OEM vs. Aftermarket, when it's OK (2 Viewers)

[MatS]

I love OEM parts, and that's also being a mechanic in another brand dealership. I fix lots of cars with aftermarket parts that just don't work.

On my Hilux it's got OEM timing belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump... not cheap but not worth the risk.
Hoses aren't going OEM because I plan on running silicone hoses and heater hose.
Radiator I would have bought but couldn't find, ended up getting the brass OEM rad rebuilt instead of plastic tanks.
Gaskets and seals have all be replaced with OEM parts.
Brake master cylinder and Clutch master have both been replaced by OEM parts, stamped Aisin.
Brake lines are stainless so no OEM option.
Oil filter and Fuel filters are all OEM.

My only beef so far with getting Toyota OEM stuff is the price of replacing my clutch/plate/flywheel components. Probably going the way of Marlin for that when I get around too it.

The fact is... OEM parts just plain work. That's for Toyota, Volkswagen or any other brand you might come across.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

There are a lot of parts that are equal to OEM but it's not worth my effort to write a list because I'm in a different marketplace to the majority and it wouldn't be worth the effort. - Unless someone has a specific part request.

For a part that is still available from Toyota but is worse than aftermarket is the Voltage Regulator. Toyota 27700-63010, Nippon Denso 026000-4052
http://www.tojo4wdcentre.com.au/par...tor-for-alternator-voltage-hilux-4runner-7-91

 

[pappy]

My only beef so far with getting Toyota OEM stuff is the price of replacing my clutch/plate/flywheel components. Probably going the way of Marlin for that when I get around too it.

Not sure what you mean. Marlin HD clutch kit is $219.

Prices from a discount dealer:

NEW OEM clutch is $278.39.
REMAN OEM clutch is $186.37.

Prices are for my 1985 22RE and include disk, cover, TO bearing, pilot bearing.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Excellent and interesting thread. I am almost entirely converted to OEM. The brake parts have been way better than aftermarket. Everything fits and lines up exactly. I am often hundreds of kilometres from pavement, towtrucks, garages, etc, in the Chilcotins, the Stikine, Yukon, etc, so I carry things like spare starters, alternators, and a host of other things. Sometimes the OEM price hurts, especially in Canada, but everything seems to last longer. When I have time, I try to get Cruiser Dan to send things to the border. Saves a fair amount. I have a few aftermarket parts: engnbldr head and timing cover. Good so far. (at least 40,000 ks) Fuel pump is a question mark but it wasn't me who installed it. Still have the original and a spare. Bumper is now ARB. Wires are NGK. Suspension is the next project, and it will be aftermarket.

 

[BManga]

I wanted to share my views on the subject. Interesting discussion! Our situation of course is a bit different and isolated to the Toyota parts on our 2100 lbs buggy which are only 4runner/truck axles. Still some of u may find it very interesting non the less. Let me start by saying I don't upgrade parts just because unless there are obvious armor needs and/or safety related items to handle of course. I upgrade parts usually when they no longer handle the application at hand aka they break to often.

Our 2100 lbs buggy started off on 42" Irocks then we switched to 37" BFG Krawler stickies. We ran stock shafts for 2 1/2 years with these tires before we broke our first birf and then upgraded to longs. We still run the OEM manual locking hubs, steering arms, knuckles, studs etc even with full hydro.

Weight absolutely has something to do with this as does our wheeling style and lack of HP even with a 134:1 crawl ratio. We are strategic "tip toeing" wheelers but we do a lot of extreme wheeling so don't think its simple stuff. I have vids but that's not the reason for the thread unless u need them for better context of our wheeling style....

Anyways, we'll be running WEROCK in this thing in 2015 and I don't plan on changing our plans any however we do have and are acquiring a bit more of a stock pile of OEM parts. Of course if we find a certain part we continue to break then we'll determine if upgrading it is the best thing to do based on where we want the "fuse-able" link to be and what is easier to quickly fix in the pits between runs.

I guess my point is in some scenarios the OEM part(s) work absolutely fine and even better at times so knowing ur scenario well before simply replacing/upgrading them may be rewarding and save u some $. Now I know some do the upgrades for other reasons maybe like; not wanting to find the weak links and/or don't want to or can't deal with trail fixes etc... Variables for ur scenario maybe different and mileage may very. Here but I just wanted to point out our scenario to make ya'll think on it. Now for OEM parts on Toyota DDs or mainly Toyota Trail rigs I got nothin! Lol! I can however share thoughts on OEM Jeep and a few other manufactures though......

Again, good conversation!

 

[hiluxjeremy]

An interesting thread.

I feel the reputation for every day reliability and ends of the earth toughness that Toyota vehicles have earned was built on the parts they left the factory with.

Quality is rarely cheap. But cost isn't a sure indicator of quality either.

Warranties are fine and good, but to be useful a part must first fail. And if that part should fail far, far away from anything, or anyone, things may look grim indeed.

I only own one vehicle, I've also wheeled it in a lot of crazy places, and continue to do so. I maintain it almost fanatically, and consequently it has never let me down. Its oem all the way, except in a circumstance where an aftermarket part can improve on oem with the right blend quality and performance, without losing anything. I run Old Man Emu springs, with Bilsteins for example. My trail rig is also my daily driver, road trip machine, beast of burden, whatever the task. Some parts also can't be found at the local parts store for any price.

