Adding a E-locker to a non E-locker 4Runner (2 Viewers)

[Living in the Past]

Is there a thread that explains what is all involved in adding a locker to a non locker model? I just picked up a 99 that I'm going let my youngest drive for a while to help her get thru ultrasound school. Long term I would like to use it as a wheeler for myself. It's a SR5, 4X4 automatic with the 3.4 V6. Doing a search it looks like the locker is a 8.4" compared to a 8" for the non locker. Which makes sense since the owner's manual shows it requiring more oil even though there is more stuff inside. Also looks like it will have 4.30 gears instead of 4.10 gears.

Questions

Does the rear locker require a separate ECU or a different main ECU? Will the current wiring harness have the plugs to add a locker? I think it should have a plug for the switch, dash light, rear axle and possibly ECU. I can see on the dash where the locker light should be. Locker switch location has Toyota security plug there now. Which is the easiest way to get around the gearing. Switch gearing in the rear axle or just switch out the front diff. It has the ADD which is working find. Guessing getting the complete rear axle is the way to go. Figure a Tacoma might be a different width and require mods to work on a 4Runner. Since I have time to gather parts looking for the easiest way to convert.

Thanks for any help.

 

[pkt1213]

Check out yotatech. All the information you could want.

 

[4x4mike]

The ring gear is the same size locker or non-locked. I've got a '99 3rd gen with a manual transmission. Most of the diffs out there were from auto 4runners that had the limited option. I ended up finding a 3rd from a Tacoma with the gear ratio I needed. Below is my write up. There are many ways to do the swap, I chose to use as many factory parts as possible which included the e locker ecu. Many don't use it but to each is own.

Cheapest way out of it is to find just a 3rd with a matching gear ratio. Modify the housing and pop it in.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/showthread.php?8389-4x4mike-s-e-locker-retrofit

 

[Living in the Past]

Thank you for the link. I hope to do it as close to factory as possible. Living in a Phoenix area I have two things going for me. One it's the desert and second it has a population of around four million in valley hopefully these will make finding clean non rusted running easier. Add into it these are getting older. There is 99 close by that had the rear locker. I called and told me the housing was broken and sold for $350. A good one they said would be $550 for the complete axle. It's a pull you own part so I may check it out and see what shape the harness is in. Like your I checked behind the driver's kick panel and there is no plug for the locker ECU. So depending on if they unplugged the locker switch (could tell by a picture it was gone) or cut it as well as the plug for the diff I may try and strip the harness complete with anything to do with the locker. How many pieces I'm unsure of. If they cut plugs and took the ECU I'll pass. A local mud member is a service director at a Toyota dealer. According to him mine has 4.10 gears. I'm hoping my 99/auto/ABS equipped will be easier to find and do a direct axle swap.

While I was told mine has 4.10 gears by the VIN do you know what code I'm looking for on the tag on the B pillar? Knowing that would make my search easier. Another thing I don't remember seeing in your thread doesn't the locker require a longer splined axle on one side like in the 80 series lockers?

 

[4x4mike]

I got my low mile 3rd member for $200. Since then the prices have sky rocketed. I recently saw a guy selling a complete, drum to drum, set up for $1000+. He had bought it and never got around to installing it.

For the housing you have two options. Modify the one you have or find an e-locker housing from a 4runner. The only difference will be the cut out for the actuator and slightly modified sealing surface. I had a non e-locker housing given to me and I was able to mod it without having the vehicle out of service for too long. Finding an e-locker housing is easy but will cost more than non. If you have time and your daughter is driving the rig find a good non-e-locker version and take your time.

In my write up the pictures of the plugs under the rear seat was more for exploration. I knew from looking under the rig there was no "wires" hanging above the rear axle going into the interior. I guess what I was looking for was a plug in where the pigtail would plug into. In the end it was no big deal. The e-locker ecu lives in the driver side kick panel. If your 4Runner did not come with an e-locker you won't have one. As far as parts yards go, you're more likely to find an ecu in an e-locker equipped vehicle than the e-locker itself.

The guy I gave my original housing to went one step, or several, higher than me. He tracked down the e-locker wiring which is much more than just the locker wires. It's a bundle that goes between the driver and the rear so it includes dome lights, etc. It's probably more time and money than it's worth, IMO.

In the end I didn't need to go as factory as I did (ecu and bits) but I do like the idea of running close to stock and have wiring diagrams I can troubleshoot with if need be. I believed I only used half of the ecu pin outs anyway.

I reused my axle shafts and anything else that unbolted from the old axle housing (brakes, breather, ABS stuff). It was an easy swap.

