Headlight upgrade FJ60? (2 Viewers)

[cheeese]

You find placing them low helps you aim? I feel like placing them between bumper and headlight level makes it easier to angle the cutoff to intersect a flat road at the edge of the beam, vs if they're lower it's harder to find that point because the angle is shallower to start with.

 

[caladin]

Where did this rumor start that I’m making harnesses??? It’s popped up a couple times in the past week

Don't you sell a dongle to fix the hibeam on koito harnesses, or do I have you mixed up with another?

I think that's what he's talking about.

Op, you can get a pretty good improvement just getting a ground switched harness that runs bypassing the stock wiring.. They sell them for led and in various wiring gauge... If you go incandescent, get a heavier one... Toyota wiring is thin and old. You'll get way more power to the beams... With the new harness. That's basically the koito upgrade, but koito is nicer quality and has good headlights lights included .

Myne was cheap Amazon.

On mine everything worked great except the hibeam light in the dash.... The dongle fixed that. But I went LED. No reason it wouldn't bring up you stock lights back to new brightness

 

[ntsqd]

You find placing them low helps you aim? I feel like placing them between bumper and headlight level makes it easier to angle the cutoff to intersect a flat road at the edge of the beam, vs if they're lower it's harder to find that point because the angle is shallower to start with.

Placing them low means that I can set them to reach further out before they become a problem to on-coming drivers. That shallow(er) angle works to my advantage.

 

[Beehanger]

Don't you sell a dongle to fix the hibeam on koito harnesses, or do I have you mixed up with another?

I think that's what he's talking about.

Op, you can get a pretty good improvement just getting a ground switched harness that runs bypassing the stock wiring.. They sell them for led and in various wiring gauge... If you go incandescent, get a heavier one... Toyota wiring is thin and old. You'll get way more power to the beams... With the new harness. That's basically the koito upgrade, but koito is nicer quality and has good headlights lights included .

Myne was cheap Amazon.

On mine everything worked great except the hibeam light in the dash.... The dongle fixed that. But I went LED. No reason it wouldn't bring up you stock lights back to new brightness

Did you buy a harness for your koiti on amazon? if so which one? My koiti is slightly above average

 

[CruiserTrash]

Did you buy a harness for your koiti on amazon? if so which one? My koiti is slightly above average

The Koito kit comes with a harness in the box, hence it’s called a “kit”. Why would you need to buy another one?

 

[ntsqd]

I don't recognize the relays used in the Koito harness, are they a std Toyota part?

And for those pondering going with the Koito kit, it appears that the fuse holder assembly has room for a spare to each fuse.

 

[caladin]

I was cheap on this, the problem I was fixing was the headlight wiring under the dash getting uncomfortably hot, so I got a cheap harness on amazon and a cheap set of round led headlights. I wasnt' sure I'd like them, so i got the cheapest one i thought would work, and it's been adequate to the job.

They are not great, buy they worked, taking load off my original wiring.

We' have several ranch trucks too, with similar setups, and my fj40 is running one as well, but older.

It's one of these two harnesses, can't remember which, think it's the first one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9QQMMH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6W1PMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solved my "holy crap that's hot" problem on the cheap, and it's got way more light. I bought cheap LED 7" rounds as well.
Then threw on a cheap 20"+ light bar for when I need lots of light.

From what I've read here, the Koito is a better harness than my cheap amazon ones, which is what I'm trying to convey.
Cruiser Trash's(?)' dongle fixed the "no dash hibeam light" problem for me on my fj60.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I was cheap on this, the problem I was fixing was the headlight wiring under the dash getting uncomfortably hot, so I got a cheap harness on amazon and a cheap set of round led headlights. I wasnt' sure I'd like them, so i got the cheapest one i thought would work, and it's been adequate to the job.

They are not great, buy they worked, taking load off my original wiring.

We' have several ranch trucks too, with similar setups, and my fj40 is running one as well, but older.

It's one of these two harnesses, can't remember which, think it's the first one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9QQMMH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M6W1PMK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solved my "holy crap that's hot" problem on the cheap, and it's got way more light. I bought cheap LED 7" rounds as well.
Then threw on a cheap 20"+ light bar for when I need lots of light.

From what I've read here, the Koito is a better harness than my cheap amazon ones, which is what I'm trying to convey.
Cruiser Trash's(?)' dongle fixed the "no dash hibeam light" problem for me on my fj60.

Glad the HBIM worked for you!

With the Koito harness installed it's pulling power directly from the battery, and it relegates the original wiring to a low-current application that just switches the Koito harness relays. It's been a minute since I've looked at the original wiring diagram, but I believe the stock relay is in the driver's footwell so there would be high current draw happening through wires under there in the normal un-modified configuration. But, like I said, the Koito harness solves that. Hot wires is usually going to be either something with too big of a current draw for that wire gauge or corrosion in the wiring causing a not-normal amount of resistance. I'd maybe find a way to check a bunch of the wiring and see if there's corrosion and how bad it is. If it's in the headlight wiring, it's definitely going to be elsewhere... and you don't want to start a fire. FYI.

 

[MoaByte]

Glad the HBIM worked for you!

With the Koito harness installed it's pulling power directly from the battery, and it relegates the original wiring to a low-current application that just switches the Koito harness relays. It's been a minute since I've looked at the original wiring diagram, but I believe the stock relay is in the driver's footwell so there would be high current draw happening through wires under there in the normal un-modified configuration. But, like I said, the Koito harness solves that. Hot wires is usually going to be either something with too big of a current draw for that wire gauge or corrosion in the wiring causing a not-normal amount of resistance. I'd maybe find a way to check a bunch of the wiring and see if there's corrosion and how bad it is. If it's in the headlight wiring, it's definitely going to be elsewhere... and you don't want to start a fire. FYI.

He isn't wrong. If you run into trouble say so. If you want an early 80's perm, we can help with that or prevent it too.

 

[SQRRRL]

If you dont go with the Koito ones and want to shell out the dough, the Holley Retrobrite LED headlights have been absolutely amazing. Youll need to run a relay on them to get them to work right, i think @CruiserTrash sells a harness. They are absolutely freaking amazing and look period correct. Ive had trucklites in the past and these are miles better and look like normal old school headlights. Ive had mine on my truck for a few years now with no issues

I agree with the Holley Retro Bright. They work great. I had the Kioto upgrade prior.

 

[EasternYeti]

I agree with the Holley Retro Bright. They work great. I had the Kioto upgrade prior.

We’re the Holleys plug and play? Curious how guys on here got around the reversed polarity on our trucks

Getting tired of replacing H4 bulbs and I’m on my 3rd cracked light