rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Can I drop my tub off for some work!
Another Rear Sill repair by a novice! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OutbackBob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
Pax rear quarter panel patch update. Ugh! This was twice the difficulty to fit compared to the drivers side.
But by the time I finish this job I might know what I'm doing.
Working out of a one car garage that you can't put a car in!
But by the time I finish this job I might know what I'm doing.
Working out of a one car garage that you can't put a car in!
Hi
Beautiful work.
You can't call yourself a novice now.
Keep the photos coming.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
Beautiful work.
You can't call yourself a novice now.
Keep the photos coming.
Cheers
...via IH8MUD app
- Thread starter
- #44
Welded two dozen previous owner drilled holes.
Drilled holes for door, emblems
& tire rack hinges.
Spot welded door hinge inner nut brackets.
Got the welds ground down, getting ready for fill and paint.
Need to seal the inner side weld and joints, any suggestions would be helpful.
Drilled holes for door, emblems
Spot welded door hinge inner nut brackets.
Got the welds ground down, getting ready for fill and paint.
Need to seal the inner side weld and joints, any suggestions would be helpful.
- Thread starter
- #45
I was advised to seal all the welded seams on the inside of the quarter panels with Evercoat Maxim epoxy 822 seam sealer.
Also recommended to use their Rage Gold premium lightweight filler.
Apparently if those welds are not sealed properly moisture will eventually cause a filler failure.
So here it goes...
Also recommended to use their Rage Gold premium lightweight filler.
Apparently if those welds are not sealed properly moisture will eventually cause a filler failure.
So here it goes...
TCSTARK
Master Debater & Cunning Linguist
Nicely done! Keep up the good work!
Awesome.................impressed!
More pics???????
- Thread starter
- #49
Finally got back to this project.
Cleaned inner rear wheel welds.
Primed welds for sealer application.
Sealing the welds prevents moisture from damaging the body filler. Fortunately my next door neighbor is a retired body shop owner who is helping me along with this project.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #50
Started with body filler on the rear quarter panel patches.
- Thread starter
- #51
Still working on getting these right.
Working on getting these straight.
If only I had a air compressor that could keep up with the air orbital sander.
It claims to put out 7.5 CFM but 12 CFM is needed.
Working on getting these straight.
If only I had a air compressor that could keep up with the air orbital sander.
It claims to put out 7.5 CFM but 12 CFM is needed.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #52
Seal seam epoxy in all places where new metal meets old.
Under bed welds being prepared for primer.
Primer on under bed welds.
Primer on upper bed welds.
Seal seam epoxy applied and primed on rear sill joints.
All weld joints cleaned, primed and epoxy sealed with evercoat 822.
Under bed welds being prepared for primer.
Primer on under bed welds.
Primer on upper bed welds.
Seal seam epoxy applied and primed on rear sill joints.
All weld joints cleaned, primed and epoxy sealed with evercoat 822.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #53
Got-UR-done, ready for the paint & body shop.
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Outbackbob,
Great work...inspiring. I am making my own sill (2x2 steel) but curious on the sill cover install. The lower, under sill, lip on the sill cover- is that attached to sill or sealed? Factory appears to have a few welds below, but i don't see how you could tack that on without doing it on sill prior to install.
Thx!
Great work...inspiring. I am making my own sill (2x2 steel) but curious on the sill cover install. The lower, under sill, lip on the sill cover- is that attached to sill or sealed? Factory appears to have a few welds below, but i don't see how you could tack that on without doing it on sill prior to install.
Thx!
- Thread starter
- #55
Well it was a challenge. Cover sill had spot weld holes on the top and rear. I spot welded these to the inner sill frame.
The issue was the floor required cutting out rust from the back two inches forward.
You can see where i over head welded the floor the the inner sill frame.
All seams where cleaned, primed, epoxy sealed, primed and then painted to keep out moisture.
Next time, if one, I would have added an angle iron 1x2 16 ga to replace the rust removed flooring.
The issue was the floor required cutting out rust from the back two inches forward.
You can see where i over head welded the floor the the inner sill frame.
All seams where cleaned, primed, epoxy sealed, primed and then painted to keep out moisture.
Next time, if one, I would have added an angle iron 1x2 16 ga to replace the rust removed flooring.
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Thank you sir...good advice. I am ripping my whole floor out "while I am in there" so I will clean those corners and try to make a smaller oem-like sill cover. A bit of a puzzle 
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
Sorry for the thread revival, but wanted clarification. I am replacing the rear corners, rear bed and rear sill on my 71 FST. How should the rear bed and rear sill cover come together. Does the rear sill cover sit on top of the rear bed as the picture above illustrates? Do the two come together flush? Or does the rear bed sit on top of the rear sill cover? Thank you in advance. All replacement sheet metal was purchased from CCOT.
