RCV axles / joints - what breaks? (1 Viewer)

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I love how cheap Toyota crap is. Basically this same kit for rockwells is almost $2000. :)
 
I love how cheap Toyota crap is. Basically this same kit for rockwells is almost $2000. :)

I wouldn't call that hub kit cheap. Half of that would get you a 14 bolt rear axle.
 
I emailed Trail gear about those hubs with some questions and their response is a little confusing. Maybe ya'll can help me translate:

Me: "I see the studless hubs and chromo spindles for steering axles on your site for Toyota trucks but not the FJ60's. I would think they would work on the 60's though? What width would the hubs put me at? IFS width?"

TG: "They are factory dimensions. They do not add any width. They would work on a FJ40/60 axle as long as it has a “ mini truck conversion”, which is everything from the knuckle ball out off of a 79-85 solid axle. We have not done any installs on FJ’s, I couldn’t tell you if it would be a direct replacement fit."

This is confusing to me since they have the hubs listed for both IFS and solid fronts which have different wheel flange offsets. So which one do they not add any width to? And I thought FJ outers WERE Mini outers? What is a "mini truck conversion?"
 
OK, so they are solid front copies, not IFS. The IFS listing was a mistake.
 
I've actually found some conversion bearings that should work for getting the d44 hub on the Toyota spindle. But bearing spacing and stub shaft length are variables that I have no info on. I don't suppose any of that is on this site hiding somewhere?

I've got a d44 at the shop and will have my FJ60 fronts soon. But if its already posted somewhere that would be even easier if only to eliminate the possibility. I'm sure there's a reason TG does a completely custom hub instead of just throwing d44 hubs on. But a little R&D never hurt me.

Incidentally, in terms of spindle dia., a Toyota is closer to d60 dimensions than d44. Just the bearing OD's of the d44 are closer to the Toyta's, the 60's are way bigger.
 
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Rock midget on pirate built that low budget pimpin buggy with rear steer, as far as I know his biggest issue was the knuckles, he upgrades to six shooter knuckles and cromo axles and has not reported any breakage. Same type of buggy you are talking about, light...
 
I don't see how they are stronger than 80 series drive flanges though, especially the TG chromoly ones? If the only advantage that there aren't the small studs, I would think chromo flanges and upgraded bolts instead of toyota studs should be just as strong. That's what I plan on taking to the trail and swapping out the Aisins for at the trailhead.
 
This is a build a local guy did . I am very interested in seeing how well the rear holds up ? I have found that it is not the hubs that are the weak link . When you upgrade the studs to ARP's and run the chromoly hub gears , the birfeild joints themselves become the weak link . We used to break studs when Longs first came out but now it's 9 times out of ten the birfs that explode ( or 8" R&P's ) first .
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...ohny5s-single-seat-transaxle-buggy-build.html
 
I decided after reading Mark Algazy's writings on breakages that I would much rather be breaking birfields than anything else. I am considering running chromo inner front shafts with stock birfields if it's possible.
 
sure it's possible.. I would not do it tho .. but sure it is possible .. Nitro offers that .. ( justdifferentials.com )
 
I'm with Tapage. Blown birfields can break steering caps, trunion bearings, inner axle seals and screw up inner axle shafts. I'd either run all stock or all chromo, not a mixture.
 
Chromo birfs with stock inners would allow breakage without any major damage to the rest of the axle.
 
Ok, good I didn't try that then :)
 
Where is Mark's write-up on axle breakage?
 
Somewhere on his site, I think it's on the page where he writes a little bit about every Cruiser system.
 

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