[NorCalBorn]

ROTM For Nov. '09: "Project Wimpy"


What the project started out as in the beginning it was a 1995 4Runner, 2wd, 3.90 2 pinion 3rd on 28's


2wd A340E to 4wd R150 swap, mods, etc.

The story..

Well, my 4Runner that I refer to as "Project Wimpy", our expedition/travel vehicle was originally a 2wd, auto, 3.90 2 pinion grocery getter I was almost not able to get a hold of. One of my older business customer/clients had bought it new and used it mostly for little errands and taking the dog out and about, nothing really more than 5,000-6,000 miles a year. I had a long standing battle going on with another maker's vehicle and had the offer to buy this up or she would trade it in. I had just thrown a new transmission in my truck so I declined. This was 2005..

Fast forward 2 years and I am now on our way to be newlyweds, driving over into Lake Tahoe via Hwy's 88 and 50. The truck's having some electrical issues/gremlins and we're tired of the drama. *Note to self, having a S-10 that's all baja'd out shut down completely due to an electrical short/fault (as in drivetrain and ecu) while driving down into South Lake Tahoe on the dropoff area of HWY 50 at 1am the day before the two of you are to be wed with 2000 foot cliffs and (only/barely in some cases with oncoming traffic) two lanes to careen through without any lights, power or brakes/etc. is a sure way to have me send you to a junk pile! Donated the thing to the local school shop program to let the play with it or maybe strip it down to profit off of the parts. Better than the scrap pile, right?

Well, not so great a situation there but we got through it and I decide then and there that when we get back from our honeymoon to go and call up "Mrs. X" knowing the 4Runner's been sitting at her cabin for a while and ask if the offer is still on the table.

We find out she had just traded it in finally little more than a month ago..the dealership then decided to turn it to auction and the sales guy (stupid chap if I say so myself) said "Sorry, but I'll sell you this FJ for $35k..." while I laughed and walked straight out saying "No offense but I really wasn't looking for a FJC to do expedition and trip stuff and have for a family...the visability sucks as does the interior room."

Not even 10 minutes pass while I'm pacing around the back-lot frustrated and the parts department guy (Manager) who I have known for years gets wind that "..so-and-so just blew a sale with this guy, and isn't he a club member or friend or something like that?" gives me a call on the phone to ask if I would allow him to step in and help out, as he has just called "Mrs. X" and she's gonna come down to tear apart the sales crew if they don't get me the 4Runner. I love "Mrs. X", great lady, good customer, great friend. The fact that the parts manager was there after 5pm made the deal even sweeter. Let's hear it for friends and contacts.

I say sure, figuring for the worst, as I have now seen over 10 1990-1994 4Runners locally that quite frankly were pure turds. I was figuring out my finances now as to what stocks to close out and which credit agency to choose.

4 hours pass while they're "Getting right on it..." and we goto dinner. I'm just sad at this point and thinking aloud, "..no 4Runner will ever match what she had offered, I'll have to settle..." when my phone rings. It's the parts manager friend saying "Hey, it's here, get back here now, he'll stay open until past 9pm (small used car sale guy bought it from a local dealer's only auction) so you're taken care of, "Mrs. X" says consider it payment and a late wedding present for such wonderful treatment every time you've helped her, it'll be at what he paid for it, nothing more, also call it a favor from us for being a good employee and keeping with the great customer service while here. The fact she even remembers you yet can't name who she bought her new Prius from is a testament to you."

We go out, talk to the sales guy, it's a little more than I could've gotten it for originally, but it's now detailed and really looking pristine, if possible, even more than before and he honors Mrs. X's and the dealerships request on the pricing. I've since easily sent this small dealer 6 sales just because I now have another good friend I've met through circumstance.

We take it out the next day for a camping trip and the first thing my lovely wife asks is "When are you going to start fixing it up and make it better for offroad? "

I'm puzzled and ask "Huh?".

She smiles more and says, "C'mon, armor, lift, mods, all the fun stuff so we can take it everywhere..."

*Man, do I love her..

Fast forward two more years to 2009, I've really only done minor stuff in my opinion to it, mostly functional stuff as I wanted 4wd, a manual transmission, and functionality for expeditions and play time.

As it now sits..read more below for the mods.


