98 4runner... slowest build thread ever (1 Viewer)

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I got a set from Harbor Fright that does decent. Better than the parts house loaner at least.

I almost bought some from HF, but the quality kind of scares me in this situation. I'm all about Harbor Freight tools in non-critical uses though.

I never figured I'd use a set enough to justify buying them, but after the past year between paying the local front end shop to do it a couple times and renting them from the parts store I could have bought a decent set.

Sent from my detachment from reality.

Same here, and the rental tools are always abused and beat on. Not fun to use.

 

[jynx]

I picked up one of these several years ago. It looked a little beefier than the threaded rods. I used it on some coils on my wifes old WJ and it worked well. I reckon I could disassemble a set of coil-overs if I needed to.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...gle-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I picked up one of these several years ago. It looked a little beefier than the threaded rods. I used it on some coils on my wifes old WJ and it worked well. I reckon I could disassemble a set of coil-overs if I needed to.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...gle-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

I have used one of those as well, my friend bought one for his GTI suspension. I recall it took a lot more effort to turn that single threaded rod... and 4runner springs take a lot of strength to compress. I was wary about that.

 

[jason in tn]

I've never seen that style. The only thing I had a problem with out of the threaded rod style was trying to get the hooks between the coils. Still spooky but not bad.

Sent from my detachment from reality.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I love this truck, but this is becoming a familiar sight. Granted, it's because I can't leave things alone...

Got everything town down last night. It went pretty well. I love having a rust free PNW rig, the LCA's came out easily after moving the steering rack around to clear the bolts. And dropping the coilovers is easy once the arms are pulled.

Out with the old (shocks and spacers):

If anyone wants the 3/4" HDPE spacers I made, you can have them for free if you cover shipping. They worked well, I'm just going to aluminum spacers since I have it apart.

Popped the LCA bushings out with a bottle jack. Pretty darn fun. Just soak them in PB blaster for a bit to loosen them up, keep applying pressure with the jack, and wait for the POP and watch them shoot 10-15 feet.

So today I'll swap shocks, make the spacers, press in the new LCA bushings, and throw it all back together.

 

[jynx]

I know that feeling. I always feel like I am working on something. I got all my stuff in too, but I have to find some time to get it all put together.

How will you press the new bushings in the LCA? I dig the bottle jack move, no distortion in the arm pressing it apart like that?

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Partially in with the new.

If any of you ever think "Aluminum spacers are easy, I'll just make them" go ahead and kick yourself right now (unless you have access to a mill/CNC). So much drilling, and hole saws don't get along with aluminum very well. They were a huge PITA but turned out decent. I still need to widen the center bores out a bit with a carbide bit so they fit over the new bushings.

Having shiny new spring compressors was awesome, I'm glad I bought them. I'm still scared of them while fully compressed but at least I know that there's slightly less chance of them exploding on me.

As for the LCA bushings, I was able to smack them in that far with just a dead blow hammer. Next step is to press them in all the way. I had to rent a tool for that...

How will you press the new bushings in the LCA? I dig the bottle jack move, no distortion in the arm pressing it apart like that?

To get them back in, I'm planning to use a ball joint press that I rented today. AKA a big glorified C-clamp. My clamps and vice were slightly too small to make it work.

The bottle jack seems to be the go-to redneck way to do it, I didn't notice any arm flex either. These control arms are pretty stout.

SO... maybe it will be done tomorrow?

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Got the LCA bushings pressed in with the ball joint press, it worked out well.

I realized that I need to re-compress one of the springs as the top plate needs to be clocked 20 degrees or so... I thought I got the angles right when I put them together but apparently not.

This afternoon is free for the 4runner, I better get it back together. I have an appointment for an alignment tomorrow morning so it needs to be done!

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Is it done yet? Or are you having too much fun riding your bike in a drop box?

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Is it done yet? Or are you having too much fun riding your bike in a drop box?

Yes to both. Lol

Got the 4runner back on 4 wheels, looks the same as it did but now has shiny red shocks and shiny aluminum spacers. Alignment in the morning and then I can actually take it in the woods again.

I've also gotten to the point there I can have a shock disassembled in about 5 minutes with spring compressors. I'll share some tips later about that.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Heading out for an alignment at the dealership in an hour. There is nobody else near me that isn't a chain place or one mom-and-pop shop, and I don't like their work methods. I figure the dealership at least knows how to work on Toyotas with the proper methods and torque specs.

I've also gotten to the point there I can have a shock disassembled in about 5 minutes with spring compressors. I'll share some tips later about that.

