3B main/con rod bearing swap pictures! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Main journals are 69.98-70.00mm, bearing thickness 2.480-2.485 OR 2.485-2.490mm

Big end journals are 60.98-61.00mm, bearing thickness 1.480-1.485 OR 1.485-1.490mm

[Note the the BE journals for a "B" are 58.98-59.00mm. That is a ~6mm difference in circumference between the B and 3B, which looks roughly like the difference seen in my photo - looks like I got B bearings.]

Hmmmm. Yet SOR say that the bearing set you bought fits all three engines - That's the B, 2B and 3B.......... Strange:frown:

I can't see any STD (standard) bearings listed for a 3B when it has been fitted to a BJ60 or BJ7# either :frown::frown:.

...EDIT: Incidentally, SOR is telling me they sell them all the time and clearly its my engine that is "different". They said they'll take em back, but only after the inspect them and decide what their restocking fee would be... thats some bull**** right there.

Perhaps you should get them to swap your set for a "034-50F" set Drew. - They will probably be the ones for your engine

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
Hmmmm. Yet SOR say that the bearing set you bought fits all three engines - That's the B, 2B and 3B.......... Strange:frown:

I had a look at the EPC and stangely enough - It doesn't appear to list any STD (standard) bearings for a 3B when it has been fitted to a BJ60 or BJ7# either :frown::frown:.

Perhaps you should get them to swap your set for a "034-50F" set Drew. - They will probably be the ones for your engine

:cheers:

Well I checked all my rod bearings and they're fine, I don't intend to get back under there because, well, that job kinda sucks.

I too checked the EPC, and what I found agrees with me/my truck, and suggests that SOR's catalog is indeed wrong. For example these are the rod bearing P/N's:

1979 B - 13041-56010-01,02
1982 3B - 13041-58010-01,02
1985 3B - 13041-58010-01,02

[I assume that when you said there wasn't a STD bearing you were assuming the -01, -02 meant 0.01, 0.02 over? Not so, these are all STD bearings, but there were two sizes so that the best size could be selected on a journal by journal basis. The FSM refers to the by color, "yellow" vs "green".]

So clearly the B and 3B DON'T share a bearing, and there WASN'T a change in conrod bearings in 1984. I have a feeling I was just being BS'd on the phone when they said the sell lots of them, their head customer service guy is... not very pleasant.

Hope people aren't slapping these things without thinking it through....
 
Ask to speak to the owner, Marv....he's really cool. He took the time to look over and test drive :steer: my BJ42 when I was down there and gave it a thumbs up.
 
Ask to speak to the owner, Marv....he's really cool. He took the time to look over and test drive :steer: my BJ42 when I was down there and gave it a thumbs up.

I tried to, Mr. Customer Service told me in the past that he was the one Marv has deal with people like me, and I couldn't speak to him (and no, I'm not a dick on the phone). I don't wanna start pissing and moaning though, provided they take the return I'm ok with trading $10 for a little less stress.

I did email Kay, however, with the bearing sizing information, so maybe someday things will get straightened out.
 
Well I checked all my rod bearings and they're fine, I don't intend to get back under there because, well, that job kinda sucks.

Fair enough Drew.

I just thought that if their "restocking fee" was too high it might be a good alternative. (Most companies hate supplying refunds but are often happy to swap goods.)

.....I assume that when you said there wasn't a STD bearing you were assuming the -01, -02 meant 0.01, 0.02 over? Not so, these are all STD bearings, but there were two sizes so that the best size could be selected on a journal by journal basis. The FSM refers to the by color, "yellow" vs "green".....

I can't see an "STD" offering.

...So clearly the B and 3B DON'T share a bearing......

I agree (for the big end shells). As I have got written in my 3B/B parts interchangeability thread ----- The B engine shares its main-bearing-shells with the 2B and 3B engines but its big-end-shells are common ONLY with the 2B engine.

PS. I think SOR have got their catogue info incorrect - But to be fair - It is one hell-of-a job to get it all correct considering the amount of stuff they stock
 
Last edited:
Well this is the page I see for a 3B when it is fitted to a BJ7#

View attachment 268086

That is the full list of replacement "Big End Shell sets" and I can't see an "STD" offering.

Toyodiy.com's copy of the EPC shows this for a 1986 BJ70:

13041 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD
13041‑56040‑01 3B, 13BT..BJ7*; MARK"1" 4 $25.04
13041‑56040‑02 3B, 13BT..BJ7*; MARK"2" 4 $25.04
13041‑58010‑01 3B, 13BT..BJ7*; MARK"1" 4 $29.87
13041‑58010‑02 3B, 13BT..BJ7*; MARK"2" 4 $29.87

Note the last two #'s match the 82 and 85 BJ42/BJ60 3B bearings. What year did you use?
 
Last edited:
I am reviving this old thread to clarify what part number I should get for main bearings on my 1985 BJ60 3b.

I am dropping the oil pan to weld a bung for my turbo install and thought I would do some preventative maintence. I will be honest I dont know much (anything) about engines, but read this isnt a hard job.

After much reading on here I just want to be sure I get the right bearings. I have other horror stories of the wrong bearings.
This is what I got from toyodiy and what Amaurer has above for part numbers:

13041 BEARING, CONNECTING ROD
13041-58010-01 3B..BJ60, MARK"1", MARK 1 4 $23.37
13041-58010-02 3B..BJ60, MARK"2", MARK 2 4 $23.37

Is this right, if so, whats a good place to get these from? Not SOR i assume.

Amaurer thanks for a great post!
 
You can probably get them from Toyota, but you should open up the oil pan first to read the markings regarding how many of each part number you need.

If you go aftermarket then you'll use a single size of bearing. Try roodogs or 4wheel auto, would be my first impulse.
 
that is why i'll stick with the guys from 4wheelauto, they're always good to me and always willing to help a fellow cruiser head
 
Thanks Amaurer, I will talk to 4wheelauto or Radd, Was hoping to do this when the pan was dropped but that makes sense. Again great post.

jon
 
Which plastigauge do I need? I bought some with the clearance range of 0.23-0.51 mm
the manual says standard oil clearance for connecting rod caps 0.030-0.070mm and for mains 0.030-0.074mm
Did I get the right stuff? Or do I need to get smaller?
 
Which plastigauge do I need? I bought some with the clearance range of 0.23-0.51 mm
the manual says standard oil clearance for connecting rod caps 0.030-0.070mm and for mains 0.030-0.074mm
Did I get the right stuff? Or do I need to get smaller?

I don't think you can use Plastigauge when the engine is in the upright position. Normally Plastigauge is used when the engine is in a stand and the crank is resting in the block. The gap between the crank journal and the main cap is filled by the Plastigauge. But when the engine in the upright position the crank resting in the caps. Putting a Plastigauge in one of the bearings will always result in a "small" reading.
 
Last edited:
I don't think you can use Plastigauge when the engine is in the upright position. Normally Plastigauge is used when the engine is in a stand and the crank is resting in the block. The gap between the crank journal and the main cap is filled by the Plastigauge. But when the engine in the upright position the crank resting in the caps. Putting a Plastigauge in one of the bearings will always result in a "small" reading.

Nah.

The only difference between the upright and upside-down readings is the weight of the crankshaft. As far as plastigauge is concerned thats tiny compared to the pressure from the preload of the bearing caps.

No problem doing it upright.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom