Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild (3 Viewers)

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whats the cruise motor from?
doesn't look like either of the 96+ i have

It’s from a 1998 4Runner, I did modify the bracket but it’s a Toyota part.
Interesting. I'm using the longer cable, mostly because it's what I had. I'm not only showing that the shorter cable is still available, I'm showing it's the correct part for the 3RZ in a 1998 4R. Stupid money, but available.

Short cable: 78180-89141
Long cable: 78180-35052

Interesting, I was going off of what was on 22re Performances website. If I’m unhappy with the quality of the cheap one I bought I’ll order a Toyota one. The sheathing is cracked and broken on mine which is also causing issues.

Thank you for the correction!

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@gnob, I’ll grab the part number for my CC module tomorrow. I spent some time this evening looking at photos of the CC module for an 98 4Runner and it definitely looks different from what everywhere else is showing.

Spent the day just doing odds and ends. The marker lights are wired, drain line for the AC evap installed and diff breathers ran again. Really not much to do until more parts arrive. I’m waiting on a fan shroud, throttle cable, new coil wires (one of mine was busted), and an electrical connector to replace the ECU temp sensor connector since it had broken tabs. If all goes well, I should have it up and running in 1-2 weeks and then I can finally finish the wiring and install the interior.
 
@gnob, here’s the part number for the cruise control, I didn’t get any hits on Amayama for it.

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Turns out the throttle cable I ordered is too short but yet the one from a later model is too long. In the end I just modified this one by breaking it. Eventually I’ll fix it and try a Toyota cable but for now it works and I have full throttle. I also got some random parts from 22RE Performance installed new clutch and brake pedal, hood rod and grommet, and washer fluid line clips installed
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I’ve also noticed that the drivers headlight is a lot lower than the passenger side. This front clip had some damage to it and I thought I did a good enough job getting it out. At this point I’ll either pay a body guy to fix it (I’m over body work and I suck at it) or, if I can find another front clip, I’ll weld that on. With this project going the way it has been I’m over trying to get it all done. I just want to drive it and enjoy the truck again, the original goal was cheap and that goal didn’t last long.
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@gnob, here’s the part number for the cruise control, I didn’t get any hits on Amayama for it.

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Turns out the throttle cable I ordered is too short but yet the one from a later model is too long. In the end I just modified this one by breaking it. Eventually I’ll fix it and try a Toyota cable but for now it works and I have full throttle. I also got some random parts from 22RE Performance installed new clutch and brake pedal, hood rod and grommet, and washer fluid line clips installed View attachment 3608094


I’ve also noticed that the drivers headlight is a lot lower than the passenger side. This front clip had some damage to it and I thought I did a good enough job getting it out. At this point I’ll either pay a body guy to fix it (I’m over body work and I suck at it) or, if I can find another front clip, I’ll weld that on. With this project going the way it has been I’m over trying to get it all done. I just want to drive it and enjoy the truck again, the original goal was cheap and that goal didn’t last long.
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cool. i have apparently never seen that one with the cover off.
This is the one im using. this is a 95ish.
ive seen it on 4R and one or two year taco.
7 wire unit. was used on several different models of vehicles imu.
i just have this as an electric hand throttle.

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is the headlight really that far out. your hood and bumper being jacked is messing with perspective.
I’ll have to double check with the hood open and the bumper off. I have a new grill I can test fit as well to see. This truck has been in two wrecks, one was a roll that crushed the drivers front and the other was a T bone accident so I’m suspecting that there is damage going into the cab and I didn’t notice it.

The truth is, I would’ve probably been money and time ahead to have just swapped on the spare cab I had laying around. But I didn’t want mismatched vins, this was a personal choice and it’s not one I’m sure I’d do again. I love this truck and I’ve enjoyed all the time and effort put into it, I just wish I had done a few things very differently and it would’ve made for a better outcome.
 
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Threw some fuel in it last night and found out the fuel sender unit wasn’t working. So I pulled that out and cleaned it really good and ended up fixing it!
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It officially lives! Once the radiator was bled the coolant temp held steady. I took it for a test drive and the brakes need to be bled more and the wiring all finished up. Cruise control isn’t working and I have a few codes that I need to check on. The tach isn’t working either so I’ll need to deal with that.
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Those senders are stupid money for what they are. This one still may be acting up, so I may have to get a new one.

Let this be a reason to never buy cheap bull**** off of eBay. I was working in the tach and the engine just died. Wouldn’t turn over so I pulled plugs and tried to turn it by hand and found this BS.

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I have no clue. I made damn sure to assemble the cans slowly to keep them level and that they spin freely once in. I also used the s*** out of the assembly lube.

At this point it’ll be taking the head back off to replace valves and the camshafts, a timing chain, and removing the oil pan so I can clean all the metal out again.
 
It does suck but at least I got to drive it almost 12 miles before it happened :lol:. After thinking about it last night, I’m going to send this head off to a machine shop and make sure that the camshaft journals are within spec and the camshaft is truly level. I’m worried that there may be a machining issue that caused the camshaft to bind that wasn’t apparent during assembly.

The other good news is that I have no transmission shift codes but I do have one for the temp sensor. I’ll have to mess around with the temp sensor resistor to get it to go away once it’s running again. I do plan to strip the front end apart and fix the body damage that was bothering me. Plus the sector shaft from the steering box is leaking ATF so that’ll get fixed.
 
It does suck but at least I got to drive it almost 12 miles before it happened :lol:. After thinking about it last night, I’m going to send this head off to a machine shop and make sure that the camshaft journals are within spec and the camshaft is truly level. I’m worried that there may be a machining issue that caused the camshaft to bind that wasn’t apparent during assembly.
While the head is at the shop have then do their voodoo to the valve shims and make sure they are adjusted correctly.
 
While the head is at the shop have then do their voodoo to the valve shims and make sure they are adjusted correctly.
I’ll make sure to have them do it. I need to order all new buckets from Toyota anyways as the way this head was built, it uses the buckets as the shim so the only way to do a valve adjustment is with replacing the buckets and I’m not fan of that.
 
I contacted the company I bought the head from. I don’t have high hopes of a warranty. They seem to want to blame it on the oil pump and asked for photos to see if it was rubbing on the cover. I also took a closer look and the camshaft cap #1 is trashed from it breaking. I know I had good oil pressure before starting. I had used a mechanical gauge to test it.

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IDK, that grain structure looks pretty damn big to me.

Did those cams come with the head?
 
The cams did come with the head. It was claimed to be a “new” head with all new parts but yet the buckets are crap, the casting is crap. The amount of casting flash that was left was inexcusable imo. I bought it because it was cheap and I was hoping to have better luck.
 
For those who have ordered from Amayama or PartSouq, have you had luck with getting parts when only one of them says it’s available? Amayama says they have all the camshaft components but when I use the part number in PartSouq I get that there’s zero availability.

I’m thinking of ordering all the parts to assemble a new Toyota head from one of them but I don’t want to order it all and only get 1/3 of the parts.
 

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