High Milage 62- what should I look into? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BTUMAN
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WOW.....I have never seen a 62 that rolled over the odometer.......
- Thread starter
- #23
Either way I'm good. I either have the highest miled 89 or one of the lowest.
. Oops. Looks like a low one. 
I love what the fox says.
Jerk. This is the second time I've clicked on this thread, thinking i could be of assistance, ha.
That Car Fox seems like a likable and trust worthy character. What a find though, mama mia.
- Thread starter
- #26
If I did the math right that is 49 miles in the last 13.5 years. 3.63 miles per year.
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Ridiculous! Some guys have all the luck!!
- Thread starter
- #28
Sorry to be such a smarty-pants. Just having fun. I finally had time to wash her. I've got to get her to the next level- car show condition and hope to do so between now and Spring.
Must .... have .... more ... pics!
- Thread starter
- #30
All in due time....I must say the ride is like a new car. Smooth and tight. Makes me giggle. The tires may be 17 years old but are like new...no rot since it was indoors 13 years. Not sure if I really need to change them (other than they are smaller than I like). Factory was 225 and these are 235s. Want to go 31 10.5 15. Which look nicer but still stock look.
- Thread starter
- #32
Yes- not sure if I would call it a new car smell- but it does have the scent of Toyota interior- which is right up there with Kate Upton with coconut oil on a secluded beach......oh..sorry, I blacked out there for a minute.
I'll be starting with fluids, fuel, plugs, filters. Then to minor body dents or dings. Then under carriage and engine clean up. I would love to have input on things that may not be obvious to check from everyone's experience. I've refreshed a few, but never one that has so few miles.
The transmission fluid looks brand new and think I will leave it alone. Should I replace the diff fluids for the sake of it or just check? I don't think these type lubricants "go bad".
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mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
How about more pics?
- Thread starter
- #34
mongoose2231
Supporting Vendor
what a beauty!! good luck with it
If you drive it, and the diff fluids are clean (not milky from stirred up water), I'd leave them. 90wt. doesn't go bad, and your dry climate would help that, too. I would check the front wheel bearings (eventually) and probably replace inner hub seals, and just generally inspect all the guts inside the knuckles.
- Thread starter
- #37
Update: I was able to get the dents and dings all out and claybared it up. The paint is in amazing shape- looks really great now. I have not started the detailed stuff yet as I wanted to get this issue below fixed first.
Real help Needed:
So all fun aside, I really do need some input from the 62 gurus. With so many few miles (~200 in the last 13 years), she was running a bit rough. I started with fuel- drained the near 1/2 tank and replace with 93 octane. There was not any crud at all in the gas, but it was rather dark and smelled funny. I changed the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, etc and she is running much better after a few gallons of the good stuff made it through she ran better the more she was ran. I thought I was in good shape and she was running great.
I had not really driver her far or much to really even get her completely warmed up and when I finally did, came the fun low idle and die events so many have had. These typically start at a light with all the folks behind you freaking out. I read all the threads with theories from Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Fuel Pulsation Regulator (FPR), Fuel Pulsation Dampener, fuel pump and Idle Air Control Valve. Here is what happens:
1. Starts fine- maybe two seconds of ignition time turning the key when I think it should be about 1 (will clean or replace Cold Start Injector- not the issue here)
2. Warms up fine, slowing going from 1200 RPMs down to about 800 as it warms up. When turning AC on, it idles back up to about 1000. The temp gauge at this point is almost 1/4 warm.
3. Once it gets to about 1/4 warm (which I believe is full warm), the idle drops to about 700 and then down to just below that. Putting it under load (dropping the gear to drive with foot on break or real driving) and it begins to act like it is starving for fuel. It shutters a bit. You can flutter the gas and get it to go up maybe and then it will die.
4. After this happens, you can start it, it idles up and then goes right down and dies. You can do this 10 times and it just keeps doing it. You then can open the hood, let it cool down 5 min, and then it will start up, but will act up and you must feather it to keep it going until you get going on high RPM like down the road. ( I limped home the other day)
Tonight, I tried a few things as I suspected the Idle Air Control Valve. I started her up and let her come up to temp. I was able to replicate the same issue that happens while out driving. However, I had the hood open and the door open in my garage on a quiet night and when it died, I could hear a sort of tick-tak, tick- tak, tick- tak coming from somewhere in the engine bay (3 sequences in 3 secs right after it died). Since the engine would run for 2 secs after cranking, I ran over the motor and after two tries I found the Idle Air Control Valve making that noise. You could put your hand on it and hear and feel "clicking". So I unplugged it, took the key out, plugged it back in, and it started up and stayed idling. I thought, ah-ha! However, once I tuned it off, and restarted, it began the start- then die sequence again. Previously I checked for vacuum leaks with starting fluid trick and checked the air intake clamps and hose for cracks (like new of course).
