Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (15 Viewers)

[JohnnyC]

I had been running round oem flat mirrors for 20 years... I changed over to convex a few years ago

I cannot believe I had not done it sooner... It makes looking at the mirror enjoyable ... Not a questing game lol

Convex is so 1980 I'm glad I finally made it there

 

[ginmtb]

Dang just received the non-convex mirrors figures...

 

[GA Architect]

Dang just received the non-convex mirrors figures...

Those can be your backup set....

 

[GA Architect]

I haven't done much to my 40 in the past few weeks, except just driving it around, to work, to Home Depot, to Publix, over the hills & thru the woods, and of course to the gas station for some of that good ol' Pure Ethanol Free Gas!....

I forgot to mention this up grade. My OEM battery hold-down bar didn't fit exactly right, so I ordered a new non-OEM one from Speed Daddy. I also became disenchanted with the chrome spacer and yellow-zinc nut look on the hold-down bar, so I order some stainless steel M8x1.25 coupling nuts to replace them. Due to my battery not being as tall as the original one, the threads on the hold-down rods end just before I get to the bar. Thus I took the coupling nut and drilled out one end about half way thru, installed it and worked perfectly. Here have a look.

Old:

New:

@ginmtb - up grade from my post #902 in your thread.

 

[FoxBeard]

Man, that is one fine vehicle. If i can get mine looking like yours, life will be good.

 

[GA Architect]

Spent all yesterday in my FJ40.....

The wife & I went for an early morning 3 (+) mile run, and perused through the local market.

After that, went to the bank, a big box store, back home for a wash & wax, and then to the local "Po-Boy's" car show.

 

[GA Architect]

Reminds me of what he would look like if the Lone Ranger lost his mask!

 

[ginmtb]

Amazing how iconic the bezel and roof are... Looks so different without them. I guess with an OEM style soft top they definitely still look distinctive but take away the bezel and man I don't even recognize it... Almost looks like a heep. Hush your mouth child!

 

[Jdc1]

Reminds me of what he would look like if the Lone Ranger lost his mask!

View attachment 1329230

What are the details on the headlights? They look great.

 

[GA Architect]

What are the details on the headlights? They look great.

with the polycarb lens.

 

[GA Architect]

Old Man Winter is approaching, so I started the process of the re-installing the Winter Clothing. First, removed the nice Bikini that it wore over the Summer, then I cleaned up all the adjoining surfaces, and installed some new OEM weatherstripping & @Racer65 63167-90302 & 93168-90302 spacers.

Then the side panels and rear cross member.

Next up, lay in all the OEM roof weatherstripping and then the roof. Followed up by the refurbished doors.

 

[x463]

I did this same job late last week - completely disassembled hard top for paint in the spring. Ran with a bikini top all summer. It is a major pain. I also insulated the roof and did the headliner.

Couple tips -

• Lightly tack the big roof seal to the top around all the holes so the rubber isn't an issue lining up the holes for the bolts. (I did this)
• Glue the rubber flat "packing" piece w/ the holes to the hardtop sides (not the tub). (I didn't do this but it would have helped.)
• Using blue painters tape hold the side rail "lip" molding down. There's enough room to pull the tape out later. I had the seal pop out at the rear tub corners a couple times after setting the sides on while trying to get everything else lined up. It's a real pain trying to remedy once more pieces are bolted up.
• Bolt the sides on LOOSELY. You'll need the flexibility.
• The rear crossbar is a real pain - do that first while you have plenty of slack in other areas. There are two bolts that attach the bar to the sides that should be started before the top is set on. The heads will protrude through larger holes in the rain gutter metal. The small pieces of weatherstripping for this area will need holes punched for these bolts. (The slots already cut are for the next outward bolt hole). Work on the corner brackets and these bolts simultaneously until everything is loosely bolted up.
• Tape the outer corners of the windshield top seal down. Hard to line up otherwise.
  
• Set the hardtop on - WITH help. Before setting it in place I used thick Polyethylene tape on the front metal edge of the hardtop roof to protect the paint on the windshield frame. (Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823JDRS/). You will have to shift things around a bit and I was paranoid about scratching something. (I used this stuff in a lot of areas like the hinges, bib, side panels, running boards, etc to protect two painted surfaces and eliminate squeeks. It's good stuff available in different width/thickness).
• The bolts that go DOWN from the hardtop to the rear x-member should be next. These are the only "blind" bolts that go down and are the hardest to get started.
• Loosely bolt up the door crossbars next. Be careful here as the scratch potential is high - especially at the windshield.
• Start the two bolts at front of windshield.
• Get the rest of the top bolts started.
• You can remove the blue tape holding the tub lip molding down. Pulled out from both sides easily.
• I then alternated tightening everything up from side to side and upper/lower gradually working around. I suspect after the rubber settles in a week or two I'll have to repeat.

I decided to have a pro install the side and corner glass and then I'll be done. I sure hope removing and installing the top in one piece is easier next year. If not...I'm adding A/C!

- One more tip. I used new stainless hardware. The correct Toyota hardware would have been better as those bolts have a tapered tip. On a couple holes I couldn't get the stainless bolt started and had to use one of the original bolts - which were simple in comparison to get started. After everything was tightened down I was then able to swap out for the stainless bolt so it matches. Should have ordered the proper bolts with the tapered tip.