From what I found, and don't remember much of, 3rd gens have 4.10 or 4.30 (with the 3.4l). One is for autos the other is for manuals.

 

[4x4mike]

Another thing to consider is the age and mileage on a 3rd member. The member can be 15 years old and can have a bunch of miles. While they are great quality they may benefit from a rebuild. I was considering rebuilding mine before I installed it but it had low miles, I forget how many now, and ran smooth. If you can do gears and are setup it's money in the bank.

 

[Living in the Past]

I already looked at the 99. I saw soon cut wires where the two plugs that are standard. But I think those are the ends that go the dash. There wasn't a ABS unit under the hood but looked like it may have been removed. I should have checked to see if the front axle had sensors. The locker ECU was still there and wiring was still plugged into it. The floor trim piece was removed and looked like all the wiring was still there. Rear door don't open because of the accident. Price they wanted for the ECU and wiring going to the back was that bad. Not worth my time to make my own harness. Looks like the locker switch may have been unplugged and not cut. But what harness is that in? Same one as the light on the dash? Again at least one other harness needed. If I had a complete wiring diagram those might be easy to do. Single for the light and few for the switch. Do you know where the signal for the L4 and where the five mile speed sensor come from? Does the non locked 4Runner even have them?

 

[4x4mike]

Where you located? I've got wiring diagrams from somewhere online, they can be had easily. If I were you I wouldn't worry about getting wiring from the crashed truck. I'd get the ecu and the plastic plugs that plug into the ecu. You can see from mine I just had those, bought the RR lock switch online and used my own wire. The factory harness has much more than locker wiring and will be a ton of work to remove and reinstall.

Behind my dash were 3 or 4 plastic plugs but I have no idea where they can from or what they did. I have factory fogs so the wiring people usually find thinking they were pre-wired were actually looking at fog light wiring. As long as you have the plugs with a couple of inches of wire you just plug and play. I did NOT connect the ecu to the transfer case or ABS so I have unused ports from the ECU. I made a hand drawn wiring diagram but it's a little messy in the pictures I took.

The wiring is very easy and I'd suggest buying the pigtail if you can't get it from the crashed rig. It's the couple foot wiring that comes right off the actuator. From there I used the sprinkler wire to the get the kick panel. I ran the wiring to power, the switch, a safety switch and then the dash light. If you can make heads or tails, below are the photos.

The original drawing was done by a buddy when he did his swap. He was one of the first ever to do one back in the day. I used his method and the crossed out and handwritten items are my deviations from his setup.

 

[Living in the Past]

Replacing the harness going to the back doesn't sound that much more work then making and installing my own. Biggest pain will be removing it. Looking behind my left kick panel it's hard to tell where all the harnesses go. The harness in the junk yard has the wires cut on the side towards the back. Looking at mine I can't tell where those go without digging further and removing another white inner panel. Maybe I just could lucky but finding the locker ECU was pretty easy. Unlike the lockers in the eighties which don't show up much. What is a good price for the locker ECU? Didn't ask but guessing just taking the ECU would not be that much cheaper.

Two questions.
1. Does the locker require a long splined axle like the 80 series? Meaning besides the diff from the donor you need the long spline axle.
2. Did your wiring harness have the wires for the five MPH sensor and 4L? If so were they in the harness from the back?

I appreciate all you help. Pretty sure with just the diagrams you posted I could probably wire this up. I have pretty strong background in HVAC controls so it's not total Greek to me.

 

[4x4mike]

There are no locker or non locker axles. What you already have will work.

As far as wires there aren't any. I suppose if you get a harness it will have all the wire but in my swap I supplied the wire. On the ecu there is a pin for the speed and one for 4low. I think what you're asking is what the wire that goes to that pin comes from.

The wire doesn't come from the back but that's all I know. Later I can try to find the factory wiring diagram and that will help some. I didn't use either of those pins for simplicity. Locked 2wd is useful in places like Pismo and wet boat ramps. To avoid accidental activation I weird a safety switch.

I bought my ecu brand new and was told it was one of the last ones. I may have paid $100 but I don't remember exactly.

 

[Living in the Past]

Price of and finding the ECU isn't a big deal as long as the 4Runner, 4X4 Tacoma and 2X4 Prerunner are all the same. Interesting that there isn't a long spline axle like the 80 Series since I believe they are the same design.

Is the rear diff carrier on the 4Runner same as the early Tundra? Only reason I ask is because back in 04 I bought a Eaton limited slip for a Tundra. Ended up trading the Tundra for a 100 series and never used it. If it fits it could be a option or could sell it to help cover the cost of a E-locker.