I've used plenty of aftermarket parts on other vehicles I've owned. Intended application is key, if your sticking close to the cozy glow of civilization, or simply not pushing your vehicle beyond the norm failures are a lot less of an issue. Also, like it or not cost can be the deciding factor. I know what thats like too.

I've also used the first person "I" a whole lot on here. After all, my opinion isnt worth any more than the next.

 

[Mudder]

What's the general thought on spark plug wires? I'm going to run NGK's at they're ~$25 verses the ~$82 for them from the dealership in my town. I just find that way to much for wires.

 

[snobdds]

NGK's are fine, I used those on my dad's 91 22re hunting truck. The resistance check out at the OEM specs.

The ones I took off were the originals from 91 (still had the date on the wire), and I did this about 3 years ago. So they were about 20-21 years old...and guess what, those checked out at OEM specs. So they're now the spare set in the truck. That attests to the quality of the part.

I think were lucky Toyota made the Truck/4runner of this vintage a rebuildable item, instead of consumable. Parts were made to be rebuilt, not replaced. I like having to just carry new brass contacts for the starter, instead of a complete starter. My small little parts box in the truck can fix a whole lot of stuff. That is something modern vehicles can't touch.

 

[Mudder]

So what are thoughts on Toyota antifreeze. I see it on amazon for $26 when I can go get some from my local Walmart for $8 that cools my truck just fine.

 

[KLF]

All I ever use is Toyota red.

The $26 one you see is the Super Long Life stuff, already premixed. Better deal is to get the Long Life stuff, $37 a gallon, then mix it with a gallon of distilled water, so you get 2 gallons.

 

[Mudder]

But is there really a difference? People may say so but what makes Toyota Red better then the Walmart stuff? I fully agree OEM is better on some things. But I never thought it would be for anti freeze.

 

[Jonathan_Ferguson]

I've changed over to Red Organic Additive Technology without problem on my Hilux and my brother's 2004 Honda Civic.

 

[pappy]

My 10 cent opinion on coolant. I run Prestone green. Reason, it's not compatible with Toyota red, I don't care what the bottle says. It's makes mud when the two are mixed. If I'm out and about, say in Mexico, and I need an emergency bottle of coolant, I know for a fact I can find the green stuff anyplace on the planet. The Toyota red, not so much.

When I built my 2FE engine, I asked this question of the parts manager at my local dealer. Oh, my local parts manager is CruiserDan. He told me to run the green stuff. I've since learned that with the cast iron head on top of a cast iron block the red stuff not necessary. I've never had a coolant issue with the green stuff in my 22re engines even though the block is iron, and the head aluminum. But, it's your money.

 

[OGBeno]

I run the green stuff too in all three of my Toyota's.

 

[Mudder]

^now that says something

 

[snobdds]

My 88 22re was purchased brand new with the green stuff in it...

 

[Len Miller]

What about a windshield? The one for my 1983 SR5 is not made any more. It had a special smoked tint at the top. It's not made anymore, but I can get an after market?

 

[pappy]

All of my windshields have been aftermarket. Not sure how much an OEM would be.

 

[OGBeno]

A point of reference: I installed an OEM windshield in my FJ60 two years ago. It was *NOT* cheap. Luckily, insurance paid for it.

 

[KLF]

Had to dredge up this thread to leave my weekend tale of woe, and whine about learning another lesson about cheap aftermarket parts. I am guilty again, and I paid for it the hard way.

My daughter's '08 Corolla is at my house now while she is deployed, and I drive it about once a week or so, usually on Fridays. This Friday, as I was pulling into the parking lot at work (7 mile commute), I smelled burning brakes. Walked around the car, right front wheel was smoking hot. Literally smoking. I could feel the heat from the rotor. Obviously I was dealing with a stuck caliper. I had put new pads on it last summer, but AFAIK these are the factory calipers, 140K miles. I nursed it home at the end of the day, drive for a bit, let it cool, took me 90 minutes to make the drive.

Hop in the truck Saturday morning to head to NAPA to get the parts. I have bought quite a few calipers from NAPA with good results, I trust them. 2 miles up the road, I smell brakes again. WTF?? Pull over, SAME WHEEL, SAME PROBLEM. How can this happen? Nurse it home, hop in the wife's car, go get the Corolla parts. Very easy fix, the pads were still in great shape so I swapped them over but I didn't trust the toasted rotor so it got changed out. Very nice caliper, loaded with the bracket and all hardware, $57.

Pull the truck into the garage, pull it apart. Pistons in the RF caliper are totally seized, can't move them with my biggest C-clamp. These calipers are only 18 months old, maybe 10,000 miles on them. I dug through my papers, and found I bought them from Advance Auto, I can't remember why, but I seem to remember I had some sort of coupon. The "lifetime warranty" should have been a give-away that they are garbage, but I had carefully cleaned them and painted them with some nice Rustoleum caliper paint to keep them from rusting. POS, this really pisses me off.

Took it back this morning with the original receipt, plunked it on the counter: no refunds, only exchange for the same part. The guy was shocked that I had my receipt, which I guess is how they get away with the "lifetime" warranty, nobody saves receipts, so no proof of purchase. I'll put their POS replacement on for now, but the entire axle and front suspension gets rebuilt this summer, when I'll get new calipers again.

And the FJ60 rotors I bought from AutoZone are all warped to hell now. Not sure where to get good rotors...