~Running Board Deletion
~4.56 4 pinion 4 fin rear 3rd
~BentUp Fabrication DOM sliders
~Old Style OME HD Coils
~Torsion Bars Turned up a little
~Limo Tint
~Originally a Ver-1 ECT Relocation Mod, then Ver-2, now a R150/4wd Conversion w/ functional Electronic Cruise Control.
~Flat-Blacked Out Factory Steelies
~31" BFG TA-K/O's
~Custom Bodywork thanks to the Sierras and Nevada Desert
~Dashy Dash Mat (To cover up the crack it now has )
~Customized Marlin Crawler Bumper Set, minus stinger and front receiver and a little modification.
~2009 C.A.R.B. Legal Thorley 505 Ceramics into a Dynomax SuperCat dmping into a Flowmaster, all 2.25" w/ stainless pipe.
~4Crawler 1" BodyLift
~VZN130 Spare Tire Carrier
~Amaurer Shift Knobs
~Baby Seat Tether Mod

I call it "Project Wimpy" as it is in no way as powerful as my other truck was, or might not ever be (*Hee-hee, there's always the S/C'd 3.4 swap route..shhh, she thinks I am just only tired of the 2wd and Automatic and doesn't realize my evil plan to prep for the 3.4 ) It is a family vehicle first and foremost, expedition and travel second. I sought the 2nd Gen 4Runner out because I have honestly always loved it's styling and appeal and wanted one since 1990. Yes, regardless of the whole 3.0 drama, besides, it was a special order, one of only 200 made, late July 1995, (hopefully past) the 3.0 H/G issues as it is in no way even having been a part of that, and well into the whole Tacoma Styled Phase-in and new 4cyl or 3.4 movement (Kaizen) Toyota was taking on stateside. *We've a place in Mexico, so I have had the opportunities to drive the diesel versions and have also driven the late 1999 2nd Gen 4Runner/Hilux that was still made in South America. I did't want a Land Cruiser, they are too big and cost prohibitive for our needs and I am happy with my decision, besides, I have a friend who's done the 3.4 swap with his 1995 2wd Auto and it screams! I plan on doing the headgaskets either way soon as I am seeing some coolant loss from the recovery tank and also some slight red crusting at the back of the block valley where the bypass tube passes through. It's the stainless tube, and it was done less than 13,000mi ago, so I can pretty much know what's gonna be the issue here.

It's not as "Pristine" as when I got it, but it's mine and I have made it to what I need it to be so far. For now I need to rest a little and recoup from starting on the 5 speed/4wd conversion stuff started this week, I'll load those pics up soon enough. Mmmm, sunburn and spatter blisters..

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

[NorCalBorn]

So this post will be the start of how I went about everything and the fun I've had in between project phases.

Like I said above, how I purchased it with all it's Grocery-Gettin Glory, yeah!


Wow, still has the 65,000 mile warranty factory Dayton Timberlines! Can you say "SCORE!" She stored this thing religiously.


Swapping out the factory coils for a set of (Maybe Downey(?) Recall Edition Coils.)
..FWIW these are the same spec as the FJ-C coils if anyone wants to do a 2-3" lift rather than using 80 series or Sequoia coils.






Birthday present from my father, and made by A-J at BentUp. Only took me about a week to start using them, even though at the time, still 2wd and unlocked.


It originally came w/ 2 pinion 3.90's for a 2wd on 28's so I finally got a 4-fin 4 pinion 4.56 in there.


Ahh, and for the test here, still 2wd and unlocked, nothing like hitting up Hollister Hills in the rain!


Also, a pic from meeting up with Corax and playing around in Ashland, Oregon last year.

[NorCalBorn]

[Insert tree limb here.. 45mph on a fire road, let's hear it for piss poor pre running/planning!]



*Minor Gore..I think I killed Jared Gordon's Chupacabra that was molesting his FJ-60 for him. Re: http://forum.ih8mud.com/trails-event...here-goes.html



Never buy cheap water pumps or pulleys!


Yep, as posted above, I finally finished the A340E (2wd) to R150 (4wd-IFS) conversion and have just finished up a (roughly) 1300 mile-ish trip ( ) in and around the Sierra Nevada mountains of California with some good times camping etc and excluding a minor issue, it all held up wonderfully. I have gone from 12-15mpg to easily 17-20mph. It's already paying back on the swap just in saved fuel expenses.

