Caster Correction numbers.....your advice? (1 Viewer)

[Sept987]

i installed the 850J's up front and took it over to the local tire shop to get some numbers.

L caster -.68
R caster -1.11


It seems like people with your standard 2.5" lift are getting those numbers, so I am a little surprised I am not more in the negative. I am hoping I can get a "all is ok" from somebody on here before I order any caster correction parts.

Also, Slee won't have any caster plates in for a couple weeks, so I am debating between the slee 3* bushings, waiting, or getting the MAF's plates. What would you do?

As always, thanks guys!

 

[Tapage]

IMHO

slee 3° or slee caster plates .. keep it over 3° if you are going bog on tires ..

 

[BrianE]

I went with Metal Tech caster plates. When I bought them a few months ago, they had them in stock.

 

[86tuning]

Slot the holes and use washers, have the alignment done then weld the washers in place.

 

[Sept987]

Alright thanks guys

 

[sleeoffroad]

i installed the 850J's up front and took it over to the local tire shop to get some numbers.

L caster -.68
R caster -1.11


It seems like people with your standard 2.5" lift are getting those numbers, so I am a little surprised I am not more in the negative. I am hoping I can get a "all is ok" from somebody on here before I order any caster correction parts.

Also, Slee won't have any caster plates in for a couple weeks, so I am debating between the slee 3* bushings, waiting, or getting the MAF's plates. What would you do?

As always, thanks guys!

I am pretty surprised as well. What is your hub to flare measurement (front and rear)? I would expect them to be much lower with 850J's in the front.

 

[Pin_Head]

I am a little surprised I am not more in the negative. !

Me too.

Do you have caster correction bushings already installed? They are typically yellow or blue, while the OEM rubber ones are black. CC bushings won't coexist with CC plates as the tie rod will hit the control arm.

 

[Sept987]

Me too.

Do you have caster correction bushings already installed? They are typically yellow or blue, while the OEM rubber ones are black. CC bushings won't coexist with CC plates as the tie rod will hit the control arm.

It was completely stock when I got her, and I checked for blue or yellow bushings. I'm assuming they are the stock bushings over the Slee's newer blacks. I hope so anyways. Only time will tell!

 

[Tapage]

visual inspection on your control arm bushings will tell for sure .. pins on bushing are centered on the bushing ?

 

[Sept987]

visual inspection on your control arm bushings will tell for sure .. pins on bushing are centered on the bushing ?

I checked and they are dead center. I ordered a pair of metal tech plates. They told me they correct 4.5-5*. I was afraid that might be too much correction, but he told me I'd be fine.

Do you think 4.5-5* is too much? It would put me at a little over +4*

 

[supermoto]

I checked and they are dead center. I ordered a pair of metal tech plates. They told me they correct 4.5-5*. I was afraid that might be too much correction, but he told me I'd be fine.

Do you think 4.5-5* is too much? It would put me at a little over +4*

In my opinion that is better than stock, these rigs run very little castor stock. For offroad more castor is better. Most built a arm trucks run 6-9 degrees and most built I beamed trucks run even more

 

[Sept987]

In my opinion that is better than stock, these rigs run very little castor stock. For offroad more castor is better. Most built a arm trucks run 6-9 degrees and most built I beamed trucks run even more


Good to know. Thanks!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Running similar set up 850J & 863 with MT caster plates and Im at 3.5° caster = excellent road manors.

Metal tech & slees plates have exactly the same amount of correction

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Ideal real world working within the 80's limits is more than 2.5, and up to 4 is good, as long as the front shaft doesnt vibe, as you get more, or the steering arm touch the control arms.

Normally with a 16" rim, from bottom of rim to fender edge of up to 820mm height, and less than 3 deg castor will be the tailshaft limit, and steering arm to control arm clearance, without grinding the high spot off the arms for clearance.

I have gone 2 deg bushes and the washer mod 12mm, [almost 2 deg at 7mm per degree] on SNOWY [build thread coming] and I have offset king pin bearings to install, so i can run - .5 deg camber, and about another 1.5 deg castor out of those, to make it drive a little nicer on the road on bigger tyres with slinky long travel lift.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Ideal real world working within the 80's limits is more than 2.5, and up to 4 is good, as long as the front shaft doesnt vibe, as you get more, or the steering arm touch the control arms.

Normally with a 16" rim, from bottom of rim to fender edge of up to 820mm height, and less than 3 deg castor will be the tailshaft limit, and steering arm to control arm clearance, without grinding the high spot off the arms for clearance.

I have gone 2 deg bushes and the washer mod 12mm, [almost 2 deg at 7mm per degree] on SNOWY [build thread coming] and I have offset king pin bearings to install, so i can run - .5 deg camber, and about another 1.5 deg castor out of those, to make it drive a little nicer on the road on bigger tyres with slinky long travel lift.

Washer mod and 2° bushing seem counter productive. Why not caster plates with soft OEM bushing.

 

[Ozdunc]

Washer mod and 2° bushing seem counter productive. Why not caster plates with soft OEM bushing.

I found with the castor plates my tie-rod was hitting my arms at full lock. Grinding made it better but it still hit.
So I stuck a offset bushing in the rear (the wrong way) to add 1 deg of castor - which is effectively the washer mod.
I'm at +4 deg now and it drives great. And still have one OEM bushing a side - its called compromise

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Thats why

 

[landtank]

I found with the castor plates my tie-rod was hitting my arms at full lock. Grinding made it better but it still hit.
So I stuck a offset bushing in the rear (the wrong way) to add 1 deg of castor - which is effectively the washer mod.
I'm at +4 deg now and it drives great. And still have one OEM bushing a side - its called compromise

I think you meant to say "subtract 1* of caster". Raising the rear of the axle will tilt the axle forward and lower your caster.