Bad #2 Piston & Cylinder. Now What? (1 Viewer)

[80please]

First post on Mud

Great thread so far, can't wait to see it running!

As far as the EGR goes, by circulating exhaust into the air-fuel mixture it helps to reduce combustion temps, preventing NoX (nitric oxides) - the stuff that makes smog look brown. The catalytic converters don't reduce this type of emission, as they mostly reduce hydrocarbons through catalysis (chemical conversion). My '96 4runner didn't come with an EGR system and still passes California smog, so you should be ok without it. Besides lower emissions, by reducing combustion temps it also helps with pre-detonation/knock (lean afr, high compression, etc...), although probably not as much as high octane fuel or water/meth injection.

Best of luck with the rest of the build!

 

[jcarter]

Desmog & remaining work

Desmog: How would it reduce "combustion temps"? I'd assume "exhaust gas" has less combustible stuff than "air" since it already blew-up. Do the exhaust gasses not combust or blow-up with the rest of the fuel air mixture, in other words, is just along for the ride? It should still expand with heat, but maybe not combust. Intersting info! I've got new EGR stuff, so not taking off any time soon.

3mm hoses: Forgot a couple of things to do. One of my small hoses with a spiral on it that goes to the EGR somewhere is like goo. I blew through it, but if it's vacuum, I'll bet it colapses easy. I've got 1new small hose I'll use to replace it.

Also, need to bypass one metal tube that goes on the air chamber that is clogged/broke/has a piece of drill bit blocking it too. I think I'll got to the parts store and find the smallest diameter metal tube I can find, bend it around, and ziptie it near the other tubes for a bypass. That will be interesting. . .

Tonight is to finish the trans cooling connections at radiator, install the battery & air filter box. My goal is to finish up the engine compartment with ONLY exhaust pipes & oil pan left since these 2 feats will require a buddy.

Antifreeze: I've read some "toyota red" arguments. I've been running peak or whatever in it. I'd like to not have to order it on-line. Can anyone save me some research time and give me some advice?

 

[jcarter]

Status Pics

 

[jcarter]

Final List!

Almost there! I actually cranked her over a few times last night. I probably should have unhook the gas or disconnected the ECU (read that somewhere, but don't know how) before I cranked her, but she cranked and sounded AWESOME!

Final list:

• Fan Shroud (hint: follow FSM about installing radiator. I left the fan shroud off and needed to take battery back out, fan off, realized belts loosen or off to get fan back on, shroud is in, but now have to mess with belts & reinstall battery)
• Oil cooler hose
• Tune-up (wires, rotor, dist. cap)
• Tie Rod
• Front grill
• Antifreeze & distilled water

I should be done by the end of the weekend.

Question:
Like I said before, one of my vacuum pipes clogged and I needed to bypass. I looked at the vacuum chart on the hood and it seems the R hose from the EGR goes to a tube (clogged, to be bypassed), then to one of the vacuum lines at the throttle body. In pic it's the hose nearest with the writting on it. Any vacuum gurus know if this is correct?

 

[jcarter]

Exhaust Woes

2 years ago I bought new cats with pipe to manifold. It was a pain, but I got them on (sort of).

During this project, I had to take out the exhaust manifold. Trying to get the pipes back on the exhaust manifold was a PITA!!! After some prying & ratchet strapping to pull, I got them on. One pipe is pretty firmly seated, the other is about 1/8" away and I can see the gasket. I've torqued the nuts about as far as I feel comfortable or if I keep cranking it down, I'm afraid I'll bust off the studs.

I antisiezed the studs really well before installing the nuts. Also, I do not have the "supports" on. It's tight, I MEAN TIGHT! Like it's a solid pipe with no flex at all from the engine out.

Hopefully it's not too noisy and I can break in the engine, then I'll bring it to an exhaust place to get it properly fixed.

If any exhaust pipe geniuses want to give a little advice, I'm all ears.

 

[jcarter]

Accelerator cables

While installing the cables, I put 3-in-1 oil on the cable end and slid them in & out for a little lube.