So, for making spring compressor jobs easier and quicker:

Make a wood jig to hold the spring/shock in place. Mine was just a couple 2x6 sections that the spring sat on (perpendicular to the shock), then two more 1x2 pieces tacked onto them (parallel to the shock) to prevent the spring from rolling back and forth. Essentially a little cradle for the spring.

When putting the compressor on the spring, take the whole compressor apart first. Slide in the top and bottom collars into the spring and spin them as far apart as possible on the spring. Then thread the shaft back in. The larger the bite the compressor gets, the less you need to compress. I had them with one coil left uncompressed on each end and it only took me 10-12 turns to get the spring compressed.

Use an open-end wrench and count the wrench flats so you keep the compressors evenly compressed. 6 flats = one full turn, and I go 1 turn at a time on each compressor. Going evenly makes them a lot smoother to compress.

That's about it. Keep the threads greased on the compressor and it's a pretty easy job.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Not much to look at, but it's what I snapped.

New spacers (2 x 3/8" plate = 3/4" spacer total) and shiny red shocks.

Put the stock mud flaps back on as I couldn't figure out a good way to mount some flappy rubber mud flaps.

Now I can prep the diffs and axle to install, I'll tackle those in a couple weeks once my class is done. I also plan to piece together some swaybar disconnects for the front and extend the rear sway links a bit. And when I get around to it, the tranny cooler and a few other small things.

Oh yeah, about the ride now...

It drives like a new truck! The Monomax shocks are perfect, firm but not harsh. I'd recommend them to anybody over OME shocks (harsh on 3rd Gens) or Bilsteins (overpriced for what they are). And with the fresh alignment, new bushings and LBJs, and my past steering fixes, I can't find anything wrong in the front end at all.

Edit again... big +1 for my local Toyota dealership. Great alignment, quick service, competitive price.

 

[jason in tn]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for sway bar links, I have completely removed the front but I need to do something with the rear and a quick disconnect setup would be nice.

Sent from my detachment from reality.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for sway bar links, I have completely removed the front but I need to do something with the rear and a quick disconnect setup would be nice.

Sent from my detachment from reality.

My opinion... don't disconnect the rear. The rear suspension flexes much better than the front in these rigs even with the (relatively soft) swaybar attached. If you keep the rear bar and disconnect/pull the front bar, it will force the front suspension to articulate and balance out the handling in both slow and faster off road.

For the front, I'm going to make something like the old WabFab/Larsdennert style disconnects with Heim Joints.

http://67.122.16.100/larsdennert/4runner/swaybar/build.html

For the rears I'm just going to extend them by 1" using a threaded coupler in the middle of the stock end link.

 

[jason in tn]

I ran mine with both removed for a long time and for me it was Scarry off road, I reinstalled the rear for that reason. I have read a few threads that talk about the bar rubbing the Elocker actuator if left the stock length, mine is very close at ride height so I could see it being an issue off road.

Sent from my detachment from reality.

 

[jynx]

I am sure that it is in here somewhere, but what are you measuring from fender to the center of the wheel with the spacers?

I am beginning to think that I am not going to be happy with just the 1/4" spacer and the highlander coils once I get the bumper mounted and was debating on taking Jason up on those old spacers he has.

thanks

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I am sure that it is in here somewhere, but what are you measuring from fender to the center of the wheel with the spacers?

I am beginning to think that I am not going to be happy with just the 1/4" spacer and the highlander coils once I get the bumper mounted and was debating on taking Jason up on those old spacers he has.

thanks

Ya know, I haven't measured that since I installed the new spacers. I'll check for you in the next couple days.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

I am sure that it is in here somewhere, but what are you measuring from fender to the center of the wheel with the spacers?

I am beginning to think that I am not going to be happy with just the 1/4" spacer and the highlander coils once I get the bumper mounted and was debating on taking Jason up on those old spacers he has.

thanks

Finally remembered to do this. My driveway isn't very level so I averaged left and right measurements. This is from wheel center to bottom edge of my chrome stripe fender trim:

Front: 22 3/8"
Rear: 22 1/2"

I'm 100% happy with the height. I think the only thing I'll add are some Airlift bags for carrying heavy loads, but that won't happen until next year.

 

[jynx]

Cool, thanks. Where did you get your longer studs for use with the spacers?

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Cool, thanks. Where did you get your longer studs for use with the spacers?

Wheeler's Offroad. Good crew down there, one of the best for 3rd gen 4runner knowledge.