Axle advice

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Jan 30, 2012
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Location
Redwood City, CA
So I recently bought an 85 fj60. Came with a sbc swap, t400, np208 and D44 in the back for the center diff.

Heres the thing. I don't want the D44 as its an inferior piece. So now I'm looking for something to put in there. The front is still a toyota axle.

I did a search and there is an array of differnt things out there. One thing I didn't find more information on is switching a Mini truck axle.

I know its an 8" ring vs a 9.5" but the pinions are better if I am correct. Has anyone done this and how successful is it? I don't liek the look of the D60 or 14FF sticking out of the body. Its cheaper to get the mini truck axle as well.

Thoughts?
 
Buy an FZJ80 rear axle assembly, cut off the linkage brackets and narrow it on the driver's side only. That should nearly center the diff and give you rear discs with a p-brake that actually works.
 
Buy an FZJ80 rear axle assembly, cut off the linkage brackets and narrow it on the driver's side only. That should nearly center the diff and give you rear discs with a p-brake that actually works.

Aren't those A) expensive and B) hard to find?

I'm just looking for some alternatives that might work. I need dependability and hassle free stuff.
 
The only real alternatives, if you want to stay six-lug, are mini truck axles, the aforementioned FJ80 thing, and GM 14-bolt semi-floaters which start at 64" flange to flange, a good six inches wider than your front axle. You could use mini truck outers and weld in a 60 center, the shaft diameter and spline count are the same, the axle retention setup is better and you get a park brake.
 
If you get a Tacoma rear axle you should be just fine and the width will be fairly close to your front axle.

Stock mini rear axle is going to be too narrow.

If you want pumpkins to be the same front to rear, a hybrid Tacoma/LC like the mini axle that Lehi was talking about would work fine.

Or, just grab a Ford 9" and have some custom shafts made for it in six lug. Strong and whatever gear ratio you want.
 
A mini truck is almost 3" narrower. I'm not a big fan of a Dana 44 but I don't think a mini truck axle would be an upgrade especially with all the aftermarket stuff for the 44. The 44 was available with 1.31" 30 spline axle (same as the FJ60 ) It was even available with a 1.4" 32 spline. The land cruiser has a 1.1"
27 spline ( late model ) or 10 spline ( early ) pinion and the 44 has a 1.12", 26 spline pinion in most cases.
the 44 ring gear is only a touch smaller than the cruiser but a lot bigger than the mini. At best the mini axle would not be a strength upgrade unless your 44 is a pre 1970, 10 spline model. You might as well keep it until you want a real upgrade like a 14 bolt or Dana 60.
 
I vote for the 80 series stuff with time and patient .. just coz I'm Toyota purist .. meanwhile your D44 would do the job ..
 
I should of given you guys some more info. My bad. I just bought the truck and it had the D44, but the gear ratios don't match the front. I don't want to put the moola into a 44 to change gears. Hence the push to find a better axle.

I'm hoping up be in it less than 500 when i'm done (just the axle)
 
an 80 axle should be able to be had for that price. you dont have to shoten it up just get offset rims it has disc brakes you could get the e-locker and all you need to do to get the p-brake to work is put in a small piece or 1\4" steel like 1"x2" i think with two holes drilled in it. its also a ff. i got mine from a toyota junk yard for 700 with the locker and harness. the 80 axles are less offset than 60 axles and i have seen alot of people on here run them with center t-case outputs with no prob. i just think you are going to have strength issues with a mini axle on a heavy waggon with a v8.
 
In your previous post about this truck you mentioned that it was a reverse D44?

What did you mean by that? High pinion?
 
Iirc, the toyota mini rear end and the dana 44 are about equal strength wise, stock for stock,
Edit:
30 spline Dana 44 axle shafts are 1.31" in diameter.
30 spline Toyota minitruck axle shafts are 1.31" in diameter.

Dana 44 ring gear is 8.5" in diameter.
Toyota Minitruck ring gear is 8" in diameter.

so I wouldn't think they you would be gaining anything by going to the toy mini rear end. If its a high pinion dana44, that might be advantageous as the pinion is up high out if harms way. If it were my truck, I'd regear the dana 44, throw some chromoly shafts in it and call it good.

I think for the time, money and effort required to swap the rear axle out, you should do a significant upgrade, such as a Dana 60 or 35 spline Ford 9"
 
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The FJ60 front 9.5" axle is 60" WMS, Rear is 57-58" WMS. The front is wider to help with steering and keep tires away from springs while the back is narrower so that the wheels will tuck up inside the fenders and body.
The 86-95 IFS pickups 8" rear axle is 58" WMS
The Tacoma 96-04 8.4" is 60" WMS

You also have the option if you can find one of getting a axle with a e-locker in it from a Tacoma.

The 8.4" is actually an 8" but called 8.4" for it's extra strength. It has a rear axle truss on it that makes it stronger r&p so that it wont pull apart and deflect like a standard 8" or 8" e-locker axles.

Weight rating is very similar, and they are strong axles.

These are right off my 1992 22re standard cab pickup.
1992 pickup GVWR = 5350 lbs.
1992 pickup GAWR front = 2600 lbs.
1992 pickup GAWR rear = 3000 lbs.

I found some good info here on the tacomas http://www.trdoffroad.com/articles/pdf/00_tacoma.pdf
40Habits from another post gave me his info for his 04 Tacoma.
GVWR = 5104
GAWR front = 2650 lbs.
GAWR rear = 2800 lbs.

These are off my 84 FJ60:
GVWR = 5360 lbs.
GAWR front = 3065 lbs.
GAWR rear = 3220 lbs.


Many people run 8" with 35's no problem but if going to bigger tires, or because you have more HP you may want to try to find a Tacoma axle, although the hilux axle may be easier to find or cheaper. But if you are like me it just depends on what you can find when you happen to have money for it.:doh:

I have been told that : (Also: watch out on the 8.4 rear. While the 3rd is very strong, the axle housings & axle shafts are prone to bending at the flange. ) so you may want to truss and brace it a bit if you can.

If you look around the pickup sections there is a lot of info. Here is a couple I recently started to try to find some info on projects I have in the works.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...hat-largest-tire-8-9-25-axles-can-handle.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyo...ayload-gvwr-ratings-hilux-tacoma-t-100-a.html

I was looking at your other post of that monster truck you bought, hope all is ok with it and keep us posted on that build/fixes. Are you keeping is SAS or going back to spring under? Pickup axles are already spring over but I am not sure if the width of the spring perches is the same on the FJ60 as the pickups. I have been told that the 89-95 and 96-04 axles spring perch is the same and swap right across.

If I get a chance tomorrow I will measure both my FJ60 and 92 Hilux for you.........God I love having both.:flipoff2::beer:
 
Now that is one hell of a good post! Thanks for all of the awesome information.

Anybody ran a Toyota fj axle off a center transfer case? Any problems with driveline angles?

As for the Frankenstein it actually is a diamond in the rough. Clean v8 install, very very little body rust, and a beautiful interior. I got really lucky.
 
Another option is to run whatever axle you want stock (centered or offset) so parts are cheaper, and spend a bit more for a driveline with two cv joints. There is plenty of length in the rear driveline for that, and angles become a moot point.
 
i talked to dima about this.


put an fj60 axle back in there and be done with it.


georg
 
and fwiw, get rid of that 208 before it blows up and install a 241. direct bolt-in, much stronger and reliable t-case.

you should be able to source both these parts for $500 or less.

georg
 

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