Dddddd
Last edited:
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Bloody Basin would make a great 'stocker-friendly' run that nobody could get into trouble on - we saw a number of cars on it, and it's in great shape with only one concrete dam water crossing on the Agua Fria about 10mi in (from the West).
I seemed to make a real dent in the rubbing up front. Now, I've discovered the back wheels rub too.
I don't know if I need taller bump stops or a body lift or both.my goal is/was 35's on this vehicle...these are only 285/75's.
Bluesdawg (and his trusty 80) was there to offer prompt rescue.
Also along, were our two 4 year olds (Sam and Greyson)
IMHO body lifts are bad bad bad. Zero change in suspension (such as more travel = better articulation = chances of better traction, since your tires are in contact with the ground... and it gets the body AND the frame and drivetrain higher up.
What suspension lift do you have? Don't be shy about trimming plastic. It's only plastic...
I believe "Crusty" and "Dusty" would be more descriptive than "Trusty". Especially with 2 - 4 year olds
Actually was a great day - and we met at 10:30 not 11:00!
It was FR 468 and was newly signed. I need to track it on Google Earth - I could see it on mapquest's satellite view just south of FR 41, but it is hard to tell road from wash...
Not sure why my post looks like its all a quote? I seem to have some IH8MUD mobile app problems - but we all have problems, thats why we are here, right?
You edited out a "[\" right before the "QUOTE]". HTML syntax. But, you can blame your app...
IMHO body lifts are bad bad bad.
Zero change in suspension (such as more travel = better articulation = chances of better traction, since your tires are in contact with the ground...
and it gets the body AND the frame and drivetrain higher up.
...
I appreciate the input! I was thinking of doing something similar to this guy...
Here are the specs:
http://www.newmexicobackroads.com/p/truck.html
Here are the pics:
http://newmexicobackroads.smugmug.c...R-4Runer/13140611_tS92m6#!i=953067965&k=c69Ms
Except that body lifts do NOTHING to improve the suspension performance. It's simply impossible to expect otherwise. Ain't gonna happen.
...
There's a bunch of IFS suspension lifts that actually work quite well. Total Chaos, All-Pro, just to name 2. ...
...
I'm not saying he should go with 12" lift... but he wants to run 35s on a 3rd gen 4Runner. A mild suspension lift and a body lift isn't gonna do it. Well, sure I guess it would if he removes the bumpers, adds bigger bump stops to keep the tires out of the sheetmetal, adjust the steering stops, etc.
Sure, run a body lift. Cause it's just so much fun to relocate / lengthen the fuel filler, relocate the radiator, the shifters (if not cable actuated) are shorter now, the bumpers and sliders look goofy... no work whatsoever.
Or, just get a proper suspension lift.
I have wheeled with Jake a couple of times, very capable rig and driver.
Correct,,, well except in some cases, will allow more travel to be used. In almost all cases, bigger tires will make a rig more capable. The jump from 33" to 35" is huge in capability. If it can stuff a 33", the move to a 35" often needs ~1" of bump stop. If the body is lifted 1", often can eliminate the bump stop extension, allowing more usable travel.
Agree, there are lots of lifts.
On an IFS rig, the biggest limiting factor is the CV axle angle. So unless the axle is changed, all of the lifts are very close in ride height and travel range, they have to be for the CV joints to have a prayer to live. This is why bigger tires are the most effective way to increase capability, the recipe to get it done is very similar for any of the lifts.
Lots of 3rd gen owners have run/wheeled 35" tires very successfully without the significant FUD that you are predicting.
Any lift, big tire setup involves work. A mild body lift doesn't need most of the FUD that you are spreading. If you are limited to credit card builds, you don't have much choice and the stuff is going to look "goofy". If you have fab skills, (like JJ) it's much simpler to change the slider, etc, mounts to make them fit, than to cut out, change the wheel wells, etc. Often, slider, etc, mounts are simpler to make (straighter), will be stronger and have more clearance with the body lift.
So, now, the lift that JJ has isn't "proper"? Why, because it isn't what you would choose, or do you have a more reasonable/solid explanation? In my experience, it is a very well known/developed lift, that is used by many who aggressively wheel with big tires. Has proven to be a very good lift that wheels well and has relatively civilised road manners/ride.
Whatever. I don't like (and did have, and removed, and was glad I did) a body lift on a previous FJ40. I wouldn't recommend one. Some people like them. Again, whatever. I'm out.