TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #321
Builds HJ61 Cruiser build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter TLC Norway
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
mcguirejohnson
SILVER Star
If you did that this rig would go from a 9/10 to a 10/10 in my eyes... Really enjoyed the wheeling videos. I cannot wait to try my 12ht out in the woods.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #323
Yeah, im going for a 10/10
im looking for a donor rig, as i stripped down the previous one into boxes and took the rust pile to the wrecker. From what i know, i need the fenders along with everything else in the front. Hard to find a decent set around here, going to look into finnish wreckers.
And this one has a frame from 84, but everything exept rear pass doors and rear gates are 88.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #324
Wrecker is about an hour away, but i figured it was time. Took three runs to get some extra outdoor space for building a new garage.
The taunus is my grandfathers' but i know for a fact that i cant do all that rust and bodywork. would be cool to keep.
The taunus is my grandfathers' but i know for a fact that i cant do all that rust and bodywork. would be cool to keep.
mcguirejohnson
SILVER Star
Yeah, im going for a 10/10
From what i know, i need the fenders along with everything else in the front. Hard to find a decent set around here, going to look into finnish wreckers.
And this one has a frame from 84, but everything exept rear pass doors and rear gates are 88.
Assuming that the HJ61 has the same front fenders as a 62 you could modify the mounting tabs for the 60 front for it to work. It's going to look good that's for sure!
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #326
What? Isn't the light doors different? And the lower valance? And the 'radiator wall' is different... I gotta research this.
The previous 81 round light hj60 I had was different in every way.
mcguirejohnson
SILVER Star
The "radiator wall" and valence are different, I am almost positive that the front fenders (hj61 or fj62) can be tweaked to accept the round eye components. The mounting tabs on the fenders will be different obviously but they shouldn't be too hard to tweak
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #328
Here are some more pics from Lapland Trophy 2015
Lapland Trophy 2015 - Offipalsta.COM
Mostly on the page 2, and behind the links.
Hey, is that you, Teppo?
Wow... took me two evenings to go through all these posts. Love the HJ, im envious!
No, i'm not.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #331
Thanks for following, I love it more every day.
Now I'm heading out to wire up some gauges, maybe tap for egt.
Has anyone driven 285/75r16 on cruiser 6'rim? I got a bargain on a set for the winter...
Or else I'll have to get the 255s and stud them myself. (X4 the price)
I have 285 75/16s but run an 8 inch rim. you could probably get a set of "winter" rims for the extra cash cheaper than buying new and studding yourself. they look so good too
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #333
I have two sets of 16x6 cruiser wheels, and i have the studs already from last winter. And with the hard to come by selection in wheels around my parts, im looking for tires for one of the sets. Maybe i can go with a 235/85r16 for winter duty. Best option would be Hakkapelita LT, but expensive at $1K!
the 35's im running now has about 20% life left in them, and looking to go 255 for next season.
As for gauges, ill continue tomorrow. Got snowy and below freezing tonight.
Almost ready to tap the manifold, ripped out the dash to mount egt and boost in the vent holes.
Also working on a dedicated fuse panel for the switched 12v power from converter. So far so good!
the 35's im running now has about 20% life left in them, and looking to go 255 for next season.
As for gauges, ill continue tomorrow. Got snowy and below freezing tonight.
Almost ready to tap the manifold, ripped out the dash to mount egt and boost in the vent holes.
Also working on a dedicated fuse panel for the switched 12v power from converter. So far so good!
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #334
Fuse panel is up and running in the passenger kick panel, dedicated for 12v switched power.
Right now the stereo, gauges, arb 24v comp 12v switch and electric bmw seats is hooked up to four of the 6 fused spots.
Good to finally get things sorted, used crimp connections and soldered and heat shrunk most of the harness.
Mid process of the gauge-harness:
Gotta find out how to rig the heat for the bmw seats, and they will get a dedicated spot in the fuse panel.
But I started tinkering... If i put both seats on one switch, and powering the seats in series, grounding both, that would make 12x2 is 24v. Then i would not have to run them through the 24-12v converter, taking the load off that (or am I too ambitious?)
@torfab have you wired up bmw heated seats before? I will measure the draw on each seat to see that it's equal.
I wish it was as easy as two wires. i guess not, knowing bmw.
Intake, shields and misc is bolted off the turbo and manifold. Oil, water and in/out exhaust needs to unbolt next.
Then i will tap 1/8th npt for egt probe next to that closest heat shield bolt.
A bit of blowby in the turbo, but not excessively much, just a film in the pressure side. Feels solid.
Right now the stereo, gauges, arb 24v comp 12v switch and electric bmw seats is hooked up to four of the 6 fused spots.
Good to finally get things sorted, used crimp connections and soldered and heat shrunk most of the harness.
Mid process of the gauge-harness:
Gotta find out how to rig the heat for the bmw seats, and they will get a dedicated spot in the fuse panel.
But I started tinkering... If i put both seats on one switch, and powering the seats in series, grounding both, that would make 12x2 is 24v. Then i would not have to run them through the 24-12v converter, taking the load off that
(or am I too ambitious?) @torfab have you wired up bmw heated seats before? I will measure the draw on each seat to see that it's equal.
I wish it was as easy as two wires. i guess not, knowing bmw.
Intake, shields and misc is bolted off the turbo and manifold. Oil, water and in/out exhaust needs to unbolt next.
Then i will tap 1/8th npt for egt probe next to that closest heat shield bolt.