Knobs courtesy of Amaurer (Here on Mud).


*Do note that just after finishing up the transmission swap, just before this trip, the headgasket's did start showing some more leaking from the valley area, yes, the 3.0 can and does sometimes leak around the heads instead of into the cylinders. *I consider this very fortunate to have caught, as if I had not and done this trip i would be in a whole different world of financial hurt.

[NorCalBorn]

*Had to cut frame sections out of the donor parts vehicle to get the IFS differential horns in reusable shape, ignore the slight tweaks on them, this was the initial mockup and they were aligned and properly welded afterwards.

**The reason for this is the 1990-1995 2wd (120 coded) chassis do not have the horns there.

R/H Side


L/H Side. *Went as far as to find a non ADD left drive piece since I put on manual Aisin hubs. Makes it all really clean and factory, my overall goal.


Driveshafts are in, nothing like some obnoxiously smelling neon colored factory Toyota grease to start things off.


..anddddd...some bling to help the little engine that could breathe a lot better. 2009 Thorley 505 Ceramics, 2009 Dynomax SuperCat into a Flowmaster Single in-out, I forget which model though. 2.25" stainless used throughout, oxygen sensors placed at factory distances and muffler back (tailpipe) sectioned for custom bends not possible in a single piece. *Cleaned the bracket portion off of the EGR so I could gain some access back to the #5 plug and just make it all look a lot better.

[NorCalBorn]

Well, as mentioned this 4Runner's been built up in my own way for traveling around North and Central America, so I try to get in some periodic local trips to just get out of town, keep the wife and myself happy and mellow, and of course, find any issues and test out the upgrades. Basically, yeah, I could've started off with a factory 4wd vehicle, but good luck finding one in the shape mine was originally, besides, it's been fun to do all of this. Onto some more pics..

Local Day-Trip to the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and a little time spent flailing around Steamers Lane.
(I really do need to get out and get some more surf time in these days. I miss my Pearson longboard.)


Limo Tint=Cooler interior and passengers (We were already!), not to mention keeps the thieves and bears from peeking in so easily.

[NorCalBorn]

*Da(rn)ed Land Cruiser 60-Series owners, think their stuff's so cool! [insert jealousy and need to build up another 60 one day to replace my rolled one.]

Kevin

[NorCalBorn]

Here's how you trick the cruise control and ecu into letting you run things.

Remove the ECT switch by unplugging it from the connector. You don't need it anymore. Use it for wiring up a set of lights or something.

On the shift panel, remove the black electrical box, and the wiring that goes to the O-D on/off switch. Be sure to first turn off the O-D. Jumper the 2 white wires from the O-D switch. Your O-D indicator should now be flashing a constant code of 1-1-1...pull the dash and insert a new bulb (or like me remove the flashing O-D bulb and put it into the 4wd indicator spot. Put the black box somewhere safe, in my case I zip tied it to the console support just below the ashtray and used a piece of rubber mat to insulate it from vibration.

Run a wire from the #12 location that the bulb gets it's hot feed from and from a spot on the steel dash rail. Make them long enough, 6' each, easily, and loom them together as they're going to the green and white wires from the 4wd switch on the transmission. This is on (IIRC) the longer blue connector, C-11 (B) on the back of the instrument cluster. The diagram's here.

Now onto the transmission harness..

~Are you ever going back to an auto? If not, cut the harness from the wires. If you are keeping it, file down a couple spade connectors to fit into the harness. ON mine I made it all separate weatherpack connectors and got the correct connectors from the donor rig. The reason for this was to make it a lot more weather tight. This is hard to achieve with the almost palm width transmission plug. I have seen one person go ahead and just cut the other side of the harness from the auto transmission, then connect that to a similar spot on the manual trans, but in doing so you affect the resale of the auto. I think it would be better to just order up the plug from Toyota and do it that way, or get the plug assemblies from the door vehicle like I did.

Big Black wires, one with a yellow stripe and one with a red stripe, IIRC 12 gauge wires. These run from that point to the lower clutch pedal switch to show the vehicle's clutch is in and allows it to start.

