Builds 95' FZJ80 Build with 6BT swap (2 Viewers)

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How long did you wait for your kit? I've been waiting for the rest of my parts for a while now ... Purchased the kit back in April haha...
 
How long did you wait for your kit? I've been waiting for the rest of my parts for a while now ... Purchased the kit back in April haha...
I am still waiting on the bell housing, all the throttle stuff, my harness, and a few other things. I ordered mine a little over a month ago.
 
Well get ready for some hurry up and wait.... I have everything ready to roll just need the parts to finish it...
 
Well get ready for some hurry up and wait.... I have everything ready to roll just need the parts to finish it...
So are you building a new cruiser or putting a cummins in your LX450 you put the GM 6.0 in?
 
Pulled my 6L to try the diesel. If I don't like it the LX will get a boosted LS motor.. Weak link is going to be the Toyota transmission. But I'm going to push it to see what it will handle.
 
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Dustin actually bought the duiser business about 2 months ago, they now they have both the machining and installation sides of the business.
If that's the case next time I call to try to get another thermostat housing I should mention that my cruiser is front page on his website. It might be good to keep it on the road.

To the OP did you get the updated housing with your kit?
 
You sure you have enough belt wrap on your alternator? I ended up putting the big fan pully back on mine because I could never get the bypassed routing to work right. Busted a tensioner in the process.
 
If that's the case next time I call to try to get another thermostat housing I should mention that my cruiser is front page on his website. It might be good to keep it on the road.

To the OP did you get the updated housing with your kit?

Not sure, how do I tell?
 
Not sure, how do I tell?
I believe the new one gets bolting on rather than the twist lock method. We have had two or three confirmed failures on this forum with the twist lock. I consider it the achilles heal of the conversion. Mine failed at 8K spewing coolant everywhere. Dustin did send me another free of charge but I want another as back up.
 
I believe the new one gets bolting on rather than the twist lock method. We have had two or three confirmed failures on this forum with the twist lock. I consider it the achilles heal of the conversion. Mine failed at 8K spewing coolant everywhere. Dustin did send me another free of charge but I want another as back up.
Mine bolts on so it must be the new version.
 
You sure you have enough belt wrap on your alternator? I ended up putting the big fan pully back on mine because I could never get the bypassed routing to work right. Busted a tensioner in the process.
That is the only way I could figure out to get the belt on, did you figure something better out? Don't exactly have a guide for the conversion(though I was promised some improved instructions with pictures, but considering I can't get them to answer the phone, return my calls or emails, I'm not going to hold my breath), just some basic instructions that are a little vague in some areas, so I have had to just figure a lot out as I go. Do you have any pics of your setup?
 
I had to place a sticker under my hood so I would remember how the belt routing goes.
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1442334961.939377.jpg
 
LOL, I hear you!
I will run out and see if I can get a shot of how mine is set up.
 
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OK, so here is how my belt was originally routed. See below for the descrption of what went wrong. Never heard back from Dustin so I just put the big fan pulley back on.

I got everything together and the engine installed and as soon as I started the engine, the tensioner rotated back toward the alternator. I am using an 81" belt and there is no way to get a smaller one on there (I had to use a pry bar to get it over the water pump). The engine turns clockwise as you look at it from the front and that means that the belt is going against the tensioner rather than with it. Doesn't seem right. I have attached a picture of how it was routed.
Any ideas? I really dont want to have to put the fan idler back on there.
 
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Do yourself a favor and route it like Mr Cimarron. You move the tensioner back up to the top of the block.
The way you have it set up the belt will be running against the spring tension in the tensioner and not with it. It's just a bad idea in general and mine busted the tensioner within seconds of starting.
 

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