Cutting out the sound (1 Viewer)

[Degnol]

I used that stuff on the sides of the firewall where the kick vents are. But have you ever tried to get it off? That stuff sticks like nothing I have seen before

I misunderstand......do you like it or not? I think it is great stuff. I had to remove a bunch of it when repairing floor pans on my 3.0CS. Claudia, the (other) Krauts evidently like it

Ed

 

[lavarunner]

using a real rubberized bedliner in the tub.. NOT a two part epoxy but a 1/4 thick rhino/line-x what ever linner.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Unfortunately, the 40/45 Series trucks are noisy beasts! The lack of aerodynamics along with being upwards to 45 years old means there are plenty of rattles and squeeks and wind noise; plus these trucks were designed in the 1950s, and were intended for cross-country travel, not high-speed driving!

I bought my FJ40 here in Seattle from a guy who had driven it out here from Kansas. He had used regular house carpet insulation underneath the factory rubber mats to cut the noise. This may work alright in dry areas but out here it holds moisture really badly (as I discovered when removing the gas tank two months after buying the rig!)

I like being able to get the interior wet than let is dry throughly; part of the appeal of a true "utility vehicle" in my opinon.

Regards,

Alan
Seattle

 

[DSRTRDR]

Ed,

I liked it for ease of application and fit, and for effect of noise reduction. I didn't like the idea of how difficult it may be to get off if I were to ever attempt a purist restoration. That's why I didn't use spray glue for the foil insulation stuff either, but went with heavy duty carpet tape.

 

[albee]

I have some stuff that I think would work well. It is 1/4" of closed cell foam with a sheet of alum in the middle. The alum will bend to fit all of the corners of the cruser floor. It is used as an insulator when you put radiant heat under a concrete slab. The alum is to reflect the heat back up into the slab.

 

[Gregor]

In addition rhino lining or similar coating on inside of tub, using rubberized undercoating on your tub & inside of fenders will help a little. Your cheapest & best bet would be 2 cotton balls wedged in your ears .

Good luck.

 

[65swb45]

I bought some stuff called "Q-Pads". They look a lot like roofing material, have a self adhesive side and can be painted. They came(when I bought them several years ago) in 12"x12" and 18"x18", and maybe 12"x24". You can cut them to any shape with an Exacto and if you heat them with a heat gun, they will conform to almost any form. Installed properly without voids and painted, I think I would have no problem hosing out the '40 and not worry about wicking or trapping moisture.
Later cruisers came with something similar.

.02
Ed

Can you post a link Ed? I'd like to take a look at this stuff. TIA

 

[Ethan]

Anyone put new body mounts on and have an improvement? Thought that might help but I don't know. Mine are old and shot.

 

[coiled40gary]

I went the rubberized bedliner route on mine, inside and underside of the tub. I don't have to worry about water being trapped against the body. I also took out the original pads between the gas tank and floor. Luckily I caught it soon enough, but still had to clean up some rust where the pads were, on both the tub and the tank. I cut some lengths of thick mountain-bike tire inner-tube to use as the pads under tank.

gary

 

[Degnol]

Can you post a link Ed? I'd like to take a look at this stuff. TIA

As I said, I bought these several years ago, but this looks like the same thing.
I know what the package looks like, but they post no pic in this ad.


http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/fib116.html

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=30816


And there are no doubt other vendors.


As Cousin Eddie sez, "It's a quality item, Clark"

Ed

 

[DSRTRDR]

And there are no doubt other vendors.

Summit, JC Whitney have it in their catalogs, and Jeg's as well IIRC. Pricey if you were to do an entire cruiser........

 

[Heartworm]

dealing with rattles

I would be interested in hearing how you deal with various rattles. For example, how do you stop the seat belt retractor from rattling. I have not taken it apart and would not want to do anything that would prevent it from doing its job in a collision.

 

[Degnol]

Ed,

I liked it for ease of application and fit, and for effect of noise reduction. I didn't like the idea of how difficult it may be to get off if I were to ever attempt a purist restoration. That's why I didn't use spray glue for the foil insulation stuff either, but went with heavy duty carpet tape.

Claudia, if the stuff is either really cold or heated with a heat gun, it will come off.
Cold it will chip off, and with a heatgun, judiciously applied, it will come off without turning to a gooey mess. When I removed it from my BMW the metal underneath was pristine. You really don't need to cover an entire panel, just enough to dampen the resonance. If you ever see a pic of a late('80-83) FJ40, it is applied by the factory(I think).

Ethan posted about using a roofing product, and that would be a LOT cheaper and do the same thing. The only difference would be the PSA that is on the "Q Pads". I know the industry makes a product for valleys and low pitched roofs to guard against ice dams and it is a Bitumenous product that has a PSA on one side.
Painted, it looks very facto.

Ed

 

[Ethan]

I also thought about Ducting insulation that was used at work. It looked kinda like fiberglass only less mess. It would be good for under the hood and Its fire resistant. It looked a lot like what was under my parents 4 runner's hood. I helped make an antenna chamber at the last job I worked at which used a carbon impregnated foam. That stuff was great. It was ment for absorbing microwave freq. but work for audio as well. It was a lot though.