Builds CA18Sean's HJ75 Troopy - Build & Restore Thread (1 Viewer)

[ca18sean]

Charles' artwork aside I do like your solution......

I don't think I'd bother with a CDN speedo head at this point...

Thanks Dan! It's working decent. The thickness of the additional speedometer face sandwiched on top of the original is causing the needle to rub and catch a little bit while I'm driving. I just need to pull it apart and bend the needle slightly upwards with a heat gun.

 

[ca18sean]

Two boxes of goodies arrived from Beno and Ward. Going to try and get the front and rear axles rebuilt over the weekend

 

[ca18sean]

I've been too busy with working on my 4Runner to touch the Troopy lately, but I will get back to her soon! I did find weld-in rust repair patches from a seller in Australia, I think I will go with them for ease of installation. Welding is something I can do relatively well, panel forming however isn't something I've ever done. Hopefully there isn't a ton more rust that I can't see. I will be media blasting the entire truck to find and repair all the rust soon Any suggestions? I'm considering using a mobile dustless blasting outfit here in town. Pricing seems to be in the $1k range... thoughts on dustless blasting and the weld-in repair panels? Anyone ever had this done?



Here's the replacement panels if anyone is interested. I haven't had them quote me a shipping cost yet, but the pricing seems pretty reasonable (strong USD->AUD helps).

Toyota Landcruiser 75 Series Troopie Rear 1/4 Panel

Toyota Landcruiser 75 Series Roof Rust Repair Panel

Toyota Landcruiser 75 Series Door-Wheel Arch Rust Repair Replacement Panel

And I'm considering getting a new door skin as well. Mine is pretty dented up. Might be able to salvage it, guess we'll see

Toyota Landcruiser 75 Series Door Skin Rust Repair Replacement Panel

 

[broth9640]

Are you removing the body from the frame? If your going to blast the whole thing I would definitely take the body off so you can deal with the underside. I would also look into having the whole body dipped. That way all the rust in the seams, nooks and crannies will be removed. Once you pull rusty panels you will find rust behind and in the seams. You will need to blast those areas before welding on the patch panels. Otherwise the rust will come back. This is why dipping is the most effective way to completely remove rust. Just make sure the body is completely dry in the seams after the dip before you spray it with a good epoxy primer.

 

[broth9640]

I just flipped back through your pics. It looks really clean. You sure you need to blast it or dip it? One other piece of advice. Do your rust repair, welding first then dip or blast it. That way when it's done you can just hit it with primer. Other wise you will have to clean off all the mess from welding before you prime it. One less step.

 

[ca18sean]

I wasn't planning on pulling the body. There's no floor rust that I've found yet. Mostly bottom of the fenders, around the windows, and some near the roof gutters. It's all pretty minor. Nearly identical to the rust found in this guys write up...

Waingaro October and Drags 263.jpg

I guess I'm on the fence about just spot grinding and chasing the rust versus blasting the entire body so I can see exactly what I'm getting into...

 

[broth9640]

Do you have a compressor? Buy a HF pot blaster and just spot repair it.

 

[ca18sean]

I do, I've heard of issues with soda blasting reacting with paint. What type of media would you recommend?

My 4Runner had light rust that I removed with a wire wheel and flap disk, but it was less than 6 inches on top of each rear fender. Seems like that would be very time consuming on a larger scale.

 

[broth9640]

I used aluminum oxide. Worked like a charm. I removed my tub and had it blasted professionally. I used my pot blaster to clean behind in and around where I did metal work.

 

[ca18sean]

Picked up this little Hobart 135 last week with a bad PC board for $100 on Craigslist. Added a cart and a bottle/regulator and ordered a new board from Miller for $100, and put together a nice little home setup for cheap. Even came with a newer Miller MIG torch. Gonna do my sheet metal repairs with this. Still have my go-to Miller 252 at my shop for more serious stuff, but it's nice to have something at home too 110v so I don't need to steal the 220v plug from my air compressor or add any additional plugs in the garage either! Pretty happy with my find.

 

[ca18sean]

Tech question... Why do I have 3 temp sensors?

Two on the thermostat housing. One pre thermostat, one post. I believe this wire goes to my dash temp gauge. Does it matter which one I use? Why would there be two sensors but only one wire?

Third one in the background of the first pic. I believe this one runs temp related functions in the engine bay.

Thanks in advance. Also I just found an old post with a 2H wiring diagram so I'll be checking that out as well.

 

[ca18sean]

Almost forgot, thanks for the advice on the blasting broth. Picked up this little guy a couple weeks ago. Haven't used it on the cruiser yet but I have blasted stuff around the shop and it works great. I think it will be perfect for the spot rust repair I need to do.

 

[ca18sean]

Looks like there should only be two temp senders according to the FSM. One for the instrument cluster, one to control the glow plug timer. Not sure why there's three on my truck. Maybe I can use it for an aftermarket gauge...

 

[1tontoy]

The truck probably has superglow and AC?
1 sensor for temp guage (lower sensor on tstat housing)
1 sensor for superglow (sensor on head)
1 sensor for AC idle up (upper sensor on tstat housing)

 

[ca18sean]

Ah! There it is. I'm not seeing a third one in the FSM but it does have AC. And glow plugs? Is that what superglow means?

 

[1tontoy]

Yeah, superglow is the glow plug (pre heat) system on the later model 2H's (I think other later model Toyota diesels use a similar setup).
The superglow system has a short glow time for initial pre-heat (when you turn the key the light comes on for only a few seconds) , but will apply heat even after the engine is running (called afterglow) if it senses cold but will not activate the light in the dash. I think the afterglow is at a lower voltage than the pre-heat.

 

[ca18sean]

No huge progress to report. Finally finished my 4Runner, so I can dedicate my time to the Land Cruiser!

I did remove the front fenders and grille to do some rust repair. Also pulled off the TJM bumper to fabricate a winch mount and get it sprayed with black bedliner. Put it on jack stands and pulled the wheels in anticipation of the axles rebuilds I will be starting soon

Also picked up some centramatic wheel balancers. I'm interested to see how well (or not well) these work.

They will require spacers on the front to clear the brake calipers. I may run spacers all around just because I like the look of wheels pushed out slightly.

 

[ca18sean]

Started work on the front fenders today.

Removed the previous owners glued and riveted patch. Sand blasted everything.

Cut out the rust with a plasma cutter. Need to run to the steel shop and grab some sheet metal now. More pics later

 

[ca18sean]

One more. Looks like 18 gauge to me.

 

[ca18sean]

Primed with weld through primer any areas I can't get to later.

Cut out a new piece using my template. Hammered and bent it until it fit like I wanted, tacked it into place.

After grinding. Man there's a lot of old paint on these fenders!

Is it perfect, no. But it's definitely better than it was

I will go back with some body filler and sand the entire fender later. I wanted to get primer on it so it won't rust for the week I'm on vacation.

Also fixed the edge where the inner fender liner attaches too. Didn't take as many pics of that. Filled in holes and rust pinholes that I found while blasting too. Pretty happy with my results.