Searching around the net still confused on what is axle code on the B pillar sticker. If I believe most of what I've read is the non locker 4Runners had 4.10 and with a locker it's 4.30. I can't understand the reasoning to change the gearing for the locker since 99.9% of the time the locker would be unlocked. And that is only for the those that even use it. First 4Runner I looked at the guy had owned it for a couple of years and never even tried it. Last night while dropping grandkids off at the other grandparents I looked inside their 97 which they bought new. It has the locker. After seeing the switch I asked how often he needed the switch. The response was the security switch? I said the locker, he responded oh when I use it up north. He was wearing a Tee shirt from a off road tour company that was based in Flagstaff. The phone had a area code that was changed about fifteen years ago. I would be surprised if it was ever used.

 

[4x4mike]

The Tundras and 100 series use a larger ring gear. I would assume the carrier is much different.

As far as axle lengths I've never heard or seen of someone that has done this swap that needed new axles.

There are different versions of the e-locker ecu. Mine is black but I think the Tacomas have grey ones and there might be green ones out there. I ordered mine for a 4runner and all the 4runner ones I've seen have been black.

These are what the pin outs look like.

They matched my wiring diagram and my plans so I went with this one.

As far as gear ratios I will be you lunch they have nothing to do with a locker or non-locker. They are tied to the transmission. In my search the manual transmissions (mine) had 4.10 gears and the autos had 4.30's. Most you will find out there, from 4Runners, will be 4.30 as autos are more prominent as are lockers from Limited models (which are autos).

I will also assume you're correct about the other grandparents 4runner. I bet it's a Limited. You'd be extremely pressed to find a limited without a locker. They aren't in there because the owner wanted it, they are there because they wanted the higher trim level of the limited and less of the desire for a locker. In 2007 when I was looking and test driving 4Runners the limited models were owned by people who didn't know what the button did and I assumed they were never used.

 

[Living in the Past]

The other grandparents was a SR5. Cloth seats with no sunroof, did have the wood trim interior. He even commented that mine has the factory hitch and he bought his after market. The 96 I looked at was also a SR5. Five speed, leather seats and sunroof. The 99 in the junk yard was also a SR5 cloth seats, auto. Not sure if it had a sunroof. They has been a 97 locally here on GL for a while. Believe it's one of those small dealers who doesn't have a lot. Most likely bought at auction. It's a SR5 cloth seats with the locker. It's on the other side of the valley which in the Phoenix area is a ways. By the price ($3,500) and not selling I'm guessing it can't be in that great of shape so didn't want to drive 100 miles just to look t it. I was going to look at a high miles (330K) 99 limited. Asked if had a locker and the guy never got back. Mine is a two previous owners with the first owner doing most the maintenance. Second owner didn't have it that long. Sold because military send him to Guam and already shipped the one car and military won't ship a second. Wife finishes some type of medical school first and Dec. and then she is heading over. Priced right on CL. Was the first to look at it and. Couple calls came in while looking it. If I waited figured I would miss out. Only put a couple of hundred miles on it so far but drives nice for a vehicle over fifteen years old.

The information I got from a Toyota service director was the build sheet sounds 4.10. Unless special order shouldn't it have 4.30? Even on a special order the difference between 4.10 and 4.30 is so small doesn't make sense to change it from stock. Only concern is matching the front. Pretty busy this week. Making next week I take some tool including my cordless impact and see how much of the 99 from the junk yard I can get. Just wish I knew for sure which gears I had. Rolling the wheels a full turn and counting the turns on the driveshaft would be hard to tell between the two different gears sets.

 

[4x4mike]

Here you go: http://www.sonoransteel.com/include...eel/TechArticles/1996-2004ToyotaGearRatio.pdf

 

[Living in the Past]

Thanks for that link. I think that was one of the ones I've found. Mine has VZN185L GKPGKA

According to the chart 3.909 standard. 4.10 with 265/70/16 and 4.30 option.

My lay out of the tag is a little different but does have 225/75/15 listed on it. I have the standard aluminum 16" rims with 265/70/16 tires which I guessing someone matched original size tires. Build date is 8/98 but titled as 99 and owner's manual is a 99. According to the tag I should have 3.909 which is if you have smaller tires you wouldn't want lower gearing. or was it possible the 225/75/15 is listed on all tags? This is about as clear as when my wife bought a new Pathfinder back in 87. About a year later she got a tag to put over her original tag that showed the standard size tire instead of the 31/10.50/15s that came standard with her SE sport package. Never installed the sticker. About a month later received another sticker like the one I didn't cover showing the correct size.

