Builds Outsane/Solvefunction/Cruisin2Camp Build (2 Viewers)

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This little guy worked a treat today. I designed this on a whim and was going to sell them. I decided to have it cut out with the last batch of power steering res brackets.
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Happy I did and had it when needed.

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Pulled off the ac, thermo stat housing and water pump tonight.
 
It's going back together this weekend.

Arp bolts are in
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I'll do a third pass this morning and check torque. The rear left needed two passes.

Timing cover took a bit to get off, pulling the studs at the bottom did the trick. I replaced with the old intake manifold studs. So if needed I can use a Torques socket to remove in the future.
 
Ok I got the slipper!
And no it doesn't link like I can pull the plastic and and slip it down..
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Installed new injectors from oside 12 hole instead of two!

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They went in easily

Fresh head

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Distributor was 180 out and a bypass hose was missing on the tb.

Everything else was good




On my way to koh to help pit for ultra4Jones
Running great! Feels smoother and a little more powerful.


The timing was always off and I had to crank the distributer all the way to reach 0


I ended up not pulling the oil pans, pulled the studs from the bottom. So far no leaks...
 
Decided a 900 mile test drive to Johnson Valley was a good idea.

Heater hose on the firewall was left loose by me. So coolant dripped into the wire harness and was blowing the efi fuse. In Victorville.

After that no issues.
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I helped crew for Kevin ultra4jones had a great time. Just kept wrenching for another week.
 
I made some no lose brake bleeder caps
I have been losing these all my life.

Similar to the valve cap design.

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Then installed the @Delta VS front hydro bumps. For a little 1/8" maybe lift and cush whoop action.

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Now I have King Kong bump stops (king front kong rear).
 
Looks like the hydro ram or fitting has a small leak ?

Did you clock the tie rod when you set up the hydro?
 
Looks like the hydro ram or fitting has a small leak ?

Did you clock the tie rod when you set up the hydro?
One of the fittings was a little loose, I do clock them tie rods to reduce movement. I think the psc tie rod mount will be nicer
 
I put this gasket in
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It goes between the manifold and down pipe. P0402 code eliminated.

It fell out when installing the down pipe and I didn't notice it It was back together. It was a struggle then so I just left it. I pulled the studs this time to get the down pipe off.

Thank you
 
Link to injectors? U did a bunch of other work but think it was worth it?
 
Link to injectors? U did a bunch of other work but think it was worth it?
I messaged the seller osidetiger since I don't see the 1fzfe injectors listed any more.

As far as an improvement? The motor feels great not sure how much of that is due to the injectors. It does mean that I didn't have to wait to send mine off to get cleaned. There is a possibility that the 12hole design will make a better combustion and the kit was plug and play.
 
I messaged the seller osidetiger since I don't see the 1fzfe injectors listed any more.

As far as an improvement? The motor feels great not sure how much of that is due to the injectors. It does mean that I didn't have to wait to send mine off to get cleaned. There is a possibility that the 12hole design will make a better combustion and the kit was plug and play.
Theoretically it should atomize fuel. Better than oem. Did that on my Jeep. Not a huge improvement power wise. But drivability was better and idle etc.
 
Time for some front swaybar action

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Trying out this lazy location for the swaybar mount.

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I did build this side with a thick peice of metal and a brace below.

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The passenger side link is too long.

But at least it's in and I can make another link this week. Big thanks to Simon for the parts and help.

I also need to replace a couple of the bolts that hold down arms. Maybe print some end caps.

Quick trip to pick up some Thai food and it's great on the street. This is a tk1 racing bar the rock crawler .75in chromo triple heat treated. I hope it flexes more then the rear whiteline did.

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How's that front bump stop look fully compressed with the spring on? Looks like they will bind on each other.
 
Looking at it now on my big screen instead of my phone it looks like there a few interference issues
It looks like the link bolts are hitting the shock reservoirs ?
And at full driver and full droop it looks like the sway bar arm will crash into the pitman arm ?
Have you fully cycled the suspension.
I really like the idea :cool:

I call this the urban crawl wall, using it to test the rear rock jock sway bar for clearance
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Looking at it now on my big screen instead of my phone it looks like there a few interference issues
It looks like the link bolts are hitting the shock reservoirs ?
And at full driver and full droop it looks like the sway bar arm will crash into the pitman arm ?
Have you fully cycled the suspension.
I really like the idea :cool:

I call this the urban crawl wall, using it to test the rear rock jock sway bar for clearance
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Bolts nudge the reservoirs, but I pulled them in..

Full droop driver turned passenger may be an issue..

Still tweaking the system, rubbing on the links at full turn. It's a process
 
Added some hardware to the end to move the link inboard. They were rubbing at full steering lock.

Also welded in a lower rear mount.

Installed a end cap that I made.

Then shortened the links to about 10in. Drivers side was lifted with a hilift then turned full driver and then shortened the arm so it would barely clear.
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This is with the wheel floating, before shortening the link. Oh and cut some length off the bolt in the upper heim.
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Need some better hardware too. Maybe relocate the reservoirs. Needs a cotter pin in the pitman arm
 

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