60 that followed me home (1 Viewer)

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Not sure if I got the right angles that your looking for, but here's my attempt...

This is my smog pump on my 84 fj60, not desmogged.

Let me know if you want other angles etc, more than willing to help a fellow ONSC-er out!

Glad u snagged that truck, I was watching that one, seemed like a great deal! Can we make it a Black and Tan?

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thanks for the pics. As far as the adjusting goes, is it just the long bolt and the adjuster screw-type thing? No other nuts for locking purposes? All I have is the long bolt and the piece that attaches to the stud on the back of the pump that the bolt threads into. I'll post a pic to help explain if needed.

I did find out that the pushrods and adjusting screw/nut changed thoughout the years, so I had Beno track me down some new parts. They are on the way. While waiting on that (and seeing if it will run?) there are plenty of problem areas to work on. Mainly the battery tray and underneath...It seems at some point there was a battery explosion and the acid was allowed to eat. It should clean up ok, and I'm getting a new stainless tray on order.

As for the final color....it's various shades of sand/tan now, and with the rear body work needed, there may be a color change below the beltline, we will see.
 
This is what I was talking about, just need to see if there is another nut or anything that I'm missing..



Also...looks like I have more of a problem than I first imagined, but I'm not surprised. When I got this 60, the ignition switch was messed up and I had no keys. So, I bought a used ignition switch and key from an 85 FJ60. Got it today, tried to install, and noticed I have another, possibly bigger, problem. When I take off the wired part, I can tell that the rectangular slot is not present to turn the switched part. It looks broken off? Stumped on this one. Any ideas?



 
Switched part?? What do you mean on the key side? Or wiring loom ?
 
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If you are missing that tab then your right it won't turn the wiring switch when you turn the key.
I have the housing (pictured) if you need that.?
 
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If you are missing that tab then your right it won't turn the wiring switch when you turn the key.
I have the housing (pictured) if you need that.?

yes. that is what I'm missing. the tab is broken (who knows how?) and the switched part won't turn, it just spins. The keyed switch you sent works great.

thanks for the help.

I'll send PM.
 
Ben this is the part you need!
I mailed it off to you!
Read pm I sent you
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well, good news first.

1. The key and switch and parts that @89fjlandcruiser sent me fixed that. Key switch works good now. Interior is back complete.
2. Got a new pushrod from Beno, installed, and seems to be working fine
3. Belt tensioners worked as they should. Small victories.

Bad news...

1. Won't run except on starting fluid sprayed directly into the carb. Has a Trollhole carb and desmogged. Gas is getting to the carb via a new fuel pump. (Cracked the line at the carb and cranked it over...gas came out forcefully). There is no gas in the sight glass. I had it running on starting fluid for about 10 seconds just to see.....it idled fine. Still no gas in the sight glass. Also, no gas is sprayed into the carb when I pump the gas pedal. As soon as I operated the throttle manually from under the hood it choked off. I have a carb rebuild kit on order for a stock 83 FJ60 Aisin carb in hopes that it will work on the Trollhole....I hope so. Anyone rebuilt a Trollhole?



So....rebuild the carb, test compression, and when its running, check timing and adjust the valves.
 
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One step at a time.! Your doing well keep it up.
Glad that switch worked for you!
 
There is no gas in the sight glass. I had it running on starting fluid for about 10 seconds just to see.....it idled fine. Still no gas in the sight glass. Also, no gas is sprayed into the carb when I pump the gas pedal.


If there is no fuel in the fuel bowl (i.e. no fuel coming 1/2 way up the viewing glass on the front of the fuel bowl), and the fuel pump is working correctly, then most likely there is a problem with valve assembly or float.

I'm not familiar with the Trollhole carbs, but I imagine you can remove the airhorn to gain access to the valve assembly and float. If the float is made out of metal (hollow), then there have been issues on the Aisin carbs with those metal floats cracking at the seam and flooding so they no longer float properly. That would keep the valve assembly closed.

If the valve assembly is improperly adjusted (for specs on the Aisin carb, see the Toyota FSM and PinHead Youtube videos...not sure what the specs would be on the Trollhole), then it could be not opening enough to let fuel into the fuel bowl.

Also, could be just junk caught in the screen at the inlet to the carb (where the fuel line ties into the top of the carb). If you pull the air horn and disconnect that fuel line at the inlet, you can spray carb cleaner back through that circuit and it should push any junk caught on the outside of the screen out...
 
while waiting on my carb rebuild kit, went looking for other issues, and have some questions

with the Trollhole carb, which side of the connector does the carb wire plug in to?



the wiring on these connectors is questionable, but are they needed? On the driver side front wheel well.



Last one....there are three wires that come out of the harness below the brake booster.....2 of the wires terminate at the carb electrical connector....and one that has been clipped. Don't see where it should go?

 
It lives!

So this Cruiser has a Trollhole carb, which I am a fan of ( I installed one on my 55 and was happy with it ) not to mention the amount of vacuum lines that it gets rid of. When I picked up this 60, it didn't run, and I could tell that it had been messed with under the hood, so I was suspicious of everything. Didn't know what was going on with the carb or how old it was, so I ordered up a carb rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters for a 1983 stock Aisin carb and wasted 3 days waiting for it to get here. I had seen a new blurbs here on Mud that the kit would work. Well, nothing worked from the rebuild kit. So, since I had the carb apart anyway, I just cleaned everything and made sure everything moved as it should and looked complete. Put it all back together, poured some gas down the carb to prime it, and it ran. Few adjustments and it smoothed out. Has a bad exhaust leak coming from multiple places, but that is small potatoes. Exhaust comes out of the small pipe that attaches to the main exhaust pipe and runs back up to the engine bay, so that needs to be dealt with. Couldn't really tell if there were noises coming from the valvetrain due to the broken pushrod that I found because of the exhaust leaks, but it sounded smooth enough.

Busy this weekend, but when I get back to it, I hope to drive it out of the garage under its own power. Also, picked up a new tailgate to replace my rusty one.

Hey @Trollhole , do you sell parts to rebuild your carbs? Don't need it now, but may soon.

Any ideas on what those 3 connectors are on the driver side fender well in the above pic?
 
Any ideas on what those 3 connectors are on the driver side fender well in the above pic?

Good work man!!

Which connectors, the green ones or the blue ones with the clipped wires?
 

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