Aftermarket Starter Motor Solenoid Wiring Help (1 Viewer)

[WhereToRodeo]

I recently bought a new starter motor and wired it identically the way the original one was wired, as pictured below. However, it does not engage the fly wheel but instead just creates a faint "click" sound somewhere under the hood. There are two pieces of the new solenoid that I'm unsure of what their uses are. Hoping you guys can help.

PS. Grounds are good, wires replaced for good measure, tried it with 2 different ignition switches. Starter does work when jumped between terminals with a screwdriver. Leaves me to think I have the aftermarket solenoid wired incorrectly.

 

[sggoat]

I think the wire you marked with the big yellow arrow comes from(actually TO) the coil. It provides a full 12volts to the coil upon start, bypassing the resistor that usually only supplies ~8 volts. If you had a gear reduction starter, this wire can be dead-ended and not used.
Since it appears this is not a gear red starter, it should be connected(the stock starter yanks a huge current-- I think that's why you need the 12 volt boost)
The ammeter does not connect directly to the starter.--It is connected to the pos battery terminal through the fusible link.

 

[WhereToRodeo]

I see. So you think I need to run a new wire from the coil "+" side connecting into the red wire that is pictured? And leave the empty brass flat-headed prong as is, unused.

 

[Poser]

I see. So you think I need to run a new wire from the coil "+" side connecting into the red wire that is pictured? And leave the empty brass flat-headed prong as is, unused.

Negative.


"start" wire from ignition switch to the brass spade connector.

That terminal controls the solenoid, which is what makes it engage to the flywheel.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

You can check this out pretty simply. There are four terminals, two big-two small.

The big ones carry power FROM the battery TO the starter motor. It's clear that the lower one is connected to the starter motor and therefore the other one goes to the battery positive.

One of the small ones is the solenoid control and should be connected to the ignition switch.
The other is an "output" that goes to the coil positive.

If you're uncertain which of the small ones is which, get out your volt/ohm meter and a small jumper. Run 12 v to one of the small connectors. If you've got the control wire, you should hear a "click" and it should cause the two big connectors to be shorted together (zero ohms).

 

[WhereToRodeo]

You guys -

With a complete lack of confidence based on numerous previously failed attempts at this... I went to turn the ignition switch. AND IT FIRED!!!!!!!

Thank you SO MUCH for your generous wisdom and advice! I'm ecstatic. She's running again! Thank you.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Just curious, what did you do differently?

 

[WhereToRodeo]

Ignition went to brass spade connector, wire from ammeter and positive battery cable to large middle-top terminal, and created a new connection from small right side terminal to coil "+" (although not sure what that is doing exactly). But it fired up, immediately and enthusiastically!

 

[sggoat]

No. There should be another wire close(I think it is black W/white stripe), that would connect to the spade terminal of the starter (BW from the ignitor). There should also be a black W/yellow striped wire from the ignition(through a ballast resister) to the same point. The other terminal(your red wire) should come from the ignition(Diagram shows as light blue w/red stripe)
QUOTE=WhereToRodeo;9005370]I see. So you think I need to run a new wire from the coil "+" side connecting into the red wire that is pictured? And leave the empty brass flat-headed prong as is, unused.[/QUOTE]

 

[edwjmcgrath]

No. There should be another wire close(I think it is black W/white stripe), that would connect to the spade terminal of the starter (BW from the ignitor). There should also be a black W/yellow striped wire from the ignition(through a ballast resister) to the same point. The other terminal(your red wire) should come from the ignition(Diagram shows as light blue w/red stripe)
QUOTE=WhereToRodeo;9005370]I see. So you think I need to run a new wire from the coil "+" side connecting into the red wire that is pictured? And leave the empty brass flat-headed prong as is, unused.

It certainly sounds like he's got it right this time.
What are you suggesting? It's hard to follow your post with the quote errors.

 

[sggoat]

was responding to question about running a "new" wire from the + coil, and leaving the empty brass flat prong unused--your description is the same as I see on the FSM diagram.
Sorry if I got the quotes confused in the post.