The Smaller 14 gauge wires, red and white are to your backup lights. Again, a good weatherpack connector works great here. You pull the green (or sometimes black b/c of age) rubber grommets off and carefully insert a small eyeglass screwdriver into the connector from the connection side to get the pin to release. You pull the pins, rewire the connector, solder it all up and put them back together.

The other smaller wires you need to address are from the two you just ran in the dash, connect up your 4wd indicator to the switch.

If you have cruise control, theoretically it should now work, whether a vacuum type or electrical-mechanical because of saving the shift control box. The other reason for saving this box is because the ECU communicates with that box and this will prevent the run-rich issue that occurs because the ECU trips a code.

If you use cruise control and are used to stopping it, remember you used to use the brake. Do this as often as possible b/c if you simply lightly press on the clutch and do not take it to a full press, so the lower switch engages, you will allow the engine to continue revving up thinking it is still active. The cure for this is tapping the Cancel button on the cruise controls into the upper clutch pedal switch for the system.

Finish up by electric taping and heat shrinking the connections and splices. I also suggest doing this with the two solenoid connectors from the transmission, then putting them up out of harms way, preferably tied off to the loom they're out of.

I have yet to integrate a clutch-start cancel switch assembly. I have put on over 10,000 miles so far and no codes or major issues I can think of have occurred.

[NorCalBorn]

Highway's 9/35 Los Gatos Hills, Ca Outlook.


Meyers Beach, Oregon Coast.
*That little bit of mist/cloud on the water line is where a couple of F-22 Raptors were practicing strafing runs and coming in blowing out the water with sonic booms.
Try as I might, even at 1000 speed film I couldn't get them into the shots.


Shasta Lake, Ca.


Sunrise over Garrison Road, Fort Ord, Monterey, Ca


Sunset, Fremont, Ca.


Boulder Creek, Ca, little swim hole I spent time in when growing up.


Nothing like a red, burnt out Sunset during fire season. I'll take it, if for nothing more than the great color contrast.


Sunset the next evening, smoke's still bad, but hey, beautiful shot of a Crow flying around.

[NorCalBorn]

Shots from our camping/travel/fishing trip to the Sierra Nevada's and Lake Tahoe we just finished...man, over 1300 miles w/i a week, I need some rest from my vacations.



Oh well, off to get things started for the week, nothing like setting up camp and having some good food and a good campfire to warm your spirits, right?




Tahoe City (West/North Lake Tahoe) Sunset.

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Hehehe I know him! Kevin right?....

[NorCalBorn]

Yep..great guy, only says what needs to be said and a great demeanor. His H-55 trans swap's sweet also!

I should pm him, I haven't talked to him or Jared lately.

Wasn't the least bit fazed by my being a crybaby when I decided to try hitting up Jackrabbit (Hollister) backwards and got little tippy.

He just politely noted that I "had easily 2 feet of trail edge to go and why was I unlocked and 2wd again? "

I need to see about doing some sort of expedition group thing out here, most of the locals are of the "..Rubicon/Fordyce-go big or go home" following.

Marlin Stingerless and Receiverless Front, factory turn signals swapped left to right and inverted. Only has the inner light tabs, no outers..read below this pic for why.

*I still need to decide on whether or not to finish up the turn signal integration into the corner markers with the 80 series tailight sockets I have. I might just shop for a smaller set of 1157 bulbed signal lights and move them back into or behind the grille. I tried those motorcycle marker/turns and also a set of 83 Supra 194 bulbed markers, but didn't like the fact I needed a huge resistor for them to fix the fast flash problem. There is no aftermarket HD relay that will fit the factory location and I don't know which specific resistor to unsolder inside to make it work.

As for the bumper, it works great with my Milemarker winch and syn line. Next project is replacing the front IFS cover wanna-be skidplate and a set of D-ring/recovery points to augment the bumper brace holes. I want to replace the original thin gauge skid plate piece with a bolt on tubed setup for a stronger reinforced piece and usable angle of attack. In other words, just push on up things instead of having to change approaches and occasionally winch.

Yes, 33's would also solve that issue, but still leave the front lacking armor, but by then you're at easily 4.88's and even more underpowered.
Again back to expense and the 3.4-swap argument. A plan I might explore, someday.

Enough chatter..more pics..

Marlin Rear

[NorCalBorn]

The first step is always admitting you have a problem. Then you look at those around you and how they contribute to your problem..