Just got a second remote I bought off eBay I'm trying to program. Waiting on a response from the seller but guessing I may have a 98 setup which requires pushing a program button on the ECU with the key in the ignition. Don't happen to know where the main ECU is so I don't have to pull a bunch a panel apart?

 

[4x4mike]

Just got a second remote I bought off eBay I'm trying to program. Waiting on a response from the seller but guessing I may have a 98 setup which requires pushing a program button on the ECU with the key in the ignition. Don't happen to know where the main ECU is so I don't have to pull a bunch a panel apart?

I have this saved on my computer. It's what I used on my eBay fob. When I bought mine it only came with one.

 

[Living in the Past]

Same instructions I'm using and not going into the program mode. On the same website if you go to 98 4Runner everything is different. More like you garage door opener where you have to press a button a button to get it into program mode. 8/98 could have 98 system. Finally got back on my question asking if I had a remote already if not I needed to contact a dealer with my VIN to be sure it was setup for wireless. I included that info in my first email saying I have one factory remote. Two hours to response, so much for live chat . They close at 5:00 PM EST so doubt I hear back today. Bought my Weather Tech floor liners for my Sequoia off a site with live chat that really was live. Even kept hinting about calling instead of using online. Found out a got another discount on the phone.

Interest reading thru the tech sticking it says mid 99 the 4Runners got dual power plugs in the dash, spot for head rest when back seat folded down and larger storage compartment in the back. My early 99 has all those.

 

[chill will]

Here Is a comprehensive link for what you need. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/89502-how-diy-retrofit-elocker-wiring.html

You can also send your 3rd member to ECGS. East coast gear supply the sell rebuilt toyota e-lockers just use an old one to avoid a core charge.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-131078-8-tacoma-fj-cruiser-4runner-e-locker-3rd.html

 

[pillguy]

I did this in 2008 and it has been awesome. I have a 97 3.6 v6 with 4.10 gears. Had to get an axle shipped from Denver with elocker to Atlanta. You need to get a few things off the donor vehicle.
1) axle (duh)
2) elocker brain and harness
3) antilock module harness (I had to retrofit mine) (just one wire added) (may not need if your truck has the elocker harness.
4) elocker switch

Order) new plug in harness to axle ($35)
Order) 4 or 6 wire trailer cable to run a set of wires to brain and e-locker. (retrofit a plug) (if you are lucky, you may not need this if your truck has the full harness
Order a mini skid plate for the e-locker.

I did mine and it was about $800 after all was ordered. Its a great mod.

 

[Living in the Past]

I did this in 2008 and it has been awesome. I have a 97 3.6 v6 with 4.10 gears. Had to get an axle shipped from Denver with elocker to Atlanta. You need to get a few things off the donor vehicle.
1) axle (duh)
2) elocker brain and harness
3) antilock module harness (I had to retrofit mine) (just one wire added) (may not need if your truck has the elocker harness.
4) elocker switch

Order) new plug in harness to axle ($35)
Order) 4 or 6 wire trailer cable to run a set of wires to brain and e-locker. (retrofit a plug) (if you are lucky, you may not need this if your truck has the full harness
Order a mini skid plate for the e-locker.

I did mine and it was about $800 after all was ordered. Its a great mod.

Thanks for the response.


Number 3) Antilock module harness, i this something for the locker or antilock brakes? My 99 has Antilock brakes. I hope to take a cordless impact driver and drill and strip as much wiring that is left. First need to use a couple of crowbars to get the driver's side rear door open to get to the harness that runs along the channel door jam. I have the built sheet for my 4Runner and it left the factory with 4.10. Which make me wonder if the E-locker 4Runner did have 4.30 gearing. Probably get the VIN from the one in the junk yard and see if I can find out what gearing it had.

Looks like things have changed and my daughter wouldn't be needing it after all. So I have it available most the time. Wife wants to drive it sometimes (reason I still need a auto. Need to tackle a few things first. 1) figure out how to how to get my 4Ruuner into program mode to program a new remote. Might need to push a button on the ECU. 2) install a factory amp and head unit. Don't need or want 1,000 watt amp and 800 watt woofer. Or a Pioneer unit that a hundred functions I'll never use. Mine came with six speakers but only a cassette player which I guessing had a internal amp. Need to figure which brackets I need to use on a external amp where it mounts. Search on Mud hasn't foundany answers time to search some other sites.