- Thread starter
- #41
Correct our red jumper relocates the links to a safer area. To add we only recommend using the red jumper power for the links only even though its rated for much more.
Fed up with your crappy 80 series battery mount? LCP has a fix (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
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Correct our red jumper relocates the links to a safer area. To add we only recommend using the red jumper power for the links only even though its rated for much more.
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2003
- Threads
- 64
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- 4,427
- Location
- Sunnyvale, CA
- Website
- www.george4wd.taskled.com
It's not the insulating properties that I am worried about...
It's that Phil's solution is using the factory box material as a 'washer' and the cables are being clamped on either side of that 'washer'. Most likely it will be plenty secure and over time the 'washer' wont crush a little and allow a little loosening/play in the clamping force and lead to a poor connection which will then get very hot with the high currents that flow through that path.
The bulkhead pass through design doesn't rely on the plastic box for an electrical clamping path, only uses it as a mounting path for the pass thru's plastic housing. That's why it would be a good solution.
Anyhow, Phil has tested his method and has stated it hasn't been a problem so likely it won't be a problem when lots of installs are done. Just make sure you tighten down well and maybe check once a year.
Of course one could add belleville washers for good measure
cheers,
george.
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- Thread starter
- #44
See post #32 for more info on sizes.
Group 31 is physically larger than a group 34. A group 31 is the largest sized battery to fit in an 80 series.
Our bracket is 7" wide and will work with your Super Start 34EXTJ battery without issue.
Hey Phil, any issues with the bolt loosening up or having to be re-tightened in the 5 years and 60K miles you've put on it?
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It's not the insulating properties that I am worried about...
It's that Phil's solution is using the factory box material as a 'washer' and the cables are being clamped on either side of that 'washer'. Most likely it will be plenty secure and over time the 'washer' wont crush a little and allow a little loosening/play in the clamping force and lead to a poor connection which will then get very hot with the high currents that flow through that path.
The bulkhead pass through design doesn't rely on the plastic box for an electrical clamping path, only uses it as a mounting path for the pass thru's plastic housing. That's why it would be a good solution.
Anyhow, Phil has tested his method and has stated it hasn't been a problem so likely it won't be a problem when lots of installs are done. Just make sure you tighten down well and maybe check once a year.
Of course one could add belleville washers for good measure
cheers,
george.
The only thing with the fancy post bulkhead terminal, is that it has a basic electrical fitting lock ring, these are ok for putting EMT or BX fittings into thin commercial/residential grade galvanized boxes, but Im not sure they will handle the vibration in an engine compartment as well.
There isn't alot of thread engagement on those lock rings and the threads are plastic on one side, much easier to strip the plastic threads and you cant torque down on them as hard either.
The galvanized metal lock ring on that is just cheap stamped metal, quite flimsy compared to a 5/16 (or whatever) nut and bolt, and your only getting a thread or two of engagement. I have stripped a few, mostly on BX or EMT fittings which are cheap pot metal or whatever.
This might be better for battery connections through a fire rated box in a fixed UPS system or something.
Plus it has two flat sides, so you should make an oblonged hole so it wont rotate, which is good I suppose, but more work, You essentially need to drill two smaller holes and take a bastard file to it if you want to make use of its purpose.
In terms of crushing the battery box material and then getting loose nuts/bolts, that might be an issue, we'll see what LCP's experience is. But it could be alleviated with washers a few different ways, by increasing the surface area under compression by putting washers against the battery box is one way, though I really really doubt it will ever be an issue. He could also overdrill and put a sleeve through with washers on the other side so it isn't under compression, but I'd probably use a nylock nut on one side and never worry about it.
If your the george that makes all the cool LED lighting, you should consider buying and selling the fusible links with a LED indicator parallel to the link, and connected under the eyelet ends, as an indicator for the links if they've popped.
I think you could get an LED with wire soldered, to reach the eyelets, and then heat shrink them on top of the loom. If a link popped you'd have a light indicating it popped. It could be easily done to the $12 factory part, and the old one could be thrown in the glove box as a spare. Kind of like the LED indicator fuses.
It would be really really easy to see if the problem was a fusible link without baring wires and a voltage tester... I think it would be a worthwhile (worth the cost) upgrade and you could retain the old one as a spare.
I'm guessing your familiar with the automotive fuses with an LED indicator, but with a fusible link..
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- Thread starter
- #47
The nuts we use are nylon lock so no reason to loosen. In addition using "L" rods through the bottom of the box there is nothing to tear to make the rods need re-tightening. When installing I tighten the rods only to the point the bracket cannot move and call it good.
Sorry to keep pestering you Phil, my comment was based on Georges comment, where I think he said there could be an issue of the battery box material compressing/deforming creating a looseness. I really can't see this ever happening, but we're just splitting hairs now for the sake of being right. Your comment about them not loosening says enough.
So although my post probably doesnt have anything of value to add, at least it bumps a thread where you are offering an item for sale...
Edit: A battery boot to cover the post more completely might be an alternative for the engine side of the box:
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- Thread starter
- #49
Sorry to keep pestering you Phil, my comment was based on Georges comment, where I think he said there could be an issue of the battery box material compressing/deforming creating a looseness. I really can't see this ever happening, but we're just splitting hairs now for the sake of being right. Your comment about them not loosening says enough.
So although my post probably doesnt have anything of value to add, at least it bumps a thread where you are offering an item for sale...
Edit: A battery boot to cover the post more completely might be an alternative for the engine side of the box:
View attachment 1886001
I always welcome and appreciate positive feedback.
With most any battery set Up you have live voltage potential somewhere so I see the bolt as the same. If anyone feels the voltage potential is dangerous by all means address it to make them comfortable. My view may be slanted by having worked with high voltage most of my working life. The kind that you only get to touch once grounded and you die. Also Anyone reading this don’t stick your hand in the fan when the engine is running.
Thank you! Order placed.
- Thread starter
- #51
- Thread starter
- #53
Thanks Phil.
Wow you and USPS are fast! Looks like a super solid install with extra heavy duty cables.
- Thread starter
- #54
Some of the new stock ready to ship
Just wanted to say thanks Phil. Got my order last week. Haven't had time to install yet but I'll post some photos once done. I bought all new cables, battery tray/box, fuseable link and link junction box just to get it all done at the same time. Also thanks for the lifesaver mints too. Best smelling land cruiser parts by far.
- Thread starter
- #56
Required holes template reminder - A PDF of the Template is located on the page of our site. Download the PDF and print ONLY off the DL for accuracy.
Excellent! I was just looking for this.
And FYI - you might want to check the URL in your signature. One to many "u"s in there.
- Thread starter
- #58
Hole PDF template also on the Battery Bracket page
Download template and print for best accuracy. Printing without DL'n has proved to be not accurate.
Download template and print for best accuracy. Printing without DL'n has proved to be not accurate.
Thanks for a great kit Phil. Updated both batteries. One thing for the dual battery folks, I found that I had to remove the coolant overflow tank bracket (3x 10mm nuts) from the passenger side of the truck in order to move forward the overflow tank about 20mm so that I could get it all to fit properly. I’m running two group 27’s. Also, I did not use the fusible link relocation part as intended because I had already de-stressed the fusible link cable using a different method.
Phil do the stock cables need to to modified to run a group 31 battery with this kit ?