A bit of blowby in the turbo, but not excessively much, just a film in the pressure side. Feels solid.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #335
Also got around to swap both of the oils seals on the rear FF and adjusted the wheel bearings.
A nice tool for the lock-screws:
And @orangefj45 's front oil seal tool works for the rear too, just not as tight as in the front.
A nice tool for the lock-screws:
And @orangefj45 's front oil seal tool works for the rear too, just not as tight as in the front.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2012
- Threads
- 11
- Messages
- 2,695
- Location
- Netherlands Hengevelde
- Website
- www.tapatalk.com
Nice, I think the seats will be on full power when in series, so you need a 24v adjust thing like the fan switch regulator.
Not grounding both but one + to battery, the - to the other seat + and that - to battery
#1 battery + - to other seat + - to battery #2
so it seems to have one plus wire, one minus and one regulating but dont know what you got
switch: low - off - high so maybe one wire is low and the other wire is for high?
heated and electric seats retrofit in non heated car - E39 1996-2004
Not grounding both but one + to battery, the - to the other seat + and that - to battery
#1 battery + - to other seat + - to battery #2
so it seems to have one plus wire, one minus and one regulating but dont know what you got
switch: low - off - high so maybe one wire is low and the other wire is for high?
heated and electric seats retrofit in non heated car - E39 1996-2004
Last edited:
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #338
Yeah, knowing EGT right before inlet is the most interesting spot for me to measure.
Do you have it post? What numbers do you read?
All my cruisers have been LHD, so is this. But when i drove a friends rhd hilux, i was supprised at how easy the transition was.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
- Thread starter
- #339
Thanks, gotta look into that a bit more, but yes i hope i can do them together. Or seat/back together in series, making each seat a 24v.
There is probably different heating circuits in the seat/back.
I did read something about a pulse, temp sensing wire (regulating as in a/c control) and different settings, pwm and all kinds of shaboo.
These seats have more wire and technology then both our cruisers together!
Who on here is electrically educated?
Well, I will attempt to assist on the electrical. Anything need clarifying please ask!
What year are these seats?
I found some info here BMW Heated seats
With 24V setup, you would need 2 heaters in series, only one grounded...
24VDC+----(12V heater)-----(12Vheater)-----0VD(GND)
This would work well if both seat and back were separate heaters as they could be wired like this. NOTE that BOTH heaters would always turn on and off together. You can not run just one of the 12Vheaters off your 24V supply, always 2.
Temp sensor is likely just a restive bi-metalic probe. Its resistance will vary based on temperature and the resistance curve will likely fit into a standard curve (ie type K or J thermocouple). You probably don't need to worry about this.
PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. I think we are all familiar with the typical AC sine wave and what it looks like.... PWM is a SQUARE wave, where the voltage near instantaneously rises to say 5V, stays on for a certain period of time, and then drops to 0V for a certain period of time. The ON time vs the OFF time is what is referred to the pulse width. Generally much faster frequency too, in KiloHz ranges.
So the heaters on your seats are likely just after a transistor or triac that acts as an electrical switch and this switch is enabled with the PWM signal is ON. This wire is likely smaller as little current travels through it, it simply enables current flow through the heater circuit. When connected to the PWM signal, the heat produced is directly proportional to the width of the ON vs OFF time of the pulse.
I am guessing that if the PWM wire in the seats was jumpered on (100% PWM duty cycle) the heat would be on full and you could manually flick the switch when your heiny is too hot/cold.
Other than that you *may* need a small micro-controller to get proper control of the seats. Maybe this is part of the dash switch assembly in the BMW and can be purchased from a wrecker? Or you will need a small arduino (or similar micro controller) to generate the PWM signal.
Sounds like a fun project!
EDIT : Lots more info here DIY: Non-Heated to Heated Seat Retrofit!! Lots of Pics!!! - E46Fanatics
What year are these seats?
I found some info here BMW Heated seats
With 24V setup, you would need 2 heaters in series, only one grounded...
24VDC+----(12V heater)-----(12Vheater)-----0VD(GND)
This would work well if both seat and back were separate heaters as they could be wired like this. NOTE that BOTH heaters would always turn on and off together. You can not run just one of the 12Vheaters off your 24V supply, always 2.
Temp sensor is likely just a restive bi-metalic probe. Its resistance will vary based on temperature and the resistance curve will likely fit into a standard curve (ie type K or J thermocouple). You probably don't need to worry about this.
PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. I think we are all familiar with the typical AC sine wave and what it looks like.... PWM is a SQUARE wave, where the voltage near instantaneously rises to say 5V, stays on for a certain period of time, and then drops to 0V for a certain period of time. The ON time vs the OFF time is what is referred to the pulse width. Generally much faster frequency too, in KiloHz ranges.
So the heaters on your seats are likely just after a transistor or triac that acts as an electrical switch and this switch is enabled with the PWM signal is ON. This wire is likely smaller as little current travels through it, it simply enables current flow through the heater circuit. When connected to the PWM signal, the heat produced is directly proportional to the width of the ON vs OFF time of the pulse.
I am guessing that if the PWM wire in the seats was jumpered on (100% PWM duty cycle) the heat would be on full and you could manually flick the switch when your heiny is too hot/cold.
Other than that you *may* need a small micro-controller to get proper control of the seats. Maybe this is part of the dash switch assembly in the BMW and can be purchased from a wrecker? Or you will need a small arduino (or similar micro controller) to generate the PWM signal.
Sounds like a fun project!
EDIT : Lots more info here DIY: Non-Heated to Heated Seat Retrofit!! Lots of Pics!!! - E46Fanatics
Last edited:
