I don't know anything about turboing gas engines. Is it kosher to waste gate just one cylinder bank and not both simultaneously?
Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (1 Viewer)
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Good question.
The crossover tube (the small one in front of the oil pan sump) is bridging both exhaust manifolds so the wastegates are on "both" per say, this is really not ideal placement for a lot of wastegate flow, so I did two gates vs one. Two of these 44mm gates is a lot of gate for this setup (stock camshaft, not crazy engine displacement or compression ratio) so it should be ok hopefully. The goal once I get some sort of boost control on here is a very linear and controllable 4-6lbs across the whole RPM range.
Ideally they would both be on the passenger side manifold that the turbo is bolted to, where the highest concentration of exhaust energy is. I didn't have room with my shock mount/wheelwell.
For now I'm putting the lightest springs they come with in and hopefully it doesn't creep as I still have stock fuel system, injectors, ECU etc. If it does I'll just pull the fire rings out and then it shouldn't make anything.
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tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Oh lord skinny pedal gonna be real dangerous now
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Tonight’s progress.
Got a replacement window installed (already tinted too!), and got my transmission and T-case/double removed for refresh.
With work and shop stuff I didn’t get started till 8pm tonight. Locked up at midnight for the fourth night this week. I am exhausted.
Nv4500 is getting a new third gear syncro, new input shaft, and a short shift kit, t case is just getting gaskets I think, and doubler has a leaky input seal.
Hopefully get everything back in the truck tomorrow night and get back to welding all the new piping up.
Engine also needs oil pan gasket done and turbo drain welded in, rear main, and can sensor and valley cover. Basically there is oil everywhere and hard to tell where it’s coming from so I’m just doing everything.
Got a replacement window installed (already tinted too!), and got my transmission and T-case/double removed for refresh.
With work and shop stuff I didn’t get started till 8pm tonight. Locked up at midnight for the fourth night this week. I am exhausted.
Nv4500 is getting a new third gear syncro, new input shaft, and a short shift kit, t case is just getting gaskets I think, and doubler has a leaky input seal.
Hopefully get everything back in the truck tomorrow night and get back to welding all the new piping up.
Engine also needs oil pan gasket done and turbo drain welded in, rear main, and can sensor and valley cover. Basically there is oil everywhere and hard to tell where it’s coming from so I’m just doing everything.
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Last night’s progress. 3rd gear syncro has been shot in this NV4500 since I got it (I bought it from a salvage yard in 2020 after my hodge-podge homebrew one locked up on the way home from the Rubicon). Decided now would be as good a time as any since I had everything apart.
Unfortunately that requires pretty much a full tear-down, the bearings all looked great so I just replaced 3rd and 4th gear syncros, as well as everything related to the input shaft (input thrust bearing, input pocket bearing, and main input roller bearing) since it had had the pilot bearing failure. Overall only $150 or so in parts there which is nice as I wasn't interested in investing very much in this unit.
I also swapped the input shaft and front retainer to the GM version. So now this NV4500 is GM on the front side, and still Dodge Light-duty tailhousing and output shaft.
I also got the turbo drain welded into my oil pan, and replaced pan gasket, rear main, valley cover, cam sensor o-ring, and tightened up my oil pressure sensor which was loose. There was just oil everywhere and hard to tell what exactly was leaking, a lot of bolts were just finger tight, we think from extra vibration from the bad motor mounts.
Transmission reinstalled with new bellhousing, matching GM pilot bearing, and internal slave.
Today's project is getting the T-case cleaned up, probably swap a new input gear in, and reinstall into the truck. Need to run all new breather hoses for everything too. All of mine are shot and my friends and are thinking a lot of the oil is probably coming from all the open breathers on top of the trans/T-case
Unfortunately that requires pretty much a full tear-down, the bearings all looked great so I just replaced 3rd and 4th gear syncros, as well as everything related to the input shaft (input thrust bearing, input pocket bearing, and main input roller bearing) since it had had the pilot bearing failure. Overall only $150 or so in parts there which is nice as I wasn't interested in investing very much in this unit.
I also swapped the input shaft and front retainer to the GM version. So now this NV4500 is GM on the front side, and still Dodge Light-duty tailhousing and output shaft.
I also got the turbo drain welded into my oil pan, and replaced pan gasket, rear main, valley cover, cam sensor o-ring, and tightened up my oil pressure sensor which was loose. There was just oil everywhere and hard to tell what exactly was leaking, a lot of bolts were just finger tight, we think from extra vibration from the bad motor mounts.
Transmission reinstalled with new bellhousing, matching GM pilot bearing, and internal slave.
Today's project is getting the T-case cleaned up, probably swap a new input gear in, and reinstall into the truck. Need to run all new breather hoses for everything too. All of mine are shot and my friends and are thinking a lot of the oil is probably coming from all the open breathers on top of the trans/T-case
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thatcabledude
GOLD Star
You should have just put that 8speed ZF trans in. You have like 5 days.
cps432
SILVER Star
Really glad to see you finally getting back to your truck, Matt. It’s been way too long.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
The cobbler goes barefoot
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Had our club meeting at my shop today so had some major distractions and didn’t get as much done as I wanted to today.
I got the transfer case and doubler cleaned and torn down, the only issue I was really aware of was a leak from the rear cover that I mounted my second crossmember too, but after removing that and the PTO cover I noticed that the output shaft of the doubler has like .100” of thrust.
This was letting the input gear start to dig into the idler oil slinger and start to grind the case material.
Looks like this was the minor grinding noise.
I think the cause is this snap ring which is pretty loose in its groove. Still deciding what to do about it. I am out of time…
Also, my DIY input gear is still holding up!
Was planning to install a new Sumo one but now I am unsure since I have this thrust issue
I got the transfer case and doubler cleaned and torn down, the only issue I was really aware of was a leak from the rear cover that I mounted my second crossmember too, but after removing that and the PTO cover I noticed that the output shaft of the doubler has like .100” of thrust.
This was letting the input gear start to dig into the idler oil slinger and start to grind the case material.
Looks like this was the minor grinding noise.
I think the cause is this snap ring which is pretty loose in its groove. Still deciding what to do about it. I am out of time…
Also, my DIY input gear is still holding up!
Was planning to install a new Sumo one but now I am unsure since I have this thrust issue
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Hell yeah good for you... We are starting on this one in a couple months. LS3 with a little pep.
Jason
TT
Jason
TT
thatcabledude
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Geez… Steve Morris in an LC?!
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Following the build they did off a LS3. We are building the motor and turbo set up in house.
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Ok another semi-real-time update.
Sunday spent all day messing with the 203 and getting the split case cleaned up and put back together. It was absolutely filthy and I was going to run it but I just couldn’t do it. I know too much and I had to dig in.
first, the 203 output thrust issue. I had about seven potential ideas including getting crazy TIG welding the shaft to the bearing, Or shimming they snap ring, but after more disassembley I found the 203 input uses the same bearing and snap ring and that was in good shape so I just traded them. There is still some thrust but I would say it’s like 95% improved. The inout doesn’t seem to have any thrust issues with the worn snap ring up front, at least I can’t get it to by hand.
I also used a D44 pinion shim and shimmed the transfer input gear like .030” so if it does become an issue it should hopefully not contact the-t case housing. I also deleted the idler gear oil slinger as I didn’t have any spare ones handy.
Feeling relatively confident that I had at least mitigated the issue I decided to replace my DIY McNamara input gear with a legit Sumo long-spline. I also replaced the idler with a new OEM one i had leftover from a customer build. My high speed output gear bushing was roasted so I replaced that gear with a low mileage FJ62 one I had. The drive sleeve was also loose so I replaced that with new as well. I really could probably stand to put a new output shaft in this case but trying to avoid dumping money in this one as I am probably just going to put a whole new case in with 3:1 when I go 8HP70. Hopefully all this quiets everything down some for the mean time though.
Sunday spent all day messing with the 203 and getting the split case cleaned up and put back together. It was absolutely filthy and I was going to run it but I just couldn’t do it. I know too much and I had to dig in.
first, the 203 output thrust issue. I had about seven potential ideas including getting crazy TIG welding the shaft to the bearing, Or shimming they snap ring, but after more disassembley I found the 203 input uses the same bearing and snap ring and that was in good shape so I just traded them. There is still some thrust but I would say it’s like 95% improved. The inout doesn’t seem to have any thrust issues with the worn snap ring up front, at least I can’t get it to by hand.
I also used a D44 pinion shim and shimmed the transfer input gear like .030” so if it does become an issue it should hopefully not contact the-t case housing. I also deleted the idler gear oil slinger as I didn’t have any spare ones handy.
Feeling relatively confident that I had at least mitigated the issue I decided to replace my DIY McNamara input gear with a legit Sumo long-spline. I also replaced the idler with a new OEM one i had leftover from a customer build. My high speed output gear bushing was roasted so I replaced that gear with a low mileage FJ62 one I had. The drive sleeve was also loose so I replaced that with new as well. I really could probably stand to put a new output shaft in this case but trying to avoid dumping money in this one as I am probably just going to put a whole new case in with 3:1 when I go 8HP70. Hopefully all this quiets everything down some for the mean time though.
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Today I got the T-case and doubler bolted back in, hooked up the triple shifters, ran all new breather hoses for everything, ran out of welding wire halfway through welding exhaust, fixed the starter relay that got smashed putting the engine in, fixed the ignition coil bracket that was hitting the firewall (cut it off), put a new lower radiator hose in, tacked up the intake pipe, tried to bleed the brakes and clutch (fail), ordered new rear calipers, and figured out my temporary air filter (I think). I also had to shim my middle transmission crossmember since I mounted the engine a little higher then it was before.
Left to do,
-Clearance turbo manifold for spark plug wires
-install NV4500 short shift kit
-finish welding piping
-put heat sleeve on fuel and oil hoses
-replace rear brakes
-re-bleed clutch and brakes
-fill everything with fluids
-install driveshafts
-install Walmart battery
And then hope everything just works before the trip on Friday.
Left to do,
-Clearance turbo manifold for spark plug wires
-install NV4500 short shift kit
-finish welding piping
-put heat sleeve on fuel and oil hoses
-replace rear brakes
-re-bleed clutch and brakes
-fill everything with fluids
-install driveshafts
-install Walmart battery
And then hope everything just works before the trip on Friday.
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Good Work matt !
you will get er..Done in time , i know you can do it and that's all that matters .....
The person whom Applies Yellow Paint Dots to my Kustom request work without me having to ask , simply can do this eyes closed !
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you will get er..Done in time , i know you can do it and that's all that matters .....
The person whom Applies Yellow Paint Dots to my Kustom request work without me having to ask , simply can do this eyes closed !
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cps432
SILVER Star
Now, that is an ambitious weekend.
I'm interested to see how you like the short shift kit.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Yeah, me too. It seems like mine (later GM) has a pretty short through as it is.