Installing the cables at the cruise control was pretty easy. As was installing the one cable with the bead (toward front at throttle body). The other cable toward the back at the throttle body was tricky and just didn't feel right. I installed it, took it back out, looked at it, and reinstalled. Something just doesn't feel right.

I'll get a pic later and maybe post a new thread.

Again, anyone who has done this before and would like to give some pointers, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[jcarter]

Backing up this weekend

Belts & hoses:
I took out the battery tray, fan, & fan pulley. I need to slow down and figure out the belts & hoses.

As I previously said, my buddy works for a belt & hose manf and sent me a bunch of free stuff. I figured as things came off I'd know where they go. BAD IDEA. I printed off info from the manf website and am going to get it done right.

Belts are just plain confusing. FSM is not much help. I'm going to think through it and post a new thread on how it works. I think most people don't want to look stupid and post something like this, but my social filter is broke and I look stupid often!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

JCarter-You are not alone. The routing of the belts in a 3FE is confusing. It took me a couple of tries to get the logic of the belts tensioners and the bolts that hold everything tight.

 

[jcarter]

Belts

Cruiserdrew,
I put a new thread "Belt Confusion". I did my best to make everything as clear as possible and will use it next time I have to deal with belts.

Getting to the bolts to tighten is a PITA! Then I had to tighten the fan bolts. Used my largest crescent wrench.

 

[jcarter]

Tie Rod reinstall - bad nut hint

You have to take off the tie rod to get the oil pan off. Unless there's a trick, you'll tear up the rubber grease holding grommet. I bought a new gromment form "Trail Gear". I filled with grease and it went on pretty easy.

So I put a nut on one side, went on well. The other side started turning the bolt. I realized the threads at the castle were a little off. I brought it to the other side and realized the other side's bolt won't spin because it's tapered and stuck in the hole.

Swapped nuts and got it done.

 

[jcarter]

Done, but won't start

Depressing afternoon: My wife and kid came out with a camera. I jumped in the front seat like I was getting into a limo to go to prom.

Chicka, Chicka, Chicka, but no VROOM.

Aw crap #@#@@ and some other choice words.

After some poking and other stuff, I think it's the distributor. I'm going to check my tune-up and distributor position. Also the gaps per the FSM.

I already tried adjusting the timing back and forth while trying to start it, to no avail. Hopefully it's something simple. It sounds or feels like it is something simple. I hope it is.

Rough, rough day! I had a whole day available and only 1/2 day of work to finish. I thought for sure today was it.

I'm a sad, sad man!

Joe

 

[jcarter]

AFM 2-screws from hell! Don't do it!!!

I posted another thread trying to figure out why it won't start. During the discussion, I mentioned I "unscrewed 2 screws for the AFM and pulled out, a bunch of tinfoil, hi-tech looking stuff was on the end, so I pushed it back in and screwed it on." Turns out I tore up my AFM (Air Flow Meter). New one is $750!

WOW! WHY DID THEY PUT THOSE 2 SCREWS THERE BECKONING IDIOTS TO UNSCREW AND PULL? WHAT ARE THE 2 SCREWS FOR?

Found a used one for $100 and am waiting for it to arrive, impatiently that is, sent from AZ on Wed morning, still not in MO on Sat.

BIGGEST MISTAKE YET! DON'T DO IT! "But Joe, I can hear them calling 'please unscrew me. . ' ". It's like the Sirens on the Island, don't do it!

 

[jcarter]

Just to be clear, the evil 2 screws hold in an electrical connection to a metal part between your air filter and air plenum (corrugated, ~3" diameter rubber tube).

 

[jcarter]

Figuring out the $$$$$$

View attachment expenditures expenses.pdf
View attachment ITEM expenses.pdf

I think I'm around the $2,500 for overall cost of project. I'm sure this would have been an additional $2,000 for full re-machining of block.

Also, please realize I'm not DONE! Not starting already cost me $100 for used AFM. What if something else bad (coil, distributor, etc).

I think $3,000 is a good "not to exceed" budget for the project.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is at least the second time someone has mentioned this problem of permanently messing up the AFM without even meaning to.

Good job. I'll bet with a new AFM it starts right up.

