- Thread starter
- #81
Finally had some garage time today and was able to fab up my driver side rock slider. I’ll be mounting the factory steps. Not too bad for an angle grinder
Builds 79 FJ 40 Rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Stevens79FJ40
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- #82
Well I tried to resize the image and that didn’t turn out right
RevISK
SILVER Star
I use my iPhone camera most times and never have to resize?
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- #84
RevISK
SILVER Star
For instance:
Happy Halloween!!
Happy Halloween!!
- Thread starter
- #86
After all my grinding, sanding, patching etc…… on this backyard rigged body from the PO i find this for sale. Gotta be kidding me lol
- Thread starter
- #87
Good morning all,
Been stripping my floor pan etc in prep for rhino lining. I noticed that the homemade floor pans slightly pop due to thinness and lack of the oem designed stamped ridges. Only real solution is a new body years down the road. Short term fix. lol I’m thinking about buying some strips of steel, rounding the ends, tacking them in to create the stamped look and add rigidity. All will be covered up by the bed liner.
That or buy a flat sheet cut to fit the floor pan and basically have 2 layers of sheet metal. Only issue is the floor pan is a little bumpy so the two pieces would not fit together without gaps. So this is an ugly idea. To level it out I thought about pouring a thin layer for epoxy self leveler then with adhesive add the new section of floor pan I would make. I know that sounds so janky.
I need the rhino liner to cover up all the ground welds, bondo and seam sealer used to smooth out the joints from the po garbage work. But if the floor pan is popping when you step on it, the bed liner will just break free….
Ultimate solution is a new tub. This is my 5 yard solution to put it back together and enjoy for a time
Been stripping my floor pan etc in prep for rhino lining. I noticed that the homemade floor pans slightly pop due to thinness and lack of the oem designed stamped ridges. Only real solution is a new body years down the road. Short term fix. lol I’m thinking about buying some strips of steel, rounding the ends, tacking them in to create the stamped look and add rigidity. All will be covered up by the bed liner.
That or buy a flat sheet cut to fit the floor pan and basically have 2 layers of sheet metal. Only issue is the floor pan is a little bumpy so the two pieces would not fit together without gaps. So this is an ugly idea. To level it out I thought about pouring a thin layer for epoxy self leveler then with adhesive add the new section of floor pan I would make. I know that sounds so janky.
I need the rhino liner to cover up all the ground welds, bondo and seam sealer used to smooth out the joints from the po garbage work. But if the floor pan is popping when you step on it, the bed liner will just break free….
Ultimate solution is a new tub. This is my 5 yard solution to put it back together and enjoy for a time
RevISK
SILVER Star
Tacked strips sound like the best short term fix but I’m suspect about how much it’ll fix your pop.
- Thread starter
- #89
I agree it will be the best aesthetically. I hope it adds enough strength. The rhino liner should help to a degree as well
- Thread starter
- #90
Having to crop my photos to upload.
Anyway I was able to strengthen my floor plan by making these mock ridges.
Cut out this awful rear panel and purchased a bolt on tailgate from real steel. I looks great but to due to PO it does not fit correctly. Could someone let me where the top of the barn doors should meet the top of the tub? Flush?
Anyway I was able to strengthen my floor plan by making these mock ridges.
Cut out this awful rear panel and purchased a bolt on tailgate from real steel. I looks great but to due to PO it does not fit correctly. Could someone let me where the top of the barn doors should meet the top of the tub? Flush?
1911
chupacabra
Your '79 would have originally had rear ambulance doors. The PO has removed/welded over the captured nuts and holes in the tub for the ambulance door hinges. If you don't have / are not going to put on the hard top, then you can do whatever you want with the Real Steel tailgate, but it seems like having the tailgate flush with the top and rear of the tub would obviously look the best - but perhaps I am not understanding your question?
This is where my barn doors finish out
Great thread OP.
I also have a ‘79 that I’ve been working on with my kids which has/had many of the issues and PO ‘patches’ you’ve been dealing with. Wonder if our 40’s came from the same PO!
That said, enjoy reading the thread and look forward to following the progress!
I also have a ‘79 that I’ve been working on with my kids which has/had many of the issues and PO ‘patches’ you’ve been dealing with. Wonder if our 40’s came from the same PO!
That said, enjoy reading the thread and look forward to following the progress!
- Thread starter
- #94
Thank you both so much! I thought flush would be correct, just wanted to double check. Mostly I want it to look aesthetically pleasing.
- Thread starter
- #95
Thanks! Yup I hate undoing someone else’s shortcutsGreat thread OP.
I also have a ‘79 that I’ve been working on with my kids which has/had many of the issues and PO ‘patches’ you’ve been dealing with. Wonder if our 40’s came from the same PO!
That said, enjoy reading the thread and look forward to following the progress!
- Thread starter
- #96
The bib is coming along
- Thread starter
- #97
Never enough time!
Finally have the tailgate and corners mocked up.
So much work in this tailgate. This body has been worked on so much by POs I’m amazed I got it to fit.
Warrior products really helped me out. I was missing a corner when I opened the box and the back plate I ordered was bent. They paid to have everything returned and immediately sent out new items. The thin back plate was packed super secure and arrived perfect. Can’t say enough good things about their costumer service!
Finally have the tailgate and corners mocked up.
So much work in this tailgate. This body has been worked on so much by POs I’m amazed I got it to fit.
Warrior products really helped me out. I was missing a corner when I opened the box and the back plate I ordered was bent. They paid to have everything returned and immediately sent out new items. The thin back plate was packed super secure and arrived perfect. Can’t say enough good things about their costumer service!
- Thread starter
- #98
So excited! We just bought paint!!! Going with Audi Nardo Gray. Just waiting for it to warm up a little here in PA. Building our buy list to finish the rig. Regarding fuel tanks. Per google there are some fuel tanks on amazon, eBay, carid etc that are about $100 less than cruiser sites. Of course I’m concerned they won’t be correct. Any experience with fuel tanks? Or even a cheap and or better option. I think we will go with a sniper before its all done, in tank pump.
For a 79 you should have a tank under the cab in the rear. On Amazon you can buy this reproduction tank that is the same as OEM outside of not having a drain plug. Inventory comes in sporadically so be ready to buy it when they have some in stock. Not many other places have the later truck 79+ fuel tank options so choices are slim.
Spectra Premium Spectra Fuel Tank TO16A
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- #100
Yes I have seen those. Was just concerned they were not an accurate reproduction. Sounds good though!
