Interesting tent in post #317 got a link ?
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ThanksThat is the gazelle t3,
Here is a link to the t4
I have had both, the t3 is big enough for me and my boys. Sets up very fast, weighs less then a rtt.
Good to have good friends !!
Is the head back from the shop ?
Can't tell in the pictures, you happy with the block surface & cylinder walls ?
Such a bummer. If part of that chain slipper cracked the rest is probably brittle as corn flakes. Have you removed the front timing cover already to replace it? If not, from my experience doing a couple of head gaskets and a short block swap, at this point you might as well pull the engine. You're halfway there, and it makes it so much easier to inspect the bottom end and tackle all the other "while you are in there" items.Let's just be current...
Pulled the head, chain tensioner slipper broke
Looks like the head is already back on ! Post#328Such a bummer. If part of that chain slipper cracked the rest is probably brittle as corn flakes. Have you removed the front timing cover already to replace it? If not, from my experience doing a couple of head gaskets and a short block swap, at this point you might as well pull the engine. You're halfway there, and it makes it so much easier to inspect the bottom end and tackle all the other "while you are in there" items.
If you need a hoist, pm me. I drive up the peninsula to SSF everyday.
No I do not. I asked because I’m about to pull the engine out of this 96 I bought last summer to at least rebuild the head and reseal the entire engine. It runs great but expelled blue smoke upon rev after it idled for a couple minutes. Smoke would clear and no smoke if I held it at high rev’s so I assume it’s just valve guides. 238k….. BUT, since I’ll have the motor out I was thinking I’d go ahead with rings and bearings. Thing is that there is a lot to be said for a factory built bottom end that still doing well at 238k as far as reliability. I’ll make this decision when I see the condition of the cylinder walls and bearings and also plasti- gauge bearing oil clearance. My cheap ass should just do the pistons, rings and bearings though. Then it’s done no matter how long I keep it.No idea I dropped it in used... know of a short block locally?
Don't over think it !!No I do not. I asked because I’m about to pull the engine out of this 96 I bought last summer to at least rebuild the head and reseal the entire engine. It runs great but expelled blue smoke upon rev after it idled for a couple minutes. Smoke would clear and no smoke if I held it at high rev’s so I assume it’s just valve guides. 238k….. BUT, since I’ll have the motor out I was thinking I’d go ahead with rings and bearings. Thing is that there is a lot to be said for a factory built bottom end that still doing well at 238k as far as reliability. I’ll make this decision when I see the condition of the cylinder walls and bearings and also plasti- gauge bearing oil clearance. My cheap ass should just do the pistons, rings and bearings though. Then it’s done no matter how long I keep it.
It’s as if you know me…..Don't over think it !!
OEM short block is the way to go given the cost of machine work here in the Bay Area. But yeah, plan on several months of downtime. Mine's a daily also and I had to borrow a Prius from a buddy. It sucked.
If you start shopping for a block, you might want to talk to local dealers. Stevens Creek Toyota is local to me and they are a TLCA member business. I get up to 20-25% off MSRP. When I bought my short block from @OGBeno, they told me that I should have talked to them because they were actively trying to match other online prices. I don't think they could have matched the price I paid Onur, but having it ordered through the local dealer might have saved on some shipping costs. Olathe Toyota has a really good advertised price. You might want to show Putnam, 101, or Stevens Creek to see if they could save you on shipping.
58,000 miles ago.This was many, many moons ago.