3.0 high alternator choices and experiences? (1 Viewer)

[Bogo]

My alternator is starting to squeal. It doesn't sound like a stuck pig yet, but now is the time to fix it. I'm betting the front bearing is going out. No matter what I do, I will rebuild the one I have. I'm trying to determine if I go forward with an alternator upgrade now or later, and what is likely the best candidate to go with. I'm leaning toward upgrading now as it will allow adding an isolated second battery by summer.

What high output alternators do you have experience with and what do you think of them after having used them for awhile?

My main use will be recharging a battery bank that will be powering my laptop, lighting, camera battery recharging, running a refrigerator, etc..

The alternator will be attached to a 3VZE in a '95 4Runner.

Sofar the two possibilities with the greatest apeal to me are: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/100-amp-alt-upgrade-18551.html which uses a 1991 Toyota MR2 100 Amp alternator, and High Output Alternators For Toyota Applications which uses a GM 140 Amp to 250 Amp alternators. They both seam to have minimal modifications needed for alternators designed for their output Amps.

Edit: Thread title should read "3.0 High Output Alternator choices and Experiences?"

 

[KLF]

I will very likely be upgrading from the stock alternator when I put my truck back together, as I am planning a second battery setup. I have heard good things about this place:

Mr. Alternator - high output, powder coating, chrome starters & high torque starters.

I did call them a couple of years ago when I needed an alternator, and he agreed with me that you that you also need to upgrade the main feed wire that carries the current from the alternator to the fusebox. Not sure about the 3.0L setup, but the factory white wire in my harness only about a #10, not sufficient if I were to spike the alternator to 120 amps. I didn't have the time to mess with it at the time, so I just tossed one of my spares in and went that way.

 

[NorCalBorn]

I'll ditto KLF's link. I ended up just going local for a customer's though and having the local alternator/starter shop we trust do the rebuild. No bracket mods, etc necessary, just bolt it into the stock location and replace the big-3 wires and done.

Bog-3=Starter, Alternator, and Chassis/Ground.

 

[Bogo]

I'd like to stay away from packing to much current into a to small of place. The result is always to much heat and shortened life.

I've been stuffing my head with alternator stuff this evening. It appears that using a GM CS144 style alternator with 6/12 mountings (Pictured on this page Brand New OEM Delco-Remy CS-144 Alternators) is very easy to adapt to the 3VZE in the 2nd gen 4runner. The CS-144 alternator has a bazillion different mounting options. The 6/12 mount alternator has a 2" wide main mounting lug that fits into the 2.25" wide mounting area that the stock alternator mounts to. Some washers are used to shim it to the right place for the belt. The belt tension adjustment arm needs to be modified to extend it 2.5" and offset it some. An inch longer alternator belt is needed, and the right pulley to match the alternator belt. Electrically an adapter needs to be added to the harness (Part # C120 Regulator Repair Harness for CS121, CS130, & CS144 Series Alternators). It can be spliced in place of or in parallel to the stock connector. Also, all the main ground wires and the alternator to battery wire need to be increased to at least 4 AWG wire. Also the alternator light wire should have a resistance to ground of 35 to 300 ohms, if not add a 1/4th watt resistor inline to raise it up into that range. There should also be a suitably large fuse on the alternator to battery wire at the battery.

While I haven't found a CS144 alternator that has an AGM compatible Voltage regulator built into it, I have found simple instructions on how to convert it to external regulation. I've also found a replacement regulator that provides an adjustable output (Part # D411SEA Adjustable Self Exciting Voltage Regulator for Delco CS Series Alternators),

I need to talk to the alternator guy in Ames to find out what he says on them. I know some of them came on vehicles that had AGM batteries standard.

