Adding a E-locker to a non E-locker 4Runner (2 Viewers)

[pillguy]

number 3 is the male plug with cut pig tail wires that will be wired into the 4 or 6 wire camper wire you buy if you do not have factory wiring. The male plug fits into the brain.
The male plug for the antilock has one extra WIRE IN IT TO TURN OFF THE ANTILOCK UNIT IF YOU TURN ON THE SYSTEM. If you used the new one, yo would have to graft wire into all those pig tails of the donor male plug fo the antiloack unit.
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I really have to thank War Dam Eagle on mud for helping me sort it out I resorted to taping bits of wirel on a piece of paper o get the general concept upndersthood Once you do this you will be elevated to zen status in the club for your accoumplishmnet

 

[vipergrhd]

I had plans of getting a rear locker for my 99 SR5 but for the most part the wife drives it and just don't really need it at this time,after reading all your post it seems that you guys went through all the trouble to get it to work like it came from the factory and there is nothing wrong with that but i had a chance to help a friend install a rear locker out of a Tacoma into a 91 4runner,we tested the solenoid to make sure it works and found to be in working order it needed 4.88 gears to run 33-35 tires we cut the old case and use the gasket as a template and everything was reused we bought a switch and harness from 12voltguy.com and the the rest is history later on we added a solenoid shield from Marlin crawler it looks like factory once it's all done.

 

[Living in the Past]

Here you go: http://www.sonoransteel.com/include...eel/TechArticles/1996-2004ToyotaGearRatio.pdf

Thanks for that link. I think that was one of the ones I've found. Mine has VZN185L GKPGKA

According to the chart 3.909 standard. 4.10 with 265/70/16 and 4.30 option.

My lay out of the tag is a little different but does have 225/75/15 listed on it. I have the standard aluminum 16" rims with 265/70/16 tires which I guessing someone matched original size tires. Build date is 8/98 but titled as 99 and owner's manual is a 99. According to the tag I should have 3.909 which is if you have smaller tires you wouldn't want lower gearing. or was it possible the 225/75/15 is listed on all tags?

Had a late model 4X series show up earlier this year which diverted my funds and attention in a different direct. Did occasionally check locally for one at local wrecking yards and CL. By chance one did show did on CL not too far away and at a fair price. Seller thought it was 4.10 gears but ring gear count is 43 so guessing it must be 4.30. Because of the confusion on the axle codes I'll have to wait until I pull it apart to be sure what I have. Still guessing 4.10.

You can also send your 3rd member to ECGS. East coast gear supply the sell rebuilt toyota e-lockers just use an old one to avoid a core charge.
Tacoma Elocker 3rd member

Not having a core too start with price is a deal killer ($665 and $550 core). It also doesn't come with a motor which is another cost just taking this out range. If mine does turn out to be a different gear set I might look at going a different route. The diff bearings and ring gear look great. Everything seems to be tight and hate to tear apart a factory assembled rear diff if I don't have too. Instead of regearing the back axle might look at switching the front to match the locker. With the independent front suspension not looking to go air locker, with a open diff I tore up one of the CV axles on my first off road outing. With a air locker might tear the diff or CV axle to bad to move and not be able to drive it home without tearing it down on the trail. A limited slip or some type of Torsen would be nice option. Just need to check to see if anything is available. If nothing else finding a 4.30 front shouldn't be too hard to find and cheap as the demand can't be that high. Somewhere in this thread someone mentioned all E-locker diffs were 4.30 gears. Wish I knew for sure this is true.

Questions
1. What is the code on the door tag for a E-locker equipped 4Runner? I know the 80 series has different code for locker non locker axles. Searching a junkyard and the rear axle is gone would be nice to know if it had a locker.
2. What is the easiest way to visually check the gears in a front diff?
3. Is the Tacoma front diff the same as a 4Runner from the same time period?

 

[Tigerstripe40]

I don't mean to hijack.
This seems like a great deal of work for an E-locker.

I personally think that the 8.4" diff is a little stronger than the E-locker diff, due to the girdled carrier bearings.
Why not get an ARB air locker?

 

[Living in the Past]

Cost and ease of installation are the two main reason. Not sure how I going to handle the gears if their different. Other then that my cost should be around $500. Already check to see if the locker engages and disengages. The ring gear looks real good and everything seems tight. Besides the cost of ARB would need to pay someone to setup the ring and pinion. Would replace the bearings at that point. Bought the 4Runner last Nov with 155K miles. Currently has 158K miles so it will not get many miles. Other then gaskets don't plan on replacing bearing as preventative maintenance. If I have to tear the diff down (ARB) I would replace bearings since I have them out. Already have Lock Rights in a LC and not going to install a auto locker in one I use to drive around town. Used E-locker seems to be the next cheapest option for a locker.

 

[Tigerstripe40]

Cost and ease of installation are the two main reason. Not sure how I going to handle the gears if their different. Other then that my cost should be around $500. Already check to see if the locker engages and disengages. The ring gear looks real good and everything seems tight. Besides the cost of ARB would need to pay someone to setup the ring and pinion. Would replace the bearings at that point. Bought the 4Runner last Nov with 155K miles. Currently has 158K miles so it will not get many miles. Other then gaskets don't plan on replacing bearing as preventative maintenance. If I have to tear the diff down (ARB) I would replace bearings since I have them out. Already have Lock Rights in a LC and not going to install a auto locker in one I use to drive around town. Used E-locker seems to be the next cheapest option for a locker.

I was under the impression that the "8.4" axle housing and the "8.0" axle housing were significantly different. From the previous posts in this thread, it seems that is not the case?