Little brother's family has one, even better, wing windowed. Surf's up baby!

[NorCalBorn]

Another little bit of projects taken care of..

Baby Seat Tether Mod:

If unsure just print this out and take to your local dealership, PDF of Information and Instructions.

How to retrofit a baby seat tether anchor into a 2nd Gen 4Runner..

The current parts available.


Basic template of the mat that is under the carpet showing the two 2"x2" points you need to cut out of the carpet.
*You can also just feel for the holes after removing the tape cover and punch through the carpet, saving time like I did.


Remove the rear sill plate trim by popping the plastic covers off. Do this at the 9 or 3 o-clock points, looking forward into the cargo area. Use a #0 or smaller standard tip.


After removing the 5 covers, 5 phillips screws will be revealed, remove them using a #1 phillips screwdriver.


Rear sill plate pops up from the outer edges. Check your plastic carpet keeper piece and replace the factory staples if necessary with high gauge staples.
(Like you would use for stapling large packs of paper.)


Front portion of the carpet pulled back will reveal the anchor point.


Peel back the sticker to gain access to the anchor nut. Use anti-seize on your bolt and tether anchor.
*Preferably, use silicone or FIPG around the base of the bolt-washer to prevent any moisture from getting through.


Use a screwdriver to prevent the strap plate from spinning around needlessly while tightening with the wrench.
*Placing some painter's tape over the tip will prevent it from tearing or poking through the carpet.


Finished up.



Be sure to follow the torque spec listed on the part sheet.

Reinstall the rear sill plate trim piece using the reverse order listed above.

Take your kid(s) for a ride!

**Note: This is a writeup meant to have this information out there for owners, as most dealers forget about the older vehicles and their little tricks.

**Liability wise this should be done at a delaership. Be warned, have anything you do in this manner inspected by Highway Patrol to be sure it's safe and correct.
**Besides, this way any other things you might need, like the seat belt ratchet retrofit piece can be picked up at the same time you'll also be learning how best to set everything up.

[NorCalBorn]

89-95 4Runner/Truck Bucket Seat Driver's Seat Repair/Swap Lowers!

*There's two ways to do this, like I did, using a spare passenger side lower from a wreckers and making both like new, or just cheating and swapping what's in your vehicle.

I like having them all in good shape, a little more expensive, but worth the effort IMHO. I end up with a spare lower to fix later on if I choose to do so.

Want a cheaper and easier way to fix your torn driver's seat in your 4Runner/Truck w/ bucket seats?
Well, find a good passenger seat and just swap the lowers over!
A passenger seat sees far less wear, and what will be the outer left side has been protected by the center console for years!

The problem, wear and tear has destroyed the side of the driver's seat.


Donor Passenger Seat that will give it's lower to replace my driver's side one.
Save all the hardware you can get, you'll see why later on.
(Note I am not including this disassembly as it's the same as the driver's side.)


Push the driver's seat back, and remove the two 14mm bolts holding the rails down.

Then move the seat all the way forward to expose the rear bolts, which will be covered by trim pieces.


Use a small standard tip screwdriver, like this, and carefully
pry up to remove the covers so you can get to the last two bolts.


*Note: For some reason, every time I've done a Toyota w/ bucket seats,
both sets of inside bolts, closest to the center console, even sometimes the
inside rear, is always cross threaded, why in the note above I suggest saving
any hardware from the donor seat.

Carefully remove the seat from your vehicle, being careful to not snag on
anything or scratch the paint.
(*Lesson I learned the hard way when putting mine back in. )
Clean up the carpet from all your spare change,
stray pens and french fries, random pet hairs and dust bunnies.

Also, go ahead and chase and lube the bolt (body mount point) holes so you
can take care of any factory cross thread issues.



Begin prep on your seat needing repair. Remove the recline and trim cap
pieces with a small phillips screwdriver. Push the outside trim piece forward
past the recling latch and it'll pop clean off. For the inner one, you need to both
push forward, and carefully locate the retention tabs on the piece, pry them off
while pushing forward and it'll pop free also.


There are now 4 12mm bolts holding the seat lower in place, remove them all.

*Note from this point forward, you must exercise extreme caution to not hit the
seat release lever or the center wire that strings the catches together.
If you hit them while your hand or fingers are in the area, it won't be a pretty
result. Basically, be careful, wear leather gloves, and take your time!

