CALLING ALL KNUCKLEHEADS - Measuring Preload, and shims (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheHardWay
- Start date
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), AlaskanWheeler pointed out that in adjusting the knuckle preload by removing one of the existing shims to get the 3.9 – 5 lb bearing preload, I may have also changed the axle center position in relation to the steering.
I would not be concerned, The thin shims are designed to be added or subtracted to adjust the preload on the knuckle.
The Bottom shim(s) is what does most of the centering.
Just like the inner pinion bearing shims define the depth of the pinion in the case and the outer pinion shims dictate preload.
The Bottom shim(s) is what does most of the centering.
Just like the inner pinion bearing shims define the depth of the pinion in the case and the outer pinion shims dictate preload.
I wouldn't be too worried. I ran into very much the same situation when I did mine - freaked out, talked to a bunch of the gurus on mud. I finally just removed a thin shim or some combination of shims to get the proper preload, bolted it up, and ran it. I haven't driven it too far (a couple hundred miles) since then - but so far, so good.
Probably too late - but I'd strongly recommend the Marlin heavy duty inner axle seals (Marlin EcoSeals). They're apparently way more forgiving than the stock Toyota ones.
Probably too late - but I'd strongly recommend the Marlin heavy duty inner axle seals (Marlin EcoSeals). They're apparently way more forgiving than the stock Toyota ones.
- Thread starter
- #4
Just to clarify for future reference - since removing the thin shim on top corrected the preload, no need to put it back in place, right? It's not hard to do, but would be time consuming, so I don't want to do it if I don't have to.
If removing a single, thin shim from the top of the knuckle provided you with the correct preload, then you should be in good shape. No need to reinstall it.
I would have been more worried if you had to remove a thick shim. You should be fine.
I would have been more worried if you had to remove a thick shim. You should be fine.
- Thread starter
- #7
WHAT A RELIEF
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
Over thinking 
. You'll be fine!
. You'll be fine!
Before I made a centering tool, I would always remove the same thickness of shims from the top and bottom, in hopes that knuckle would stay in the same position. It usually worked pretty well.
Also, x2 on the marlin seals. They allow for a lot more misalignment than stock, so it doesn't matter if your a a bit off.
Also, x2 on the marlin seals. They allow for a lot more misalignment than stock, so it doesn't matter if your a a bit off.
Out of curiosity, how thick was the 'thin' shim that you removed?
We're the shims the same between the drivers and passengers side? Only reason I ask is because when I did mine, the shims that I removed were the same combination left and right and when I measured with the sst, they were both incorrectly shimmed (significantly) and should not have been the same left and right. Someone likely did the job sometime between when Toyota did it and I did it.
We're the shims the same between the drivers and passengers side? Only reason I ask is because when I did mine, the shims that I removed were the same combination left and right and when I measured with the sst, they were both incorrectly shimmed (significantly) and should not have been the same left and right. Someone likely did the job sometime between when Toyota did it and I did it.
- Thread starter
- #11
I'll have to check tonight, but when the knuckle failed the fish scale test and passed after I removed the thin shim, my first thought was to wonder if this shim combo was f'd up by one of the two POs? Reinstalling the shims as found automatically assumes they're correct, but without the SST, how do you know?
I guess you find out when the back side gets covered in gear oil again
. If you used Marlins seals you may be OK.
. If you used Marlins seals you may be OK.
- Thread starter
- #14
I meant to ask you, where to buy the Marlins? I checked the usual vendors, don't see Marlins listed for my year.I guess you find out when the back side gets covered in gear oil again
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
Marlin Crawler's website.
I'm also curious about the "thin" shim you removed. I always try to be as accurate as possible when doing technical work, however, if it's the 0.008 shim you removed to achieve the pre-load that is easily within the margin of error when the average person is measuring the distance between the scribe marks on the centering tool.
And since the shims generally come in a standard selection of thicknesses, you can not get it exact unless you cut your own from shim stock. (I didn't take it that far)
- Thread starter
- #19
Ruh Roh. Memory failure (again!). I removed the thick shims, not the thin shims. Crap. Think I better go back in and swap em' out. Neither the originals nor the shims that came with Kurt's kit are marked, but none of Kurts are as thick as the originals I removed.
reddingcruiser
Practicing for retirement
Man! Sounds like you need the knuckle centering tool, unless you have a photographic memory and are sure everything was correct when you took it apart the first time. Also, do you have a digital caliper so you can identify the shims and do the math required?
Good luck
Good luck
