It works proper withy the key but the electronics are trying to lock it when I'm trying to unlock it with the key
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Door Lock Actuator Replacement (5 Viewers)
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It works proper withy the key but the electronics are trying to lock it when I'm trying to unlock it with the key
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hello.
I'm new at ih8mud.
I have a stock fzj73, 1FZ-FE engine, land cruiser.
As the actuator for passenger door moves weakly, i decided to go to toyota dealership a month ago to buy a door lock assembly. I asked today for the spare and they told me it would delay 45 days more and cost 3 times the original price. As I read this post before, I cancelled the order.
I went to the electronics shop and I've found a repalcement motor for 3500 colombian pesos (less than 2 US dollars). I'll install it later.
Thank you very much for this post.
I'm new at ih8mud.
I have a stock fzj73, 1FZ-FE engine, land cruiser.
As the actuator for passenger door moves weakly, i decided to go to toyota dealership a month ago to buy a door lock assembly. I asked today for the spare and they told me it would delay 45 days more and cost 3 times the original price. As I read this post before, I cancelled the order.
I went to the electronics shop and I've found a repalcement motor for 3500 colombian pesos (less than 2 US dollars). I'll install it later.
Thank you very much for this post.
Ok, I didn't look close enough to the title and I am actually working on my power sliding door actuator. I actually bought these motors thinking these were a replacement for the PSD actuator motor. I took the actuator apart and behold it uses the same motor. That was lucky. I compared the motor that I bought to the one I removed and they match.
A Cruiser with a power sliding door? Must be pretty trick. 
Heifer-net
Heifer-net
My 05 just became all "bugger-boo'd". When using either the fob or the power lock/unlock button, the manual locking lever on the drivers side door fails to move. It stays in whatever position it's in. As a result, when locking the doors with the fob, the lever stays in the open position thus forcing all doors to unlock again. FWIW, the alarm does become active even with the doors unlocked, just ask my wife. 
Having not read all 286 posts prior, has anyone else had this issue or thoughts?
Thanks.
Having not read all 286 posts prior, has anyone else had this issue or thoughts?
Thanks.
It sounds like a bad door lock actuator motor. If JonHaris is still selling these motors, it's about $6 and a 1.5 banana job with some patience. If he's not selling them right now, send me a message and I'll send you one my extras if you want to DIY repair it.
Thank you TXLX, I will do that. Going outside now to take the door panel off and see if I can find something else that might be causing the proble
I have sent an email to jonharris, but have not heard back yet (2 days). TLX how many do you have available that you're willing to part with. Please PM me if you can part with some?
I don't know if you noticed or not, but Woody just did a total forum migration to a new software. This involved him sitting at the computer for literally the past two days. The last message he posted on his facebook and google+ page was that we're back up, but a bunch of the nearly unnoticeables wouldn't be fully functional for another day or so.
I'd say chances are, he hasn't rec'd it or Woody hasn't finished that portion of the crossover.
My $0.02
Give him another day or so, I bet he'll respond. I have enough to do a complete truck, but I'll let one or two go if JonH doesn't have any right now. I can't imagine he makes any money providing the motor/servos, so I don't want to stand in his way of moving any of his inventory.
I posted this in Lances thread too. Trying to get any help I can.
"Oh, another tidbit of info, I took my door apart and noticed that the lever and cable doesn't fully move the tumbler very easily.
With key in keyhole = yes
Manually = yes (with the lever)
Key fob or power lock switch = NO"
"Oh, another tidbit of info, I took my door apart and noticed that the lever and cable doesn't fully move the tumbler very easily.
With key in keyhole = yes
Manually = yes (with the lever)
Key fob or power lock switch = NO"
Yes, appreciate the low margin that he is working. I used the hotmail addy in his original post rather than his ih8mud PM box because of the forum upgrades (which I think are awesome! I think the forum in general is more responsive too!). I'd like to know if JonH is all out before I go and pay more elsewhere - I'd also rather give JonH the biz.