Locations of front bolts.


Locations of rear bolts.


All done with that step.


Pull upwards and forward (from the seat back) to remove the lower.



Now is a great time to inspect and clean/lube your seat rails..

Again, keeping in mind the note about not touching the release lever or center
wire so you keep your hand and fingers safe.

I used White Lightening Clean Streak, some bearing lube, and some Tri-Flow,
good stuff, doesn't harm any finishes, and available at most local bicycle shops.


Go ahead and also clean and prep your replacement lower.
I went ahead and used Spot Shot (made by the folks at WD-40) as it also
doesn't harm any finishes, works great, and is also available in a trigger bottle.
(Just used the spray style since it was left over from a recent carpet cleaning project.)


Reinstall the lower, using reverse order of the steps above, taking care to not
overtighten the 4 bolts for the lower assembly and the 3 phillips screws for the
trim pieces.

Put the seat back in your vehicle, (Don't scratch the paint!) and torque down the
four bolts there. Reinstall the rear trim covers, put your seat in the right place,
and check everything for proper working order before you go for a drive.

Sit back and admire your work. BTW..
**No that isn't blood on my wrench, or my tools you are always seeing,
it's crimson paint that reminds me to be careful and safe.
Silly, probably, but it does work as a great reminder.

[NorCalBorn]

Completed the install of the driver's grab bar. Just feel in the same area as the passenger side for the dimples just below the headliner (there is already the cutout there, it's just covered with fabric.


Now matches the passenger side.

[toy4xfun]

hey i have the same paint as yours used to have. mine is a 95 4x4 i will get some pics tomorrow.

[hardontoyotas]

why not straight axle it? less work than installing IFS

[NorCalBorn]

Originally Posted by hardontoyotas

why not straight axle it? less work than installing IFS

You'd be surprised at what you can do with a well setup IFS. It isn't a rock crawler and it still is driven at least 3-4 days out of the week, freeway and city, so handling and functionality, as well as ease of parts availability was a primary concern.

Someday, when I am ready to decide on doing the 3.4 swap I might look back into the idea. I have even thought of doing a Land Cruiser style link setup, but as it stands, I have already invested so much into this thing, I am laying off for a while now and just enjoying it for what it is and what it's for.

Besides, this is pretty fun right now as it is..even more so offroad..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJESSkGRzR4

[toy4xfun]

a project rig is never done until you sell it or die.

[hardontoyotas]

its a real nice rig. you did a great job of changing it over.

[NorCalBorn]

Originally Posted by toy4xfun

a project rig is never done until you sell it or die.

Too true.

Originally Posted by hardontoyotas

its a real nice rig. you did a great job of changing it over.

Thanks, I hear it a lot from people, including the "WOW, Clean Rig!" and each time I feel I've made good choices with this project so far.

[toy4xfun]

keep on keeping on.

[NorCalBorn]

Good Sunset!

[NorCalBorn]

In honor of this being post #411 for me, and usually I am trying to share knowledge, I figure I'd share this with you today!

Last night I finished up the trimwork needed to the front apron now that I have an aftermarket bumper. (Areas just below the headlights and to the outside, containing the bumper wing support, etc.) You cut just shy of the front body mount, up, and over, eliminating an unnecessary bit of sheetmetal. In that process, with the turn signals right in front of me, I began to get really tired of the whole visual theme going on, here's why..

I never felt the love for the setup the Marlin Crawler bumpers use for their turn signal relocations, more so if you own a 2nd-Gen, as in order to use their tabs to mount the turn signals you need to source them from 1st-Gens 4Runners, what a hassle, if I was gonna goto that trouble, why not do it better, right! I did temporarily integrate my factory signals, after shaving off a tab from each side so the lights would fit if swapped right-left and turned upside down, but kept thinking there had to be something better.

I tried led's, but hated that no matter what I tried with modifying* donor factory relays, I could never get the blinker fast-flash to stop without using 50w 10ohm resistors, and all the aftermarket stuff, well, honestly sucked worse.

*(Toyota has their wiring as positive grounded, so aftermarket relays are also out unless you were to build an entirely new add-on harness like 4Crawler does.)

