Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (2 Viewers)

[Rainman]

Done.

 

[Vae Victus]

Building up parts for the rolling chassis. My wife gave me an early 23rd anniversary gift Friday.

OME kit, soft. Greaseable shackles.

Just have to find some time to finish the rear axle. Needs final blasting and paint.

Gotta get the frame blasted. Need to decide on taking it two hours away to get it hot galvanized or cheat and blast it then powder coat it. I keep going back and forth.

 

[Weber Sarge]

If the galv shop has a good reputation , go for it . No need for regret , powder does/will fail - galv is used on bridges outside in the salt elements and weather - consider that heavily .
Sarge

 

[Jdc1]

Vae Victus, I really admire your work and dedication and am using your rebuild as inspiration. I am a few weeks away from dropping my frame off to be powder coated. I was talking to the coater and he had mentioned e-coating as yet another option. He likes it because it is thinner than powder but coats everything including inside the boxed sections. I am seriously considering this for my rebuild. He mentioned that he could even do my tub after I have the rust repair complete.

 

[Rainman]

Powder coating can't guarantee total coverage on a totally boxed frame. I've already told you that though...

 

[Jdc1]

Powder coating can't guarantee total coverage on a totally boxed frame. I've already told you that though...

That is the reason why my coater prefers the dipped e-coat as it coats everywhere.

 

[Vae Victus]

That is the reason why my coater prefers the dipped e-coat as it coats everywhere.

JDC, is the e-coat a synonym (wow, big word) for the galvanizing process or another process?

 

[Jdc1]

It's a method of delivering any coating. From my limited research(3 kids under 7) it can be used to deliver primer or a finish coat of "paint". I have only briefly talked to him about it but he was saying it will outperform powder for corrosion and was another if not a better option because it reaches the blind areas of whatever is being dipped.

Another benefit I see would be for the tub. We have a company in Toledo that is doing large, non acidic rust removal dip. Pair that with the e-coat and I will be able to remove all rust (inside seams, body mounts etc.) and then with the ecoat protect where a spray gun can't reach. Then do my body work and paint.

The main reason that I have been leaning towards the powder is the cost savings. I do not have a place to sandblast my frame. Our powder coaters are within a few hundred of just having it sandblasted. They also include the zinc rinse for that price.

 

[Vae Victus]

I finished the rear axle blasting this PM. Looks better in photos than in real life, but it's clean and ready to be painted.

I put the first coat of phosphoric acid on it to keep the rust at bay. I'll wash it, sand a bit, recoat again and let it dry, wash it off, dry it, and POR it 2 coats, then overcoat with Rusoleum brushed on.

Next, rebuild the rear diff, clean the grit that got into the axle while blasting even though I taped and covered the ends. VtgBeemer kept warning me about this - "Don't blast rotating parts." I wish I'd listen.

This little Pot blaster is kinda slow, but I can blast all day without stopping (except to refill about every 45 min). The air from the compressor keeps up nicely though I'm blasting at around 80 PSI. Took me about an hour today and about 1.5 hours previously.

You don't want to do the frame with it, but I only used about 30# of media, and was able to sweep up about 10# though I wasn't trying to save it.

 

[roma042987]

looks great buddy! I need to invest in a blaster myself as im gathering parts for my next project. There is a place in Mississippi that does the e coating for Nissan and also does new truck frames. I looked into getting tuckers tub ecoated but the cost they quoted was astronomical. so all his panels, hood, hardtop sides fenders etc. were powder coated then painted. the tub was just painted no powder coat.

 

[Vae Victus]

looks great buddy! I need to invest in a blaster myself as im gathering parts for my next project. There is a place in Mississippi that does the e coating for Nissan and also does new truck frames. I looked into getting tuckers tub ecoated but the cost they quoted was astronomical. so all his panels, hood, hardtop sides fenders etc. were powder coated then painted. the tub was just painted no powder coat.

What color did you powder coat those panels? Why did you choose to powder coat instead of primer? How did they look before paint?

 

[roma042987]

The powder coating was all done for free so anything and everything got coated. We blasted powder coated black then primed and painted with base coat clear coat just for extra durability

 

[Vae Victus]

Couple coats of POR. Man I hate this stuff.

 

[Rainman]

AhahaAHhaHaAaaaa...

 

[hecrod]

Couple coats of POR. Man I hate this stuff.

View attachment 1010049

But it works!

 

[roma042987]

If it's not too late try applying the por with a sponge brush it really makes all the difference and the product goes much further in terms of coverage

 

[Vae Victus]

If it's not too late try applying the por with a sponge brush it really makes all the difference and the product goes much further in terms of coverage

I'll try that. I've been able to use the same brush 3 times now, but I do keep losing paint cans due to adhesion of the lid, even though I'm pretty careful to clean the rim. Mineral Spirits cleans it up well, and thins it well.

Ok, so maybe that one isn't so clean!

 

[vtgbeemer]

Next time you open a fresh can of POR do not allow any paint to get on the can rim. I always dip out what I need instead of pouring. I also lay a piece of saran-wrap over the opening before pressing the lid on. It keeps the lid from sticking. If I am using quarts, once I get down to under a half full can, I transfer what remains into a fresh pint can eliminating as much air space as possible. As expensive as POR15 is I try not to waste any.

 

[Weber Sarge]

You can preserve your leftover POR if you have a welder or access to inert gas like CO2 or Argon . If you use the welder's nozzle or torch to fill the can with gas - please be very careful and do not ground the can to welder in any matter - the stuff is flammable and can ignite if the welder tries to start an arc . Argon works best and is heavier than air so it will push the oxygen out of the can . Use plastic wrap under the lid and hammer it back down tightly . I've stored mine for over a year and the leftover is just fine .
Sarge

 

[Vae Victus]

Next time you open a fresh can of POR do not allow any paint to get on the can rim. I always dip out what I need instead of pouring. I also lay a piece of saran-wrap over the opening before pressing the lid on. It keeps the lid from sticking. If I am using quarts, once I get down to under a half full can, I transfer what remains into a fresh pint can eliminating as much air space as possible. As expensive as POR15 is I try not to waste any.

You can preserve your leftover POR if you have a welder or access to inert gas like CO2 or Argon . If you use the welder's nozzle or torch to fill the can with gas - please be very careful and do not ground the can to welder in any matter - the stuff is flammable and can ignite if the welder tries to start an arc . Argon works best and is heavier than air so it will push the oxygen out of the can . Use plastic wrap under the lid and hammer it back down tightly . I've stored mine for over a year and the leftover is just fine .
Sarge

Thanks for the tips guys. Saran Wrap is smart! Love the Argon tip. Just got an extra tank of 75/25.

I thought Argon was inert [off to research].