Welding Table (1 Viewer)

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GLTHFJ60

GLTHFJ60

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Started building a welding table for my garage finally! Used the upper dimensions of 5'x3' for the table top and then set the frame in 4" from the edges of the table. Legs are 3' tall, then the runners are 4' long and 2' long respectively. Bottom runners are elevated 6" from the bottom of the legs. Had the majority of the cuts done by the steel yard I picked up the 2x2x1/8" wall tube from.

I'm posting this thread up because I need ideas for "essentials" of any good welding table. I'm thinking hooks for my grinders, maybe a mounted power strip for them as well, slots in the middle for clamping purposes and finally mounting a good vice on one corner. To make it mobile, I want to do something like the Home Depot rolling staircases, where you have a foot activated lever to extend the casters down, and then after pressing the lever again, the staircase drops down and rests on the floor. I still need to come up with that design.

I'm hoping y'all have some good ideas for me!

Here's what I've done thus far (top is not welded to the frame, nor is the frame fully welded at this point):

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Looks good Johnny,

Dont weld hooks... They are a PITA, just weld a piece of strap or angle iron to rest/cradle your grinder heads on underneath the top. Drill a fewholes in it for punches, etc... forks for hammers...Depending on how you set things up.. a couple of lower mounted torch holders/ holsters (2" pipe) to stow the torch/nozzle when not in use.

Drill a few 1/2" holes in a grid on the top and then take cheaper long vise grips, cut the lower jaw off and weld 1/2" bolt or pencil rod onto and use as "doggers" to secure things to the table.. We all know that the edge is only good for 80% of what we weld/secure things to.

I love having a vise... BUT, I clamp mine down as I need it... Will eventually make a plate and 2" receiver for easy on/off to keep it out of my way..

J, the sky is the limit... and imagination and improvision is mandatory... You will find that building a second table is in the near future and a 3rd is close behind the 2nd.. HA!

J
 
GLTHFJ60,

reevesci has offered some great ideas, I have four different types of welding tables. All four serve different applications, but my go to table is simple portable and easy to work on (4'x8'). It sits on smooth casters that lock but not lowered to floor at any point. It's also serves as a tear down table for heavy automotive components. I did weld a receiver to one end of it for those special jigs (third member holder,vice etc). Claps, squares as well as protractors are kept on this table for easy access. My second main table is open 90% and built from 1/4"x 4"x 4" angel. It's portable as well and allows for clamping as well as bottom access. Very seldom are squares required on this table as all perpendicular supports are dead nuts. This table measures 4' x 12' I built this table back in 1996 so you can imagine how flat this table is from the years of facing with a 9" grinder (flat grinding) after each project.
The third table is a dedicated "Jig or fixture table" that we use only for production of our patented products. This tables top is 3/4" flat and has many things welded to the surface for multi purpose steps. This table is only 60" x 24" and on casters as well. The last table is fixed and lives next to the tig station. nothing fancy 6' x 5' flat 1/2" top.

If I only had room for one and did not need a production table I would settle for the first table mentioned. Simple and multi purpose. Sure you can mount holders for grinders and power receptacles, but it can get too busy in a hurry. I prefer to only keep items like clamps (all sorts) handy. Make sure all your corners are square and the top is as flat as possible. This will make for layout and fabrication much easier.

Sorry for the long post, but a table is the difference between a poor quality project and a sore back vs the desired outcome.
Good luck and keep them photos coming.

Peace,
PN
 
kinda late but with higher bottom runner you can make it a shelf and keep some frequent use items there .. lucky you have plenty space for a welding table I barely have enough for my work bench .. ( which will be my welding table too ).

I can see this in my north ..

http://store.millerwelds.com/commerce/product?ProdID=300837

have you ting in a small vice for your table ...? I found 'em quite useful ..
 
Receivers are a great idea (I have been wanting to do this also), one for the chop saw and on the other end an extendable/adjustable receiver for a roller head..:hmm:
 
Looks good Johnny. I really need to build one too, but will need to add some wheels to it since I have minimal room in the garage and have to move crap around before and after every project.
 
davegonz said:
Looks good Johnny. I really need to build one too, but will need to add some wheels to it since I have minimal room in the garage and have to move crap around before and after every project.
Click to expand...
I agree with dave, it looks great. building a welding table is a much better option than buying the reproduction crap they are selling now.
I too move crap around for a half hour before i can get to work.
 
(dad4x4) I too move crap around for a half hour before i can get to work.

(davegonz) but will need to add some wheels to it since I have minimal room in the garage and have to move crap around before and after every project.


I feel your pain guys, I operated out of my house shop for 16 years before I decided to make the expansion.
I will still build tables and such on casters, heck most of the machines I own sit on casters.

Kinda hard to see the entire old work space, but theres a reason for working on the 40 front axel outside (and its not because I like to work in triple digits temps).



