Stage 1 Build Begun (1 Viewer)

[jkilcullen]

Well I have been collecting parts since the purchase of my LX and have found a suitable name for her... Darkside, for a multitude of reasons the name just fits.

But here is what has been done so far and what I am still waiting on as of Sunday night.

Springs installed OME 851/860 with Metaltech 2" front spring spacers

Stacked 1" rear bump stop spacers fabricated and installed (total 2")

Stacked 1" front swaybar drop spacers fabricated and installed (total 2")

Rear sway bar removed and discarded

Shock measurements made and Procomp 927514/927530 shocks ordered and should arrive Tuesday

Made some temporary brake line and breather modifications to account for the additional droop

Relabeled Hazard switch installed as CDL and Pin 7 Mod complete

Half tread 315/75/16 old style MTRs awaiting mounting on stock wheels

Harbor Freight 12k Badlands Winch clocked for mounting on Badlands Winch Plate between frame rails inside stock bumper with wireless remote

Relocated Windshield washer bottle to top left section under hood in order to free up space for a homemade dual battery setup

Planning an easy in and out interior rear cargo spare tire mount as well as some temporary tool storage as I use the cruiser for moving stuff when not on offroad trips and need all that rear cargo area. Open to suggestions here.

Once the tires are mounted in the next couple days, shocks come in and I finish up the winch and dual battery setup it will be trial time.

Thanks to a couple good buddies coming over to give some moral support, a half a bottle of Fireball Whiskey countless light beers, and all the very informative write ups here on mud all the above work was accomplished yesterday and this morning.

Only thing I am debating is to leave the factory running boards until they are destroyed or pull em off as preventative measure Sliders aren't in the budget so thinking maybe the factory boards provide some sort of protection

Leaving for The Badlands in Attica, IN on Nov 9th for a 2 day test run. If anyone is interested in joining pm me for our trip details.

 

[jkilcullen]

Couple more pics

 

[shockervang]

I'm thinking about getting that same winch, let me know how it works.

 

[neatus]

looking good man. Keep the pics coming.

 

[jkilcullen]

Shockervang, I will report back after the trip. But I did disassemble the winch, clock it to change location of freespool lever, seal motor housing, planetary housing, solenoid box as well as regrease the planetary with Mobil grease. And I would recommend everyone buying this winch to do the same.

Thanks Neatus more pics to come.

And anyone reading this that wants some details feel free to ask questions. I'm not one for write ups but am more than willing to help a fellow mud member seeking some info. I will say that all of the work was pretty easy with the biggest hassle being the mounting of the winch plate/winch and tucking it all in the bumper. It is a very tight fit.

 

[jkilcullen]

Darkside is back on the road (and off for a bit today), still haven't finished bumper mounting due to strongly considering cutting it down some on the corners. But the rest of the truck is done including the winch and dual battery setup. Dropping it off Sunday by the exhaust shop to get a little custom breathing installed. Then its off to Badlands!!!!!

But a question for you guys... I am really second guessing making the spacers for front sway bar opposed to just yanking it out. The rear flexes like mad and tucks the 315's perfectly (sway bar removed). The front not so much... So who of you is running a similar setup 3-4" lift with no sway bars and how do you like it? I am very comfortable with the idea as I have run without swaybars in a ton of my Jeeps but Jeeps also weigh in about half the weight of the cruiser.

 

[jkilcullen]

Well after doing some before and after with and without front swaybar I am not seeing any real improvement offroad and a huge loss of handling, steering response and in my opinion safety on road by having it removed. Also did a little searching here on MUD and came to the conclusion that the rear swaybar really doesn't inhibit flex nearly as much as I assumed it would. So it will be going back on too. Any need for me to drop it down like I did in the front? But for now here are some poser flex shots on a rock I found this morning on the way to drop the truck by the exhaust shop both sway bars removed in these pics. I will hit up this same rock in this same fashion with the bars back on next week. Also finished cutting up front bumper and mounting it last night. Let me know what you think of my new EURO style custom Illinois front plate

As far as issues to discuss and I have searched but haven't found what I am looking for. I am at a loss as to why the brake pedal is so crappy. It just fades down to the floor with the truck running. I can pump it up and it fades down again. If truck is off pedal remains very firm. I have bled and rebled the brakes and there is no air anywhere even burped the lines at the abs and master just in case. I am familiar with brake systems but struggling with why the pedal can fade? It is not leaking anywhere. Also truck stops pretty well pedal is just awful feeling. Brake pedal feel was greatly affected in the negative a few months back when I did all new rear brakes but it seems with the lift the pedal is even worse any ideas and a way to test the theory would be appreciated as I am not willing to just throw parts at it.

 

[jkilcullen]

Also any tips for improving front flex and maintaining the radius arm design or is it necessary to link it to see real world changes? Anyone pulled the radius arms and installed heims or similar in place of the OE bushings on the frame side? Have to pull the arms regardless as my caster needs some adjustment before its ready for long trips. And putting some sort of really high quality joint like you would see in your typical aftermarket control arm seems like it would allow a lot more axle articulation. Or am I just missing something...