 

[GA Architect]

I did this same job late last week - completely disassembled hard top for paint in the spring. Ran with a bikini top all summer. It is a major pain. I also insulated the roof and did the headliner.

Couple tips -

• Lightly tack the big roof seal to the top around all the holes so the rubber isn't an issue lining up the holes for the bolts. (I did this)
• Glue the rubber flat "packing" piece w/ the holes to the hardtop sides (not the tub). (I didn't do this but it would have helped.)
• Using blue painters tape hold the side rail "lip" molding down. There's enough room to pull the tape out later. I had the seal pop out at the rear tub corners a couple times after setting the sides on while trying to get everything else lined up. It's a real pain trying to remedy once more pieces are bolted up.
• Bolt the sides on LOOSELY. You'll need the flexibility.
• The rear crossbar is a real pain - do that first while you have plenty of slack in other areas. There are two bolts that attach the bar to the sides that should be started before the top is set on. The heads will protrude through larger holes in the rain gutter metal. The small pieces of weatherstripping for this area will need holes punched for these bolts. (The slots already cut are for the next outward bolt hole). Work on the corner brackets and these bolts simultaneously until everything is loosely bolted up.
• Tape the outer corners of the windshield top seal down. Hard to line up otherwise.
  
• Set the hardtop on - WITH help. Before setting it in place I used thick Polyethylene tape on the front metal edge of the hardtop roof to protect the paint on the windshield frame. (Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00823JDRS/). You will have to shift things around a bit and I was paranoid about scratching something. (I used this stuff in a lot of areas like the hinges, bib, side panels, running boards, etc to protect two painted surfaces and eliminate squeeks. It's good stuff available in different width/thickness).
• The bolts that go DOWN from the hardtop to the rear x-member should be next. These are the only "blind" bolts that go down and are the hardest to get started.
• Loosely bolt up the door crossbars next. Be careful here as the scratch potential is high - especially at the windshield.
• Start the two bolts at front of windshield.
• Get the rest of the top bolts started.
• You can remove the blue tape holding the tub lip molding down. Pulled out from both sides easily.
• I then alternated tightening everything up from side to side and upper/lower gradually working around. I suspect after the rubber settles in a week or two I'll have to repeat.

I decided to have a pro install the side and corner glass and then I'll be done. I sure hope removing and installing the top in one piece is easier next year. If not...I'm adding A/C!

Thanks for the tips! I'll heed your advice......As for the rear door cross member, I used a ratchet strap between the upper door hinges and pulled each side together. That piece is "tight as a tick" for sure!

The new side panel's weatherstripping kept the panel up off the rubber packing so I could line up the holes and start the new bolts. Once all together, I started alternating torquing on the bolts. As I alternated the bolts, I checked the weatherstripping, and the side panels slid onto the tub nicely, tucking the weatherstripping up under the side panel. These bolts are a little loose, and a final torque will take place once the entire roof assembly is back in place.

The large roof drip molding packing piece appears to be a tricky item to install, as I pondered this late last night....What did you tack this piece to the roof with? I was just going to lay it in place, starting with the center rear door cross member bolts, and work my way around. Also, did you install the two 64836-90332 weatherstrip pieces? If so, exactly what is the orientation and location of them being installed?

Thanks again....

 

[x463]

I used 3M weatherstrip contact adhesive to attached the big rubber seal to the hardtop metal drip rail. I didn't go for complete coverage - just enough to keep the holes lined up.

Yes - I installed 64836-90332. The thinner portion with the pre-cut "slots" are oriented outward. Flat side up - stepped down. You need to punch holes in the thicker part for the bolt that attaches the rear door cross-member to the sides.

 

[gcrump01]

I used 3M weatherstrip contact adhesive to attached the big rubber seal to the hardtop metal drip rail. I didn't go for complete coverage - just enough to keep the holes lined up.

Yes - I installed 64836-90332. The thinner portion with the pre-cut "slots" are oriented outward. Flat side up - stepped down. You need to punch holes in the thicker part for the bolt that attaches the rear door cross-member to the sides.

Can you post a picture of that piece installed. The roof is next on my list also.

 

[gcrump01]

^^^ Sorry, hit "Post" before I meant to. main reason for my question is that toyodiy shows that part number near the front of the roof??? It is 64838 in this pic -I think???

 

[GA Architect]

Those OEM weatherstrip pieces, 64836-90332, I'm not 100% sure of their orientation. I've seen it located several different ways.....More research is needed.

 

[x463]

This seal goes on the horizontal surface between the ambulance door x-member and side panel. A hole needs punched for a "downward" bolt that goes thru the x-member from the top into a captive nut in the side panel. (Orientation pictured is for the left/passenger side.)

The slot is for an "upward" bolt thru the side panel into a captive nut in the hardtop lid.

 

[x463]

This seal for the vertical surfaces between the x-member and side panel. (Orientation pictured is for the left/passenger side.)

The little tab is outside. It was originally riveted to both ends of the x-member. I glued this time. WARNING - There is a LEFT and a RIGHT for this piece. I have two extras....same side b/c Beno sent me two of the same. Ended up ordering another pair from SOR b/c I needed them quickly and I wasn't 100% sure which was which.

 

[x463]

BTW - my truck was extremely original with one owner for all but the first couple years of it's life until I bought it. The hardtop was never taken apart - I don't think it even was ever off the truck. I documented the seals when I took it apart and am confident this is correct.