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davegonz said:
Looks good Johnny. I really need to build one too, but will need to add some wheels to it since I have minimal room in the garage and have to move crap around before and after every project.
Click to expand...

This is my problem right here. Too much stuff in too small of a space!! That's why my welding table isn't larger than it is and also why my welding table will need to roll.

This is the setup I'm thinking for casters. First pictures is with the casters down (able to roll) and second is with them up (stationary). The lever on the bottom presses the wheels down and when you step on the stair tread pushes that lever forward, which disengages the caster bar and allows them to pop down. I can't decide if this is going to be too complex or not, may just put a bolt to drive the casters down that I can run down with a ratchet.

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This is the thread that gave me the caster idea (first post)
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?78461-Welding-table-design-review

Now J, for clamping to the surface, were you talking about something like this, where I literally bolt the clamps to the work surface then clamp the work piece with the bolted clamps? If not, what were you talking about?

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?406901-New-Table/page2

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I would like to have clamp racks like this on the side. I think I'll do this, along with a receiver mounted to the side of the table to mount a bench grinder. I think I'll bolt the vice to the table top with some captive nuts so it can be easily removed if needed:

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What do we think about putting outlets or power strips on the welding table? That way I can plug the welding table in and then various tools to it, instead of running multiple cords?
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
What do we think about putting outlets or power strips on the welding table? That way I can plug the welding table in and then various tools to it, instead of running multiple cords
Click to expand...

I think this is a great idea. I have two work benches (made of wood) that i have outlets made into the front of. Very easy when you want to plug numerous tools in. My question is what size metal should the top be made out of? I know it depends on what you plan to do with it, though I wouldn't have anything bigger than an axle or equivalent weight should you error on the side of overbuilding? I think i'm going to pull the trigger on this and start buying material.
 
dad4x4 said:
I think this is a great idea. I have two work benches (made of wood) that i have outlets made into the front of. Very easy when you want to plug numerous tools in. My question is what size metal should the top be made out of? I know it depends on what you plan to do with it, though I wouldn't have anything bigger than an axle or equivalent weight should you error on the side of overbuilding? I think i'm going to pull the trigger on this and start buying material.
Click to expand...

All of the square tube you see in my table above is 2x2 1/8" wall. The top is two layers of sheet steel, IIRC 10 gauge? I got the sheet for ridiculously cheap ($40 for 5'x8') so that's what I'm using. If I decide it needs to be thicker, I can flatten the top and add another layer of 1/4" on top at a later date. I cannot imagine that the frame will leave something to be desired.

As for the power strip, I do have a nice three outlet drop cord in my ceiling now, so having a power strip on the bench may be redundant. Time will tell, that's a minor modification to make later on.

Next steps I need to take, maybe this weekend, will be to fully weld the frame and build the caster setup so that the table can roll. Once that's done, I will need to add braces to the top and bottom, weld in an expanded steel lower shelf and then the top. Then I can worry about a grinder rack, a clamp rack, clamp captured nuts for what I pictured above (still waiting for @reevesci to clarify), captured nuts for my vice and then a receiver for a bench grinder.

:bounce:
 
Johnny don't use threaded fixtures in the table.. Spatter, dirt, etc.. will clog them up..

Just drill a hole and then either buy something like this

c_clamp_a.gif


These are easy to make, just cut an arm off a vise grip or c-clamp and weld a piece of round bar stock to it. I recommend a minimum of 1/2" stock.

J
 
You always prefer the peg clamp system over the t-bolt slot system? Is there a reason why?

I can't decide which route to go.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
You always prefer the peg clamp system over the t-bolt slot system? Is there a reason why?

I can't decide which route to go.
Click to expand...


Peg systems are stronger and more precise IMO.. you can really get the clamp where ever it needs to be instead of moving the piece where the slide tracks are. Sliding has its benefits as long as the workpiece lies in its paths..

You can also use the peg system as a mock up and dimensioning table. Roll bends up or down, etc... Pull the workpiece UP off the table with the help of peg stanchions.

Like P (Firestopper) says.. He has 4 tables each serves a different purpose. I have one main table and then two others for misc and combo work if needed. He has way more room than I do and I have more than you by far.

IMO, I think the sliding system will leave you short on more than one occasion in the long run. Now this is from a guy(s) that weld 8-10 hours a day. Extra hands are not available in my shop, just me. You would roll on the floor laughing at some of the things I've had to come up with over the years to layout a workpiece....

J
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Thanks J :cheers:
Click to expand...

I think I read you used two layers of 10 gauge for the top... = .2690" thickness if my math is right this early in the morning... So I'd think cutting tracks will weaken the table and "1/4" will tend to pull up and flex due to the long cuts MORE than a drilled hole will. Causing the table top to become untrue....

Sorry to be a killjoy on the sliding system, just my opinions man.

Have a great Thanksgiving.

J
 
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