Interesting writeup from a marine alternator retrofitter. Marine high output alternator and second alternator discussion

 

[Bogo]

I also did a bunch of reading up on Balmar alternators and charge controllers. They would handle charging an AGM battery bank fine, but the cost is prohibitive. On the other hand they are made for extended runs at full load. It would be $800 to $900 for alternator and regulator/charge controller. That could be set to AGM mode.
Balmar High-Output Alternators

I found an isolator from Sure Power http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M50/80003/SURE POWER 1315-200 BATTERY/ that looks interesting in everything, but its using a solenoid. It has voltage sensing circuits that only connect the two battery banks when charging is going on. When charging ends or draws get to high that voltages are depressed it isolates them. This particular one monitors both battery banks and will connect them if charging on either is going on and the bank with the active charger is over X voltage. This means a solar charger could be connected up to the house bank with the alternator connected to the engine starting bank. When the solar charger has the house bank charged up to the combine voltage, it will combine them and charge both battery banks. This allows excess solar charging to charge the starting battery bank too.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I I did call them a couple of years ago when I needed an alternator, and he agreed with me that you that you also need to upgrade the main feed wire that carries the current from the alternator to the fusebox. Not sure about the 3.0L setup, but the factory white wire in my harness only about a #10, not sufficient if I were to spike the alternator to 120 amps. I didn't have the time to mess with it at the time, so I just tossed one of my spares in and went that way.

If you ever figure out how to replace that wire, please post a thread. I ran a new one when I replaced my alternator but had to abandon it in place after the truck wouldn't start. There's clearly a connection or two somewhere in the harness that has to be made and I didn't want to tear the entire bundle apart looking for it.

Hijack over....

 

[Bogo]

If you ever figure out how to replace that wire, please post a thread. I ran a new one when I replaced my alternator but had to abandon it in place after the truck wouldn't start. There's clearly a connection or two somewhere in the harness that has to be made and I didn't want to tear the entire bundle apart looking for it.

Hijack over....

This is for 2nd gen 4runners, but the more limited diagrams I have for the '93 pickup show the same circuits, without wire colors and the exact hookup position of the alternator.

For the white wire in the 3 pin plug that connects into the alternator: It connects to the AM1 fuse output, and also connects to the AM1 switch in the ignition key switch. It controls ACC/IG1/ST1 circuits which are the ACCessory/IGnition/STart circuits. It to goes through a plug/connector on the 22RE 4runners and doesn't have it on 3VZE vehicles. Note: This wire doesn't need to be upgraded when the alternator is upgraded.

For the white wire that is on it's own with the ring terminal on it: My wiring diagrams have it also connected to the input side of the AM1 fuse as well as the 80A(3VZE/MT 22RE) or 100A(AT 22RE) battery fuse. On a 22RE 4runners it goes through the same plug/connector as the other white wire, but on the 3VZE it doesn't. Note: This is the wire that needs to be upgraded to handle the extra current from the new alternator. The 80A/100A fuse to the battery also needs upgrading.

Image of the wiring diagram page for 2nd gen 4runners:
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/6747/4runner2ndgenewdpowerso.png
The whole PDF file is over at Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

 

[ntsqd]

In case anyone is looking into this, what I did:

I went with the MR2 100A alternator option because wiring-wise it was plug & run. I've done a CS130 on a 22R by making my own mount, tensioning bracket, and adapter wiring harness, and I wanted simple this time. I almost got it. I found that with some adjustments to things that it is possible to use the stock length poly-v belt. For this to fit you need to alter the alternator mount bracket with a counter-sunk hole at the lowest bolt hole, convert a threaded boss on the block to M10-1.5 from M10-1.25 using a Helicoil (because M10-1.25 FHCS' make Unicorns seem common), and shim the tensioning bracket out with 3-4 washers (replace the tensioner anchor bolt with the one replaced by the counter-sunk bolt). You'll need to distort the shield on the rear of the alternator a little in order to get enough swing to get the belt on the pulley, and you'll have to adjust the dip-stick tube to bolt behind the mount bracket (instead of on top of it - the FHCS won't hold it very well) and not rub on the engine mount casting.