71 build...finally :) (1 Viewer)

[PatFJ40]

Trying to figure out the best way to attach these new "inner panels" to the body. I was thinking about drilling some 1/4 inch holes in the body and spot welding them in. Any thoughts? Also for anyone wondering, a 12" pipe works great for getting the curve.

 

[waiting for time]

Trying to figure out the best way to attach these new "inner panels" to the body. I was thinking about drilling some 1/4 inch holes in the body and spot welding them in. Any thoughts? Also for anyone wondering, a 12" pipe works great for getting the curve.

I would have cut the old material out. If you weld them together on top of each other, you will create a potential rust collector.

 

[PatFJ40]

I would have cut the old material out. If you weld them together on top of each other, you will create a potential rust collector.

I thought about the rust part. I live in a pretty dry area (300+ days of sun) I plan on having the under side and the inside of the tub rhino lined so it will be sealed up when its done.

 

[waiting for time]

You need to brace the opening for the rear doors before welding. You will never get them into shape after.

Keep it up.

 

[PatFJ40]

You need to brace the opening for the rear doors before welding. You will never get them into shape after.

Keep it up.

Thanks, I was looking at doing that the other night when I worked on it. I measured it up and both sides are straight (mostly, within 1/16 of an inch top to bottom). But yes I will be installing some bracing to get it straight.

 

[PatFJ40]

Got a deal on a set of new front fenders. And the sheet metal repair is coming along on the rear corners.

 

[PatFJ40]

Hey everyone, its been a short very busy summer and sadly I haven't made near as much progress as I would like to have. Anyway, here are some pics of what I have gotten done lately. Body work on the rear is done as far as the sheet metal on the corners and the rear sill channel. Got the doors put on last week. Used new stainless bolts to replace the standard 5/16" bolts the PO used. Got my p/s box mounting bracket (thanks Jim). And the steering column out of the donor van is hanging by acouple of bolts. Haven't decided if I want to use it since it had the auto shifter on it and I would like a cleaner look.

 

[Bull22]

Looking good man...

 

[PatFJ40]

Hey thanks Bull! Here's a shot of the steering box being mocked up. Sorry about the pic quality.

 

[srgould41]

Is your rear cross member cut in the middle? Looks like it in the last pic in post 48.

 

[PatFJ40]

Is your rear cross member cut in the middle? Looks like it in the last pic in post 48.

Yeah it is. There used to be an excuse for a hitch there.

 

[softdrinkviking]

I thought about the rust part. I live in a pretty dry area (300+ days of sun) I plan on having the under side and the inside of the tub rhino lined so it will be sealed up when its done.

it's not just air or moisture. the difference in electrical potential of the two metals will cause corrosion. just by touching each other. all it takes it a tiny bit of atmosphere to cause a new rust spot, it doesn't have to be water.

 

[srgould41]

Ouch, that's a major structural member. Are you replacing it?

Yeah it is. There used to be an excuse for a hitch there.

 

[subzali]

POR-15 is pretty hard; I'm sure you could grind it off if you ever wanted to though.

If it were me modifying the wheel wells to accommodate a spring reversal I would add material on the front end to "center" the wheel well opening on the centerline of the new axle location. It will make it look better (IMO).

On the rear sill, you might think about reproducing the wrap-around on the corners as extra reinforcement. It will provide extra strength to those corners and help keep them from being easily damaged.

 

[PatFJ40]

Ouch, that's a major structural member. Are you replacing it?

POR-15 is pretty hard; I'm sure you could grind it off if you ever wanted to though.

If it were me modifying the wheel wells to accommodate a spring reversal I would add material on the front end to "center" the wheel well opening on the centerline of the new axle location. It will make it look better (IMO).

On the rear sill, you might think about reproducing the wrap-around on the corners as extra reinforcement. It will provide extra strength to those corners and help keep them from being easily damaged.

srgould41: I had the rear bumper welded to that crossmember before. I've been thinking about a different way to reattach it and maintain strength for both. Any ideas?

subzali: I haven't taken any pics yet of the inside of the corners since I finished them. The plate that I put inside the corners is 1/8" and the tube I used for the sill is 1/4" wall. I'll post up a pic next week. I like your thoughts on keeping the wheel centered in the opening. I haven't put too much more thought into it yet because I'm thinking about doing a spring over to run 35's. I'm kicking around getting the kit from proffitts. Though I'm not seeing a price on their new site.

 

[PatFJ40]

Worked on the tranny hump for a little bit this evening. Made a rough draft template. Seems like it should work out. Going to have to put some thought into the heater though. Any thoughts?

 

[srgould41]

Honestly? I would recommend replacing the cross member and tie ins (I assume they were cut also). The tie ins are on the inside so you can't easily splice a patch in there. A welded splice on the outside might cause fitment issues for bumpers, etc., but might work if done well.


I like the tranny hump idea you have. Looks like it will work well.

srgould41: I had the rear bumper welded to that crossmember before. I've been thinking about a different way to reattach it and maintain strength for both. Any ideas?

 

[PatFJ40]

I'll have to look again, but I think the to tie ins end right at that opening and the rivits had been cut out and the holes are welded up. I'll take a pic of the inside to post.

 

[srgould41]

Pics would help for sure. Then I'd suggest asking Poser or OrangeFJ45. Steve and Georg know the 40's like nobody else!

I'll have to look again, but I think the to tie ins end right at that opening and the rivits had been cut out and the holes are welded up. I'll take a pic of the inside to post.

 

[PatFJ40]

Here's a shot of the rear crossmember from the inside and another of the inside of the corners.