 

[mercedeezel]

with regards to the brake issue, have you bled the lspv? i had the same issue as you after lifting my 80. i went for the level look. but had to jack the rear of my truck up to mimic the stinkbug look in order to bleed the brakes properly. i dont know if it was just dumb luck, coincidence, or what but the pedal improved greatly afterward. on the front flex issue, do you think the procomp shocks are too short?

 

[biker1007]

The shocks are the same I have in the front. They are not the limiting factor, the radius arms are. I searched everyone else's setup on here before lifting mine and went with the 863 (heavy) rear springs and 850J fronts. the stiffer springs in the rear force the front to flex more evenly with the rear. Reinstalling the rear swaybar will have a similar effect and help flex.

I've settled on the amount of flex out of the front for a truck I drive on the street, but mine flexes better by your pics.

Also, my shocks seem severely under dampened and getting worse after only 6 months. The driver behind me on my last wheeling trip was worried I would tip from bouncing side to side so much. I took it more seriously since he was in a 60 on 37's.

 

[jkilcullen]

Have bled the LSPV repeatedly with no improvements. My truck is pretty level so I will give a try to jack up the back and bleed some more. I am not convinced as to how that could make a difference but at this point ill try anything.

Shocks definitely not limiting as you said biker. Sway bar will be going back on so maybe that will help as you mentioned.

 

[jkilcullen]

Well overdue for an update not too much has changed other than repainting passenger rear quarter, building of a rear sleep platform/ storage box, 4xinnovations sliders built and installed, miles have gone up, and LOTS of PM has been accomplished.

The brake issues were repaired by gutting ABS and LSPV and rerouting lines with the help of @jcardona1 's detailed explanation as well as a new master cyl.

Sway bars both on for best performance on and offroad.

HF Badlands 12k winch and wireless controller rock, no issues what so ever, it saved me from a roll over as well as pulled the heavy girl outta some nasty mud holes this last trip. Only thing I'm going to do when new bumper is installed is put synthetic rope on it.

Next mods on list are rear bumper with tire and fuel/cooler swingouts, front high clearance bumper, radio improvements, add power outlets up front and in rear. All of this in addition to some fresh rubber needs to be completed (minus frt bumper as its more of a want than a need) by June of next year for our honeymoon cross country expo trip!

 

[jkilcullen]

Some pics of last month at Badlands.

 

[jkilcullen]

And a couple more

 

[jkilcullen]

Just ordered dual swing rear and Outback front bumpers from DC Fabrications http://www.dcfabrication.com/ as well as their 11.5 gallon transfer tank for the rubicon rack swing. They still have 20% off all 80 series stuff until the 1st of the year. Dallas has been patient with my questions and concerns. I'm real excited to get my goods!

In other news, installed 2 new Group 24 Exide Edge AGM batteries a few weeks ago and found my driver rear caliper locked up the other day not happy about going in to repair the rear brakes. Less than 10k miles on new calipers and pads back there. Have some other PM to do over this holiday weekend swapping in some OEM belts and a new egr solenoid.

Beginning Jan 1 its countdown to Wedding (June 27th) I'm going to arrange shipping of the truck to Oregon for the beginning of June. So all mods need to be finished and exercised before then! Gonna need to sell a lot of houses to fund all the wrath getting unleashed on my credit card over the next few months

One question to those reading anyone know how the Duiser Offroad Caster Plates are?
http://duiser.com/shop/80-series-suspension-components/caster-correction-plates/

For $100 they are quite cheaper than others I've seen but can't find any info about anyone installing them or even owning them.

 

[dirtyboots]

Is Darkside named after a person's call sign you knew? Hijack over have fun with the build bummer on the caliper.

 

[jkilcullen]

Lol no name didn't stick. Never really thought about it after I decided she is just a she and a fat she at that.

 

[Phares]

Lol no name didn't stick. Never really thought about it after I decided she is just a she and a fat she at that.

We are talking about the 80 and not the fiancé right? Cause you could totally call your wife Darkside...the truck is looking good. I am also in the beginning stages of an 80 build. Keep it up and good luck on the nuptials.

 

[jkilcullen]

We are talking about the 80 and not the fiancé right? Cause you could totally call your wife Darkside...the truck is looking good. I am also in the beginning stages of an 80 build. Keep it up and good luck on the nuptials.

Lol good one, and thanks! Really getting pumped for the trip.

Got my PM done yesterday and holy crap for anyone changing belts on the 80 buy OEM! They are cheap off Amazon and it makes a larger than normal difference in engine noise. And I wasn't running crap belts before, they were Gates. And for the record I'm definitely not an OEM guy, I buy what makes sense at the time. Also fingers crossed that I beat the P0401 finally with an Amazon sourced Dorman 911-850 vsv solenoid, I had already replaced all associated vacuum lines and relocated original from underneath intake manifold.

 

[Rhys Webb]

The big girl is looking good. As for making the front react a little better I found having a dis-connectable front sway bar did help with getting the front end to react better with the back. My bus at the moment is 3" lifted with a 4" shock (I am using heavy dudty dobinson's coils [spring company here in australia] front and rear and old man emu shocks) and find it works really well but i am wishing i had gone for a slightly longer shock but not really necessary. I also extended my rear sway bar mounts to bring it back to standard geometry and that probably helped.

And here is the standard poser shot of the old girl at close to full flex