Builds Good Ole Rusty (1 Viewer)

[Redgrrr]

Cut off the tub from the cowl back and tube that 40 out, add suspension seats and re-seal the drivetrain

That's the plan with this rusty turd I have, eventually. Your starting with way nicer parts, I'm envious.

Plus your seats gotta be way better than these!

 

[rusty_tlc]

Under the Wamart seat covers my seats look about the same .

 

[Redgrrr]

Nice!
Sub'ed for inspiration to get going on mine!

Got any pics to share?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Always fix what's broken then build.

Rebuild wrap bar. It's a small enough job Chicago might help you.

Get air lockers re-sealed.

Buy a new ARB compressor. The new ones are small, fit easily, work fine.

With a working rig-Rewire it. Seriously, rewiring my FJ40 with a totally new harness (Kwik-wire) improved every running aspect.

Keep an eye out for a tub. Your body is shot. Either that or you need A LOT more bondo.

Likewise fit some junque yard seats. I got a set of Subaru seats for $50.

Things I would not do:

SM420
Hydro assist steering
Odball military tires
Worry too much about leaks
Fit FJ60 axles unless you plan to drive it a lot more.



Last dose of reality. You could part it out and move on. I'll bet someone would buy your drive train complete.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Good advice Andy.
Parting it out is not an option. Now that I'm employed again I can start using the truck more often.

I think what I need to do now is make a list and prioritize it.

 

[bsilva132]

There is a pretty decent 1975 tub for sale on Sacramento craigslist right now. No affliation.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4783225097.html

 

[rusty_tlc]

There is a pretty decent 1975 tub for sale on Sacramento craigslist right now. No affliation.
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/4783225097.html

Interesting, they say it's a 75 but it has a tailgate?

 

[Redgrrr]

FST tub? Or they added a tailgate to replace the barn doors

That one looked clean, worth about $500 with hardware. The tub doesn't have the chain retention bolts on the tailgate opening or the correct soft door hinges. I also don't see the soft top bow brackets at the rear of the tub either.

For $2200 you can buy a non running 40 in my opinion, others may disagree.

 

[bsilva132]

In the last year the cost FJ40's have gone way up in the area. I still think that was is too high though imo.

 

[rusty_tlc]

So here is what I have in mind;
1 - pull out all the aftermarket wires and replace the stuff I still need, the OEM harness is in good shape so no need to screw with that
2 - make a plan for the wrap bar; the diff side connection is just waiting to fail, it needs to be beefed up and the cross bar the other end attaches to needs some more beef.
3 - I hate the Advanced adaptor "propeller" support. I want to make a new cross member that attaches to the Marlin crawl box possibly include some kind of skid plate in this.
4 - re-seal the ARB lockers, run new lines to replace the old brittle ones.
5 - replace the seats or refurbish them
6 - repair the sill plate and trim some of the more offensive rusty panels off for a "competition" cut look repair the rest as required
7 - I realllly want OBA and I lean towards a mechanical solution. I'd like to shoe horn in the Sanden someplace.
8 - add a secure place to mount my ham radio and other electronics.
9 - replace the mix and match springs.

 

[rusty_tlc]

So this is the first step
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1984-fj60-reno-nv.835242/

 

[farpolemiddle]

Cut and Turn, Fix anti wrap bar, rewire, fix leaks/lockers, and a after market alum 45 bed. Thats what I would do and in that order. Oh and I would just slap some gel seat covers on and replace those wheels as well.

 

[chicago]

Dan,
Knowing what I do about that rim and tire set up... Those HAVE TO GO!!
You started breaking more and more after you got that set up. They're SOOOOO DAMN HEAVY!
That lil HF wire feed would be good for body panel work. Just a thought, there, and sheet metal is pretty economical as compared to pre fabbed panels.
Re. The wrap bar... go w/ the ruff stuff kit, bring that pile over and well weld it up.
It'd be nice to wheel w/ you again.
The wiring.... That's all YOU!! You should be able to whip that out in NO TIME.

 

[RAYJON]

70$ a sheet for 18 ga, and one sheet is enough to do a truck, you will also need a piece of 2 1/4 square tube for the sill.. maybe 120$ in steel, . .

 

[rusty_tlc]

Dan,
Knowing what I do about that rim and tire set up... Those HAVE TO GO!!
You started breaking more and more after you got that set up. They're SOOOOO DAMN HEAVY!
That lil HF wire feed would be good for body panel work. Just a thought, there, and sheet metal is pretty economical as compared to pre fabbed panels.
Re. The wrap bar... go w/ the ruff stuff kit, bring that pile over and well weld it up.
It'd be nice to wheel w/ you again.
The wiring.... That's all YOU!! You should be able to whip that out in NO TIME.

The HF wire feed is AC, from what I'm reading flux core WF wants to see DC electrode negative. I know how to convert it to DC but IMHO that would be throwing away money.

 

[Mace]

AC is flux, AC/DC is mig

 

[chicago]

I really believe that getting a decent donor body would be far easier than doing the body work you need to do...
Crap takes a LOOOONG damn time.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Good Bye old friend

 

[rusty_tlc]

New tires and wheels on order.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

AC is flux, AC/DC is mig

and here I thought ac/dc was a group...