Bypassing Rear Heater... Please Help Me Understand (1 Viewer)

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Sep 23, 2009
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Location
Hurst, Texas
Even after reading the many threads and individual posts about bypassing the rear heater, I still have questiuons.

The passenger side is drop-dear simple... even I understand it.

My confusion comes from the driver's side.

Looking at the metal pipe that connects to the heater valve and the pipe to the main heater and the rear heater (that's three "connections"), I can count four "ends" or "nipples." Where does the 4th "nipple" connect to?

Please see my photo ...

Thanks for helping!

Rob

LandCruiserHoseDiagram.jpg
 
straight hose on pass side lose the t pull the rear hoses throw in the trash, on drivers side replace the 2 connecter hoses and the metal splitter, just get a hose with a 90 bend connect to the firewall back out to your u connecter then straight hose to the heater switch on the firewall , i just searched rear heat bypass and found it followed that
 
The answer to "where does this nipple go" question is no where. It is capped. Only the inlet and two outlets, based on usage in the application. Lose the 3 nipple tube. Connect hose from firewall to u connection.
 
The answer to "where does this nipple go" question is no where. It is capped. Only the inlet and two outlets, based on usage in the application. Lose the 3 nipple tube. Connect hose from firewall to u connection.

Bingo... "capped!" Now it makes sense! :clap:

Thanks a million, you're my hero (well you and C'Dan!) :cheers:

Rob
 
Here is what my PO did

Silverhorse, no disrespect intended, but your PO made a mess of it! If you haven't already, get rid of all those little hoses and metal junctions. You can replace 5 little hoses and 2 metal junctions with 2 properly cut hoses. that will reduce the chance of one of those older hoses from failing and giving you grief.

Wouldn't that shunt at least some of the hot water flow to your front heater? :hmm:

Yeah, looks like his PO was lazy and just stuck in that newer hose to bypass rear heater. You could do that for a field fix, but why leave it that way? It's like a time bomb for your cooling system.
 
good question. It looks as if the PO had driven it for quite some time like this. Sorry i can't answer as I have never driven the thing yet. I'm in the process of rebuilding the motor.
 
Im about to attempt this bypass. Looks like its going to be a PITA to get that drivers side hose out. Do I HAVE to use a 90 degree bent hose for that side to replace it, or will regular hose bend enough to work.

Are you guys removing your head to do this mod? My hands are by no means large and I am not even sure I can get them back there.
 
I used the OEM replacement hose because I did not want to take a chance. I have a set of long needle nose pliers in varous bent configurations that worked like a charm for me. I used a pair of dikes to cut the OEM clamps and then the needle nose pliers to pull the clamp off. Then a razor knife to cut the hose enough to make it easy to remove. The whole process, removing the seat to take the heater out and replace all the hoses (I left the steel lines in) took about hour and a half.
 
Im about to attempt this bypass. Looks like its going to be a PITA to get that drivers side hose out. Do I HAVE to use a 90 degree bent hose for that side to replace it, or will regular hose bend enough to work.

Are you guys removing your head to do this mod? My hands are by no means large and I am not even sure I can get them back there.
It is PITA if you have big hands (I hired my wife for that part of work). I removed valve from the top to make more room to work on. NAPA has hoses that can be used just go wit hold one and they will find you 90 degree custom length.
Also most likely you will destroy the heat wrap on wires next to it so get replacement heat wrap too. :cheers:
 
Maybe these will help:

IMG_0416.jpg


IMG_0415.jpg


IMG_0414.jpg
 
Even after reading the many threads and individual posts about bypassing the rear heater, I still have questiuons.

The passenger side is drop-dear simple... even I understand it.

My confusion comes from the driver's side.

Looking at the metal pipe that connects to the heater valve and the pipe to the main heater and the rear heater (that's three "connections"), I can count four "ends" or "nipples." Where does the 4th "nipple" connect to?

Please see my photo ...

Thanks for helping!

Rob

LandCruiserHoseDiagram.jpg

Do you think you can update this diagram with the correct way to do this and lose the questions?
 
why does your engine compartment look so much more roomy than mine? Mine has all kinds of stuff blocking the hoses.

Because my EGR valve and its related paraphernalia has been removed:D
 
Do you think you can update this diagram with the correct way to do this and lose the questions?

How's this? Compare to original drawing. I tried to keep it as simple as possible. Concerning the heater hoses and "T" and "metal pipe with 4 nipples", what you don't see can be illiminated. I purposely left the length off the 2 new hose sections because tastes vary for how much slack you want to leave in for routing. Buy extra and keep the remaining in your spare parts for the trail.

All right, original drawing first, and then my modified one:
FZJ80coolingprojectx019[1].jpg
FZJ80Coolinghoses1.jpg
 
Kerry,

What is the cost to replace these heater hoses with OEM? Mine blew out yesterday.

Thanks
IMG_04144.jpg
 

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