oestlarsen
SILVER Star
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (68 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Cleaned speed odometer, wasn't rolling over miles, tenths was working. Put roll bar back in, added a couple alpine speakers and a kenwood stereo. Removed wiper switch, cleaned put back in, only getting low speed action, will look at motor next.
murf
Lifer
Its amazing how hardened the old speedo grease becomes and restricts the odo movement. I did the same.
Nice 40 KyH
Josie'sLandCruiser
Stop calling it a "FJ."
Hi all,
Cut-off the bashed-up driver's side front fender, next step is to mount-up the replacement, tube fender.
Regards,
Alan
Cut-off the bashed-up driver's side front fender, next step is to mount-up the replacement, tube fender.
Regards,
Alan
nelsonjm624
1973 FJ40, 2F, 3 Spd, Wilwood f/r, 31x10.5R15
Been working on the dreaded dimples in the rear quarter panels all of the patches are in need to finish burning em in.
trying to wire in a manual cooling fan switch. My painless wire kit has a cooling fan B+ and a cooling fan wires. Not sure which to hook to the switch. On the switch is two terminals I assume a ground is one. The switch is not lighted.
Finished installing roof after paint.......
Ive been DD-ing mine the last few weeks in between trips. Up until today its been cold but dry. Well today that changed, turns out the windshield wipers don't make a difference when the rain is on the inside, haha.
Ive been DD-ing mine the last few weeks in between trips. Up until today its been cold but dry. Well today that changed, turns out the windshield wipers don't make a difference when the rain is on the inside, haha.
Sounds like you need to remove two wheels and call it a motorcycle. I didn't ride my bike very much in the wet. It was miserable trying to see through the face shield when I couldn't tell whether the moisture was on the inside or outside, sometimes it was both.
Don
Installed a Bestop, thanks for the deal, Tor !
just a couple pictures for now.
Ordered my suspension gussets from Cruisersolutions.
Drove my 100 series while waiting (still) for my buddy to come help me install the hard top. It's cold enough it's been at least 45 days since I drove the FJ40. Grrr...
78fj40mg
TLCA #23510
So, let me get this straight, what you've done to your cruiser today is to complain about your buddy not showing up to help you install the hard top? Sorry but I don't think this qualifies as having done something to your cruiser.
How do you know that your buddy didn't show up?
Maybe he did show up while you were out driving your 100 series.
Why didn't you drive the FJ40 if it was so cold? I guess because there's no hardtop? That's no excuse.
Got Heat?
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GA Architect
SILVER Star
Just replace my 40's worn out inner boot for the transfer shifter. Purchased a used FJ60 boot, and cut it to fit.
Old:
New:
Prep:
Installed:
Old:
New:
Prep:
Installed:
Is the FJ60 boot new or used?
Got my Brake Master, Clutch Master, and Clutch Slave back from having been sleeved in stainless.
I'm most impressed with the standard of work and with the speedy turnaround too:
I'm most impressed with the standard of work and with the speedy turnaround too:
Tom, where did you get the stainless sleeves? Did the shop make them or is there a supplier?
Hit there Skip.
Originally I was thinking of doing the sleeving work myself. But there's no doubt in my mind now that to do it well is a specialist job (and I doubt I could ever have achieved the standard of machining work I got here).
This job was done by a crowd called CBC that's based here in New Zealand but in the city of Christchurch which is located in a different island to me. (So the bare cylinders were couried to and fro.)
I didn't know anything at all about them but I kinda liked the feelings I got about them when I viewed their tiny website:
http://www.toresleeve.co.nz/
Ooops. Damn! Looks like they've upgraded their website since I visited it. No wonder they're growing though.. Word of their "engineering excellence" would no doubt be spreading rapidly. The little website I saw before simply described a laid-back group of people who got into this line of business from their own DIY-work in restoring a few old British cars.
I'm not aware of anyone anywhere in the world selling short lengths of thin-wall seamless 3/4", 7/8" and 1" accurate-bore stainless steel tubing for DIY work. And even if you found such a supplier, I doubt it'd be cheap.
And I wish I could show you the precisioness (if there is such a word) of their machining work!
Look at the tiny holes they've had to drill into brake master without leaving any burrs on the internal bore:
That tiny hole actually puzzles me. Before I sent the master off I saw it there, poked a needle into it, and thought it was a dead-end. (Well there's actually two of these holes in this master and I thought they were both dead-ends.) So I thought it wouldn't matter if the machinist completely ignored them (and left them as dead-ends) in their sleeving work. But of course, as you can partially see, they didn't ignore them at all and in fact drilled them right through.
But within the clutch they went to much more trouble still to bring the outlet hole into the very top of the bore. In fact it appears to me that they actually pushed/locked in two separate stainless sleeves (one behind the other) into that cylinder with the joint between the two lining up with the outlet-hole to form a "ring-groove". This circumferential-groove worried me at first, until I looked at the piston-seals and found they don't ever go in that far.
PS. This sleeving workhas been quite a learning curve for me and I'm tempted to start a thread on subject of "stainless sleeving of brake/clutch hydraulics" just to share it all and maybe get some of the questions in head answered...
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