I like your signature!! 
Won't turn over.. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter krudo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Ok to be sure, this is the fuel filter I'll be changing then? It's the only one I see. Connects from fuel pump to carb.. Looks so small.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #23
Missed this message. There is an air cleaner on top of the carburetor. And it has a mechanical fuel pump on lower passengers side in the engine bay
Last edited:
There may be another fuel filter inline before the fuel pump, look along the passenger side framerail. Follow the rubber line down the frame until it attaches to the hardline on the frame. Also remove the fitting on the carb fuel inlet that the rubber line is attached to and check for a debris screen inside it. The fuel pump is not hard to change-it is held in place with two bolts.
HTH,
Will
HTH,
Will
- Thread starter
- #25
Yeah the line goes into the frame rail, then comes back out by the passenger seat and goes up into the tank. Doesn't look like there is another filter.
Last edited:
Do I understand correctly that a rubber fuel line runs inside the frame rail all the way back to the fuel tank? Originally there would be metal fuel lines (hard line) attached to the inside of the frame from the rear of the engine compartment to under the passenger seat. Then a rubber line up through the floor to the fuel tank. On my 69FST junkyard recovery truck the metal lines were rusted/trashed so I ran the rubber line inside an old garden hose to protect it from chaffing and then threaded it through the frame to the front. I recommend adding another fuel filter inline before the fuel pump to keep trash out of the fuel pump.
HTH,
Will
- Thread starter
- #27
Here is what I see attached to the fuel pump.
1. metal line (pictured a few posts above) going to filter to carb
2. rubber tube going into frame rail then out up into tank
Thinking about it that is probably a good idea especially until I can get the tanks checked!
1. metal line (pictured a few posts above) going to filter to carb
2. rubber tube going into frame rail then out up into tank
Thinking about it that is probably a good idea especially until I can get the tanks checked!
I'd alway want the fuel filter between the tank and whatever is next (fuel pump, Pollak switching valve, etc.)... In fact, if you install a new pump, the warranty will likely require a filter before it.
Even if you don't have hard lines before the fuel pump, the sift lines could be full of water and crap... It's easy to blow them out.
I can't tell how much crap is inside your filter... Are there bits and flakes? Or what?
Even if you don't have hard lines before the fuel pump, the sift lines could be full of water and crap... It's easy to blow them out.
I can't tell how much crap is inside your filter... Are there bits and flakes? Or what?
- Thread starter
- #29
Ok got my keys back and was able to get inside to investigate. Turns out the line coming up from the pump goes into a brass valve - not the main tank. This valve also has a rubber line coming in from the rear auxiliary tank. There is a third thin plastic tube running from the main tank into this valve. So that is where all the fuel lines come/go. I don't think the valve actually switches to the rear aux tank though as I was told it was not hooked up.
I'll let you know what's in that filter once I get it removed (soon).
I'll let you know what's in that filter once I get it removed (soon).
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #30
Here are the innards. You can see the filter has a massive rupture and loads of sediment build up. Can't imagine it was doing much good..
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #31
Last edited:
Wow. that filter looks bad! Think you should drain and flush the tank with that level of debris...
Remember to check the debris screen in the carb inlet before you fire it up also...
(Unscrew the fitting with the hose barb on the carb and check inside the carb for the screen)
(Unscrew the fitting with the hose barb on the carb and check inside the carb for the screen)
- Thread starter
- #34
Haha yeah it was bad. I mean. I doubt the filter has been replaced since the engine was put in...
Flush is a good idea. Definitely not going to start it yet! I'll check the carb screen tomorrow.
Flush is a good idea. Definitely not going to start it yet! I'll check the carb screen tomorrow.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #35
Oh man..
Last edited:
Yep. Houston we have a problem...
Do you know when the fuel lines were changed last? Looks like they may be deteriorating from ethanol in the gas. While you're at it draining/cleaning out the fuel tank (there should be a drain bolt in the bottom of the tank) I would replace the rubber fuel lines with new, since you had to cut the lines to get the old filter out.... I believe you can get ethanol resistant/tolerant fuel line now.
HTH,
Will
HTH,
Will
That's not normal. New fuel filters may help for a while, but it looks like your tank is throwing some serious crap into the mixture.
It's good to have clear filters that you can watch. I'd give some thought to cleaning/sealing your gas tank.
It's good to have clear filters that you can watch. I'd give some thought to cleaning/sealing your gas tank.
- Thread starter
- #39
Yeah I've decided to completely replace the fuel lines, get rid of main tank, drop and clean/reseal aux tank to use as main. Then I will either replace or try to clean the pump. What do you guys think about the carb at this point? And how do I tell if there is dirt past the carb?
Filters do a good job. If you replace the cause of the crud and it runs well, I'd declare success.