 

[jcarter]

What I should have Added/Excluded

Exclude Oil Pump: Some of this is just bad luck in the fact that mine had a screwed up "female" which is probably not going to happen to you. I HAD to take out the distributor which may have screwed up the ignition system. I was told this was a good "while you're there", but I have my doubts.

Add Fan Clutch: I found some info on "blue fan clutch" but I thought it was a Z engine deal (1993+). Later research tells me I should have cleaned and new oiled it. It's a PAIN getting this out (belts & radiator shroud).

Add vacuum hoses: I'm getting a bit impatient to get it back on the road as winter is fast approaching. I wish I would have taken the time to replace all those little vacuum hoses. Granted, this can be done at any time, but this would be a good time to do it.

Add new head bolts: I'm not too concerned about reusing the ones I have. But, would have been much more confident with new ones. I didn't price them out, but I think this would be smart.

Add replace exhaust manifold studs/nuts: When you take your head to a machine shop, take in your exhaust manifolds for new studs/nuts too. My exhaust is too tight. There isn't much flex in the system so the engine can wiggle with throttle. I'm probably going to have to bring it in to an exhaust shop soon.

Add painting: A lot of new parts I've installed in previous projects are already getting rusty. I think after cleaning some of the parts, I should have spray painted them.

Add large place to work & buddy: I've done ALL of this in my single car drive way near my single car garage. I recommend getting indoors with more room and tables. Also, went 3X faster with a buddy.

Add buy extra grease boots for steering: You have to remove the tie-rod to get the oil pan off. I bought new rubber boots from Trail Gear. They work GREAT! After I installed, I noticed other places where boots are squashed and doesn't seem to have any grease left. I'd get them all if I had to do it over.

That's about all I can think of. Waiting on AFM. Hopefully the AFM is all I need and won't have to diagnose my ignition system. I'm getting a lot of help on the MUD, but ignition systems are tricky and I'm not looking forward to finding issues.

 

[jcarter]

Well Cruiserdrew, I appreciate the expected fires right up, but I'm not so lucky. I started a new thread to try and figure out why it won't start. At this point, I'm fairly confident ignition is good. Checked spark at plug.

Fuel: I do not get fuel pressure on return line with B+ & FP shorted at diagnostic. So, need to troubleshoot the fuel system.

Looking at what I may have screwed up:

1. Something elec not hooked up right.

2. Injectors hooked up wrong. A hint may be to # the injector plugs prior to removing the injectors.

3. I mentioned the home-made gasket at the throttle plenum maybe it's covering or sticking on something in there that can't measure properly. I will most likely have to take this apart and trim the gasket.

4. AFM not sending correct info to ECU.

5. Hoses going to wrong spot. I looked through all the diagrams and think I have them all right, but there are a lot of hoses making it easy to plug into wrong spot.

It's starting to get cold and this project is close, but not done. I may have to punt and get it towed to a mechanic to finish it up. I'd hate to! It would be like admitting defeat, but may be required. I need it for snow!

 

[jcarter]

GOT BOOM BOOM! 3 weeks after finishing the rebuild

I haven't posted much on this thread because I couldn't get it started and began a new thread to diagnose.

AFM: Pretty quickly I got help which said if you don't get a check engine light (CEL) with the key on, your AFM (air flow meter) is bad. I bought a used one for $75 IIRC and CEL worked.

Ignition: Since I had the distributor out, I was sure it was ignition. I did a bunch of electric meter testing which is a pain and not too accurate with a $5 Harbor Freight meter. I also put the distributor in several times trying to make it look like the FSM. Finally said the hell with it and turned it one way so it was close enough. When I do the timing, I hope I don't have to turn it that way to correct the timing cause it can't turn no more. My "checking for spark" skills really suck too! One thing I did do was NOT replace the distributor if the gaps aren't right. Once of my pick-up gaps was a bit wide, so I stuck the 0.3mm (IIRC) feeler guage in the gap, loosened the pick-up hold down screws, pryed it tight to the feeler guage, and tightened it back down. FSM says to replace if gaps are off, but I'm not sure why, they seem adjustable.

