60 that followed me home (1 Viewer)

[onemanarmy]

The three with the green connectors that sit on the fenderwell. It run fine as is, and is desmogged, so I don't know if they are needed

 

[GLTHFJ60]

They're not needed. I could go back and look up exactly what each one is, but they're all smog related connections IIRC.

 

[onemanarmy]

I'm gonna dig through some wiring diagrams at some point, but I think you're right. Bigger fish to fry at this point.

Thanks

 

[Slow Left]

The wire connectors you showed in the previous post go to the following components. AI stands for Air Injection and EGR for Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

EDIT: ...and VSV stands for Vacuum Switching Valve

 

[Slow Left]

Here is a set of images that might help you identify the proper components/routing for what is missing. The Emissions FSM also has such images and contains systems checks as well.

 

[Slow Left]

Last one....there are three wires that come out of the harness below the brake booster.....2 of the wires terminate at the carb electrical connector....and one that has been clipped. Don't see where it should go?

So those wires that come off the blue connectors lead to the fuel cut solenoid on the carb? And you are unsure where the cut wire is supposed to lead?

On my rig, the wires that lead to the fuel cut solenoid share the same harness extension as the one that leads to the temperature sensor for the carb cooling fan. Also, there is a wire that leads up to the cap on the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir.

 

[onemanarmy]

Yep. The two wires with the blue connects lead to the fuel cut solenoid. There is a single wire that is clipped. Makes sense that it may be for a sensor. I'll look for those two locations you mentioned. It does appear that the wire may be for a sensor.

 

[Slow Left]

The image below shows where that temp sensor for the carb cooling fan is located (the red arrow points to where the sensor is attached).

Here is the thread where I poached the image from:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-fan-wire-help.277100/

 

[onemanarmy]

@Slow Left
Those PDFs help a ton, and a few I hadn't seen before.

Its running, kinda fixed the choke cable (made a bracket due to the threads being broken where the nut threads against the dash) and am in the process of organizing the vacuum lines. Hope to have it moving under its own power this weekend.

 

[Slow Left]

There is a single wire that is clipped. Makes sense that it may be for a sensor. I'll look for those two locations you mentioned. It does appear that the wire may be for a sensor.

I just thought of an easy test you can try to see if that clipped wire might be for the thermal sensor for the carb cooling fan. After you run the engine up to temperature and have shut off the engine and removed the key from the ignition, if you don't hear the carb cooling fan kick on, try temporarily touching that clipped wire to ground (chassis) and listen to see if the carb cooling fan kicks on. If it does, then that's the wire. If it doesn't, it still might belong to the thermal sensor on the carb cooling fan, though, it just means that there is another component on that circuit that is also bad (like the 'Dome' fuse or the carb cooling fan relay or timer...).

 

[onemanarmy]

I was just reading through some other threads this morning about the cooling fan, and saw the idea of grounding the wire. Question though, will grounding the wire make the fan come on instantly, regardless of engine temp? If that wire was for a sensor, then grounding it just takes the senor out of the equation and the fan won't know the difference, right? So it could just be put on a toggle switch?

I'll try that and see. I feel confident that is what the wire was for. The person that did the desmog got a little cut happy, not too bad, but there are some loose ends.

Thanks

 

[onemanarmy]

Getting close to a maiden voyage. Tracked down a new tailgate (used) that is rust free, really cleaned up the look. Tried two colors of Rustoleum (sand and almond) but one is too light and one is too dark, for my faded paint anyway. I think 'sand' would match fresh Toyota paint OK. Still 1000 times better than it was.

I think I've figured out the desmog, thanks to MUD, and gonna tie up some loose ends this weekend (like the carb fan, dome fuse checks ok) and take her for a spin.

I'm sure some gremlins will pop up, and I know there is a decent exhaust leak (well, leaks) but nothing too major.

Other than OME, are there any other good spring options for a small lift?

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Taller shackles

 

[onemanarmy]

Taller shackles

yes, that is a cheap method, and I've gone that route before. Will again most likely when I buy new tires (31x10.5)

 

[NCFJ]

I have a set of OME/ARB stock height replacement springs that came off an 86 FJ60. I have no idea how many miles on them. PM me if you are interested. I might still have the shocks too. They were on a truck I purchased for the frame.

 

[hj 60]

Awesome you got it running (without spending to much money)
Below is a link to the maintenance manual, might help you a bit to get some diff fluid checks before you really drive away?

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6D936BcfemZTGpOcFNSdWxNX1E/edit?pli=1

I hope it drives fine in 4x4 low (because that is what needs to be done)

 

[onemanarmy]

Changed the oil and topped off the rest of the fluids and drove it about 10 miles last night, and then drove it to work this morning, and it didn't break down ( not yet, anyway)

Still quite rough around the edges, but have to get it inspected (safety) before I can get a plate, so the plan is to take care of that this afternoon.

Got the carb cooling fan working by grounding the mystery wire I had seen earlier. Will the carb fan cut off on its on after a while? I don't have it grounded permanently yet.

Still lots to do, but small victories are victories none the less. Got to adjust the valves and check compression, the thing won't even pull a slight grade around town.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Good luck with the inspection.

FYI, the "safety" inspection in NC includes a "tampering inspection" where they check to see if the emissions gear is in place or not. I was unable to get my 60 inspected (with a desmogged 2F) in Wake County as a result.

 

[NCFJ]

If the inspection becomes an issue registering it in SC might be an option. I do not know the exact wording, but, if you store your vehicle in SC more than half the year you can register it in SC. Heather knows the details. I could write you a storage contract for the shop address and you register and insure it in SC. Drive it where you chose.

 

[onemanarmy]

If the inspection becomes an issue registering it in SC might be an option. I do not know the exact wording, but, if you store your vehicle in SC more than half the year you can register it in SC. Heather knows the details. I could write you a storage contract for the shop address and you register and insure it in SC. Drive it where you chose.

well that's interesting. the emissions gear is in the vehicle, just in the cargo area.

I've never had trouble with my older vehicles as far as inspection goes, I don't even recall them ever opening the hood. But, each station is different and each inspector is different, so we will have to see. I'm gonna try this afternoon, will report back.