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New to me BJ74 with some questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scalpel1
- Start date
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I've had a setback on my BJ74 inspection, but I'm putting RHD suspension seats into a LHD BJ74.
Trying to figure out if I should swap drivers seat over, with the levers inboard. My steering box
has crapped out.
Trying to figure out if I should swap drivers seat over, with the levers inboard. My steering box
has crapped out.
- Thread starter
- #84
No thats bad luck. We must be special to keep these aging Cruisers alive. In South Africa we still get the 70 series new from the dealers as well. I am not sure if the suspension seats are left and right? If I look at the base itself it looks the same to me. Except the direction of the lock and unlock.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
if they are a pair they will be left and right. Small changes to the pressings in the base will make my drivers side rock when I put it on the passenger side.
- Thread starter
- #89
Frustration. Brakes now sorted as well. The frustarion is that the batteries drains withon about 36 hours. Just before I bought the 74 the PO had some work done on the alternator and startor motor. After about a week of ownership I replaced the batteries. Both. 4 weeks later they were replaced again. Now I have this issue. I dont want to use the Cruiser as I am worried its going to leave me stranded. When I get out of the Cruiser and touch the steel door and ground I get a electrical shock. So Iam earthing the Cruiser. Any ideas where to start looking guys? Oh yes. 24 volt.
- Thread starter
- #90
I'm This is what I see on the battery terminals. Please advise on what should be there or not. The first pictures is of the battery closest to the cab.
Second battery. Front one.
The red cable is attached to the thing in above picture. With this yelow cable also attached to negative on front battery.
Second battery. Front one.
The red cable is attached to the thing in above picture. With this yelow cable also attached to negative on front battery.
I know that Toyota will have plugs for different options/applications on the same model so there
might be a plug for something that was never on your vehicle.
As for the dead batteries, you are in electrical hell now. My impression is a dead short that is draining
the batteries. Since you are grounding the truck upon leaving, go over all the factory ground wires and
check for continuity and corrosion. Undo bolts and clean up connectors and grounding points. Check the
voltage regulator on the alternator, if it is not functioning then this could damage batteries too. Go over the
alternator wiring, remove all the crap electrical tape and look for damaged wire sheathing and cracks in the
factory wires. An old trick I remember being told, is look at the wires in the dark and look for arcing against
anything. Sounds like an old ongoing issue that the PO might have decided he'd had enough of.
I had an old Mustang with a forever problem with the voltage regulator. Finally some old guy in a shop
in the middle of nowhere finally found the issue.
At that point I had to pay him hourly to find it, cause it failed in the middle of nowhere.
I'd hate for you to have to do that. I hope its something that can be found by testing, but I have a
local auto electric guy here. It's not my strength figuring electrical.
might be a plug for something that was never on your vehicle.
As for the dead batteries, you are in electrical hell now. My impression is a dead short that is draining
the batteries. Since you are grounding the truck upon leaving, go over all the factory ground wires and
check for continuity and corrosion. Undo bolts and clean up connectors and grounding points. Check the
voltage regulator on the alternator, if it is not functioning then this could damage batteries too. Go over the
alternator wiring, remove all the crap electrical tape and look for damaged wire sheathing and cracks in the
factory wires. An old trick I remember being told, is look at the wires in the dark and look for arcing against
anything. Sounds like an old ongoing issue that the PO might have decided he'd had enough of.
I had an old Mustang with a forever problem with the voltage regulator. Finally some old guy in a shop
in the middle of nowhere finally found the issue.
At that point I had to pay him hourly to find it, cause it failed in the middle of nowhere.
I'd hate for you to have to do that. I hope its something that can be found by testing, but I have a
local auto electric guy here. It's not my strength figuring electrical.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks Cruiserpilot. This is not my strength either. I will go over all the attachments and have a look. I will also checj the alternator. I also want to eliminate all unnecessary attachments to the batteries. Hence all the pictures. Thank you for your input.
I have to admit, I have no idea what a turbo timer is. What does it do?
So I looked it up.
A turbo timer is a device designed to keep an automotive engine running for a pre-specified period in order to automatically execute the cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure.
Anything aftermarket could be effecting your electrical system. Could this be maintaining
a draw even after the vehicle is shut off? Perhaps clean up and remove any other unnecessary items as well?
So I looked it up.
A turbo timer is a device designed to keep an automotive engine running for a pre-specified period in order to automatically execute the cool-down period required to prevent premature turbo wear and failure.
Anything aftermarket could be effecting your electrical system. Could this be maintaining
a draw even after the vehicle is shut off? Perhaps clean up and remove any other unnecessary items as well?
Last edited:
jblueridge
SILVER Star
Mine also came to me with a turbo timer. It did t work so I removed it and iits wiring. Is there a shop near you that does starters, alternators and generators? They could test alternator. Maybe install a battery disconnect switch to protect the batteries you have.
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Replacement-Battery-Switches/b?ie=UTF8&node=15719961
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Replacement-Battery-Switches/b?ie=UTF8&node=15719961
- Thread starter
- #99
Figured out the alternator does not charge. Batteries were charged full with charger. Started the 74. The batteries drain. No charge. Swittch off. Turn on. Third time I do this there is hardly enough power left to start the 74. The voltage dial on the instrument panel indicates about 16 volt. What can be wrong with the alternator? Brushes? Windings? I have taken alternator out.
Is there a local auto electrical shop? Test for regulator voltage output. That's where I'm thinking. Windings will be fine. Could be brushes, but less likely.