So all this to ask, does this confirm the Idle Air Control Valve is bad or dirty? Is it supposed to make that noise? I am temped to just start throwing parts at it (all those mentioned above would be about $800) since it sat for so long and their could be gunk or corrosion and I would eliminate them all. I know I can get the FSM from somewhere and start applying voltages and bench test, but just thought I would ask before doing that. I don't have the FSM and from what I read, this issue is hard to diagnose. I want to begin to work on the fun things to get her in show room shape. I appreciate the knowledge here.
So, now we know that even if the LC only has 23,200 miles it still can have this issue that others seem to have had after the same number of years and not related to usage or mileage.
Real help Needed:
So all fun aside, I really do need some input from the 62 gurus. With so many few miles (~200 in the last 13 years), she was running a bit rough. I started with fuel- drained the near 1/2 tank and replace with 93 octane. There was not any crud at all in the gas, but it was rather dark and smelled funny. I changed the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, etc and she is running much better after a few gallons of the good stuff made it through she ran better the more she was ran. I thought I was in good shape and she was running great.
I had not really driver her far or much to really even get her completely warmed up and when I finally did, came the fun low idle and die events so many have had. These typically start at a light with all the folks behind you freaking out. I read all the threads with theories from Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Fuel Pulsation Regulator (FPR), Fuel Pulsation Dampener, fuel pump and Idle Air Control Valve. Here is what happens:
1. Starts fine- maybe two seconds of ignition time turning the key when I think it should be about 1 (will clean or replace Cold Start Injector- not the issue here)
2. Warms up fine, slowing going from 1200 RPMs down to about 800 as it warms up. When turning AC on, it idles back up to about 1000. The temp gauge at this point is almost 1/4 warm.
3. Once it gets to about 1/4 warm (which I believe is full warm), the idle drops to about 700 and then down to just below that. Putting it under load (dropping the gear to drive with foot on break or real driving) and it begins to act like it is starving for fuel. It shutters a bit. You can flutter the gas and get it to go up maybe and then it will die.
4. After this happens, you can start it, it idles up and then goes right down and dies. You can do this 10 times and it just keeps doing it. You then can open the hood, let it cool down 5 min, and then it will start up, but will act up and you must feather it to keep it going until you get going on high RPM like down the road. ( I limped home the other day)
Tonight, I tried a few things as I suspected the Idle Air Control Valve. I started her up and let her come up to temp. I was able to replicate the same issue that happens while out driving. However, I had the hood open and the door open in my garage on a quiet night and when it died, I could hear a sort of tick-tak, tick- tak, tick- tak coming from somewhere in the engine bay (3 sequences in 3 secs right after it died). Since the engine would run for 2 secs after cranking, I ran over the motor and after two tries I found the Idle Air Control Valve making that noise. You could put your hand on it and hear and feel "clicking". So I unplugged it, took the key out, plugged it back in, and it started up and stayed idling. I thought, ah-ha! However, once I tuned it off, and restarted, it began the start- then die sequence again. Previously I checked for vacuum leaks with starting fluid trick and checked the air intake clamps and hose for cracks (like new of course).
So all this to ask, does this confirm the Idle Air Control Valve is bad or dirty? Is it supposed to make that noise? I am temped to just start throwing parts at it (all those mentioned above would be about $800) since it sat for so long and their could be gunk or corrosion and I would eliminate them all. I know I can get the FSM from somewhere and start applying voltages and bench test, but just thought I would ask before doing that. I don't have the FSM and from what I read, this issue is hard to diagnose. I want to begin to work on the fun things to get her in show room shape. I appreciate the knowledge here.
So, now we know that even if the LC only has 23,200 miles it still can have this issue that others seem to have had after the same number of years and not related to usage or mileage.
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- Thread starter
- #38
Pic
If i remember correctly, the IAC is supposed to click after shut off, per FSM. Means its functioning correctly. I was having idle and start issues, i changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv and the fuel filter. I also cleaned the cold start injector, the throttle body and the IAC. I checked the fpr vsv and it was ok. I checked the tps and it was ok. No codes ever. Finally i replaced the coil and cleaned the connectors that come off the igniter and attatch to said coil. Problem solved. My coil was leaking slowly, i found, and was almost rusted through its case. I wouldnt expect that physical condition from your beauty though.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the tips dylans. The clicking did seem like it was on purpose for the IAC. I did replace the cap, rotor (part of the ect in my post). It starts fine and no trouble on idle until later. So explain the coil leaking- did it do this after it was warmed up. I'm not sure it is coil related. There is something going on after it warms up- specifically on "stage 2" of the warm up, where something triggers and the idles is starved for fuel- that is causing it to die. I do think cleaning would be a first step for the IAC, Cold Injector and throttle body. Others?