I desperately need two actuator motors, but would ultimately like to replace all 5. There are some on ebay with brass collars, but they are pricey at $13.
Doh! My bad....there's only one "r" in jonharis. My email to Jon disappeared into the hotmail system...and didn't make it to Jon - I have resent.
jonharis
Adventure Imports
Hey Everyone, I'm still here... yes, name is intentionally spelled wrong to reduce unwanted email...not that yours was unwanted. I have been sold out for a while and had a bit of interest building. I am happy to order another large batch, pricing will be the same as it has been. There is a separate thread for purchase requests that can be found in my sig line, let's keep this thread to the tech side of the replacement. I'll try to respond to everyone's PMs in the next couple of days.
You are correct about the margin. I don't make really any money on these. Anyone who has shipped anything can attest to the time spent packaging and going to the post office. I'm just happy to help. The ebay stuff is all over the map with regards to price and quality. The product I have sold has been identical for the entire time i've sold it and comes from the same manufacturer. I don't hunt for better deals becaus eI know this works...and works right.
Update on mine. I successfully tore the door apart without breaking most things. I cleaned, lubricated every nook and cranny thinking that might do the trick.
Nope, same thing.
So I took apart the "door locking assembly" that has the "door lock actuator" attached to it. I then proceeded to split the actuator and remove the motor (Mabuchi FC 280PC-22125). There are two types in the same standard length for those that didn't catch it. Ours, or mine has a flat side on the shaft to drive the worm gear.
I opened the motor and it was covered in what I assume is carbon from the brushes. One of the brushes is nearly gone so I've decided to just buy a new one. There are a few sellers out there, but I think someone here on Mud would be best to order from (Jon perhaps).
Anyway, that's my dilemma, I thought it was physical and just wouldn't be moved easily. Apparently that is how they're meant to be because these motors have a high rpm and nearly zero torque. In my case, I believe that by not having good contact points, my motor was barely turning and had zero force behind it.
So, there's my observation/hypothesis. If that doesn't work, then naturally I won't post here and I'll just save face.
I kid, I kid.
Nope, same thing.
So I took apart the "door locking assembly" that has the "door lock actuator" attached to it. I then proceeded to split the actuator and remove the motor (Mabuchi FC 280PC-22125). There are two types in the same standard length for those that didn't catch it. Ours, or mine has a flat side on the shaft to drive the worm gear.
I opened the motor and it was covered in what I assume is carbon from the brushes. One of the brushes is nearly gone so I've decided to just buy a new one. There are a few sellers out there, but I think someone here on Mud would be best to order from (Jon perhaps).
Anyway, that's my dilemma, I thought it was physical and just wouldn't be moved easily. Apparently that is how they're meant to be because these motors have a high rpm and nearly zero torque. In my case, I believe that by not having good contact points, my motor was barely turning and had zero force behind it.
So, there's my observation/hypothesis. If that doesn't work, then naturally I won't post here and I'll just save face.
I kid, I kid.
Final update (for now): I replaced my servo motor and the locks are now working as they should.
However, I would like to add that when reassembling the black actuator/motor control box be sure to use plenty of epoxy. Mine came apart allowing the worm gear and motor to spin freely. Naturally it didn't happen until after I got the door back together.
Thanks to TXLX100 and Jon.
However, I would like to add that when reassembling the black actuator/motor control box be sure to use plenty of epoxy. Mine came apart allowing the worm gear and motor to spin freely. Naturally it didn't happen until after I got the door back together.
Thanks to TXLX100 and Jon.
Ive emailed and PM'd Jonharis.
Does anyone know if these will work on a 2009 Toyota Camry?
Thanks
Does anyone know if these will work on a 2009 Toyota Camry?
Thanks
Looks like Jon is out of stock for time being. Mine work off and on, so I'm in no hurry. I'll wait for Jon's to get in to make sure I'm getting a good one.
I'm in need of at least one, would like to have a few on hand. If Jon is out, does anyone have an extra or two?
