Door Lock Actuator Replacement (6 Viewers)

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I just replaced all five actuators on my 100 and wanted to share a tip. The hardest part for me was getting the "door handle" rod to separate from the yellow connector. After using a hammer and punch on the first three with limited success, I tried a different approach.

I sprayed the plastic and rod with penetrating oil and let it sit for a few minutes. I then used a spring loaded punch instead of the hammer and punch. I placed the punch right on the end of the rod.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/data:image...5x5PujD4cyqrh5SjL4GtLu7Tv15rzOjZA2JuMAA//2Q==
On the passengers side it popped out on the first punch. It took two tries on the drivers side.

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread and especially JonHarris for supplying the motors.

I just did my fifth actuator and will share a couple more tips:

I broke at least one yellow connector. I tried heat and penetrating oil (don't have a spring loaded punch) and punching them. On the last two doors, I just removed the door handle - two more bolts is all it takes - then you can use some pliers and separate the yellow connector from the rod.

Also, don't oven bake the rear assemblies to pry them apart, unless you watch them very carefully. The white plastic parts of the rear assemblies are prone to melting due to their elongated shapes. Use a hair dryer or take the assembly out of the oven and cool the white plastic every few minutes by running it under water.
 
I just did my fifth actuator and will share a couple more tips:

I broke at least one yellow connector. I tried heat and penetrating oil (don't have a spring loaded punch) and punching them. On the last two doors, I just removed the door handle - two more bolts is all it takes - then you can use some pliers and separate the yellow connector from the rod.

Also, don't oven bake the rear assemblies to pry them apart, unless you watch them very carefully. The white plastic parts of the rear assemblies are prone to melting due to their elongated shapes. Use a hair dryer or take the assembly out of the oven and cool the white plastic every few minutes by running it under water.

Did you order new yellow connectors? I broke one also and just rigged up what was supposed to be a temporary solution that has lasted a year. However, I'm concerned it will break and then what? I can't open up door?

So I want to fix it right.
 
No, mine didn't break badly enough to be unusable. But I would have used a drywall anchor like you did if that was the case!
 
Guys, THANK you for such a great write up. I purchased a few replacement motors and attempted the fix tonight. The best trick in the book was to use a hot air gun to raise the temp of the lock assembly and it snapped right open. I also found that removing the exterior handle allowed me to remove the clips without breaking them.

Anyway, after all the hard work, I still have the same problem! Doh! My lock actuator will unlock just fine, it just does NOT lock the door. Has anyone seen this problem? From what I can tell, there is no electricity going to the motor at all. Is this a programmable feature?

Enjoy some photos of my work.

2013-08-28 18.54.09.jpg


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2013-08-28 18.54.01.jpg
 
If the door unlocks, you have power going to motor. The motor should reverse polarity to lock/unlock. You should check to see if the door locks from other door lock switch. If so, you probably have a bad switch.
 
Nvm just I got it off but killed the collar trying to press it on a motor without a collar oh how I love the feeling
 
what timely post...I said screw it yesterday and got it off. I left the actuator in the door and managed to undo the screws and get the shell/clamp/ out.

How in the world did you manage that? Did you unscrew the actuator, and kick it sideways to undo the screws on the side of the clam/shell ?

I have my door half pulled apart right now. I'm ready to pull the entire assembly out, but I have to drive somewhere shortly. I'll be pulling it out later this evening or tomorrow morning.

Most of this process has been fairly easy, but trying to put the details together on how to pull the actual actuator out has been a little sketchy.
 
Swapped a bad motor out today.

Thanks everyone who took the time to take pictures and explain things.

The hardest part to me was getting the actuator out, and getting the clamshell apart.

To remove the actuator from the car, you must unhook the two top linkages to the exterior door handle, the white plastic shroud over the cables to the lock/inside handle, disconnect the cables from the inside door lock/handle, unscrew the window track bolt, and 3 screws that hold the actuator in place on the door. At that point, you should be able to slide the actuator down and out of the lower hole. Unplug the wiring harness at some point as well.

For opening the clamshell, just heating it up was not enough for me. I tried screw drivers, chisel, love taps, etc. After I let it sit in my dehydrator for an hour or so, I used an Irwin quick grip clamp. I clamped the clamshell in sideways where one side was touching the top piece, and one touching the bottom and began cranking down with it. This did end up with a small amount of breakage, but I used the same epoxy to put that piece back in as I was going to use to seal the lid back up. I also was unable to just use a little epoxy in a few places. I tried this and the motor just opened it right back up.

A special thanks to JonHaris for taking the time to stock the motors and provide assistance as needed.
 
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I could not get epoxy to hold the clamshell halves together. So I added a loop of wire and twisted it tight. Sorta redneck. Worked great.
 
Has anyone replaced the motor and it works backwards. I have replaced mine now when I unlock it it locks and vise versa
 
GX 470 lock actuator

Hi been reading all these posts about ordering the motors on ebay, but I dont see where anybody has had this work on a Lexus GX470? I contacted one of the vendors on Ebay selling the motors
Mabuchi FC280PC-22125 but he was not sure either. Can anybody tell me if this motor works on my 03 GX 470 door lock actuator please?
 
Hi been reading all these posts about ordering the motors on ebay, but I dont see where anybody has had this work on a Lexus GX470? I contacted one of the vendors on Ebay selling the motors
Mabuchi FC280PC-22125 but he was not sure either. Can anybody tell me if this motor works on my 03 GX 470 door lock actuator please?


Did you pull the actuator from your door ?


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Hi been reading all these posts about ordering the motors on ebay, but I dont see where anybody has had this work on a Lexus GX470? I contacted one of the vendors on Ebay selling the motors
Mabuchi FC280PC-22125 but he was not sure either. Can anybody tell me if this motor works on my 03 GX 470 door lock actuator please?

I've never had anyone try the actuator in a GX. That motor works on at least a half a dozen models so it would be very possible but you would need to remove the actuator and compare to the dimensions of the Mabuchi FC280PC-22125 to be certain.
 
Has anyone replaced the motor and it works backwards. I have replaced mine now when I unlock it it locks and vise versa

Its not likely an issue with the motor but the orientation of the worm gear. Unless somehow you reversed he wires while you were in there. I've not heard of this happening before. Sounds funny and frustrating at the same time. "Did I really just unlock the truck?"
 
Its not likely an issue with the motor but the orientation of the worm gear. Unless somehow you reversed he wires while you were in there. I've not heard of this happening before. Sounds funny and frustrating at the same time. "Did I really just unlock the truck?"


The thing is that The drivers door which is the motor that I replaced locks and locks vice versa with the rest of the locks the thing that gets me is that using the stock remote and even the key when I turn my key to unlock your locks on my door electronically and it does the opposite to the drivers door


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The thing is that The drivers door which is the motor that I replaced locks and locks vice versa with the rest of the locks the thing that gets me is that using the stock remote and even the key when I turn my key to unlock your locks on my door electronically and it does the opposite to the drivers door

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It works opposite with the key as well? If so, then you've either got the S hooks on the cables connected to the wrong sides of the white plastic "V" on the clamshell, or when the shell was open, you accidentally flopped it to the other position. I.E. locked position at the clamshell, but unlocked at the door mechanism.
 
Its not likely an issue with the motor but the orientation of the worm gear. Unless somehow you reversed he wires while you were in there. I've not heard of this happening before. Sounds funny and frustrating at the same time. "Did I really just unlock the truck?"


Is the worm gear go in. Certain way?


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