Fuel: Finally after messing with the ignition for a week or so, I reread my thread. At one point someone said, "crack open the fuel line at the CSI". I had to look at where the CSI (cold start injector) was, it's the fuel pipe on the DS that is really easy to get to. So I shorted B+ and FP in the diagnosis box and loosed her up, NO SPEW. So I wanted to start as close to the fuel pump as possible which is the fuel filter. Loosened that bolt, shorted B+ and FP, SPEW! Means fuel pump is good. Followed that line, behind the head, and ends up in the fuel rail. At the fuel rail it hits the Fuel Pulsation Damper. You can't see it, so I felt it going into the Damper. End of fuel rail & Damper was wet. So I figure I didn't tighten it down properly.

BOOM BOOM: I went back to my thread to tell them and Pinhead said, "when we get a car in that won't start, we check for spark, if good we pour some gas into the air plenum (big rubber hose from air filter to intake), if it fires then we know it's fuel delivery." It's about 35 degrees outside, but I had to try it. First time wasn't so good since battery was weak, so I put battery charger on, poured a little more in, tightened air plenum, buttoned up air filter cover, got back in and BOOM BOOM!

3 weeks since I've been substantially complete and finally a glimmer of hope!

Getting to the Fuel Pulsation Damper is going to be some work, but at least I know where I'm going! Hint: TIGHTEN THE DAD-GUMMED BIG ROUND THINGS ON THE FUEL RAIL!

 

[subzali]

Glad to see you're going away from Fram filters, and glad to see you got that head cleaned up! Holy cow that thing was nasty! I've BTDT with the MAF on my '91 pickup, boy that sucked! You'll get through it though, and you'll be pretty happy with the process once you're done and driving. I still am kicking myself for not honing my cylinders when I had the head off my 2F a few years back.

 

[jcarter]

Finally started - sounds awesome!

Okay, I think I'm there. WHEW! Seems bad luck follows me:

FPD (Fuel Pulsation Damper): This is where the main fuel line fills the fuel rail. It's called a damper because it has a membrane (like a drum) in it to absorb the "waves" that occur in the rail when injectors suck fuel. I didn't do anything to it except take out and put back in, but somehow it was siezed and wouldn't allow fuel in. I bought an aftermarket, cheapo one to get it running, but am ordering it and a new pressure regulator (OEM).

HINT: WHILE YOU'RE THERE: Definietely add replacing the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) and Fuel Pulsation Damper (FPD). They are 20 years old! I'm getting new ones and plan to replace them this spring when I check my valve clearance & tighten the head bolts. You need to take off the big metal air plenum at the intake, take out the big rubber hose for space, then "rotate" the plenum up out of your way so you can get to the fuel rail. Big pain, do it while it's apart!

Yesteday's work: To continue, I finally got the FPD on. It was getting gas. It would start, but I had to keep the pedal pumping to keep it going.

Today's work: Luckily my motorhead neighbor was hanging out and came over to lend a hand. We heard a large sucking noise while I kept it running with the gas pedal. He walked around the engine, stuck his finger in a hole, smoothed out nicely.

EGR WITHOUT PLUG: I put a new EGR in it. Turns out the new ones come without a plug in it! BAD FREAKIN' LUCK! Seems in California this hole is where a fuel temp guage goes, so I guess Toyota figures ALL new ones don't need a plug cause they're ALL going to frickin' California. We found a temporary plug and put it in. Lots better. Still a frustrating deal. I'm calling Cdan tomorrow to "give him the business".

AWESOME: How much better is it running you ask? Smooth as silk! I still have a bad exhaust leak at the manifold that I'm bringing in tomorrow to get fixed, but really smooth, no "clackity clack" from the lifters, idles perfect at 650RPM, no jumping around.

So, tomorrow is Midas for exhaust issue and inspection (plates expired in August). Tomorrow night is "break-in" drive & oil change. Rest of the week will be more break-in drives, then she'll be ready for winter.

I'll update just a bit more, but so far so good with how it's running.

Thanks for tuning in.

Joe

PS For the last month, I started a new thread titled "Won't start after rebuild" that I've been in. It is actually longer than this one. Summary is bad AFM, bad FPD, bad EGR valve (plugless).