I went around a local import yard specifically with the desire to use Toyota factory stuff, and came to like the Corolla signals, specifically since I've owned an AE86 and also the same year Celica, so the search was on.

Imagine my surprise when I found a set of factory 1156 bulb setups that were clear and could blend in with the theme of the 4Runner! Bonus is they're the same UL supply parts from Geo Prizm's, so availability isn't an issue for anyone else doing this!

I used some bicycle-bag rack arms, the type with a hole every centimeter or so, drilled out the holes to fit the factory bolt spots, and yes, used factory bolt locations to boot.

Better than that, I hate shortcuts, and since I occasionally am talked into accepting money to do factory style harnesses for friends, used some spare factory wiring and the existing harness to do everything as it would appear from the factory, right down to the weatherpack connectors.

OK, enough tech talk, enjoy the pic! I'm gonna go out for a drive.

Before


After!


~I'll get another good "cover shot" of it soon enough to show the visual better.

[Bomar]

Have you left the spare in factory location?

Do you like the Marlin rear bumper? I am thinking of getting one but I want to fab up a swing out on it.

Go looking truck I can't wait to pick up my 94 1KZ Friday!

[NorCalBorn]

Originally Posted by Bomar

Have you left the spare in factory location?

Yes, for now, as shown above in POST #5 I did have to tweak things a little because this was originally a 2wd, 3.90, automatic, the spare tire assembly system is the type meant to only hold up to a 28" tire. I am in the process of getting one of the systems meant to use up to a 33" tire and a remotely placed winch knuckle to retrofit. I'll post that info up when I finish getting everything ready.

Do you like the Marlin rear bumper? I am thinking of getting one but I want to fab up a swing out on it.

I love it, and am actually still debating doing the same thing, my concern being I have heard it can tweak the tubing if not done perfectly. My plan is to integrate a spindle assembly to the upright brace plate and dog-leg the lower arm so it'll look nice. This way I can possibly fit 2 spares since with some places we will be going again the repair places are few and far between. I've yet to see someone do quite what I have in mind and have posted it. If anyone has a link to someone doig this with a Marlin Bumper, link it in so I can see how they accomplished it all.

Go looking truck I can't wait to pick up my 94 1KZ Friday!

Funny you mention the 1KZ..do I somehow know who this is and you're the guy I am now searching for a timing cover for the 1KZ-TE? If so, you're a lucky bastard, well, either way, what I saw at a friend's shop this past week is really a sweet setup, complete plug and play..

[Bomar]

No I bought this truck.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...te-diesel.html

[DanS HJ-45]

Originally Posted by Bomar

No I bought this truck.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...te-diesel.html

Very cool. Like I said in that thread, I think you got a screaming deal.

Norcal: I like the relocated turn signals. Much cleaner looking.

Dan

[NorCalBorn]

Just finished tweaking the tailpipe into a little better fitment so I could fit the VZN-130 chassis undercar spare-tire assembly with the off-set winch point so I can clear the exhaust and fit up to 33's in there if I like. So nice to now have the spare out of the back so there's room for pets, groceries, etc. I can still fit another spare in for extended trips while clearing the 5th tether for the baby seat..ahhh the joys of modifying. *In case I forgot to post it, I finished up the 4Crawler 1" body lift kit, went in w/o any issues, all with hand tools and in only 3 hours. Not too shabby for never having done one. Right header collector clears the floorboards and fuel/brake lines much better now, and I like the slightly better visibility it gives.

Header clears now. I'm not gonna post the lift kit stuff, we all have seen them everywhere online.


~VZN 130 Chassis Spare Tire Setup: (Lower half of the left side scroll down page.)
*Compare with what is usually factory for the 4Runners ordered w/o the factory 33" tire option at the top of the page.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_199....html?hl=51916

Amazing what can be accomplished with a set of heavy-duty ratchet straps, a bottle jack, a piece of pressure treated lumber and some serious leg pushing.
Moved it all a little at a time, and, *Yes, that p.o.s. hose clamp is only temporary until I can go ahead and recut the last couple of feet and redo the way the pipe exits.


Shot of where the winch socket is now..for those that have this setup, consider yourself lucky, people snatch them up quickly around here.
*Had I not already installed the 1" body lift, the access to the top bolts of the center winch itself would have been a lot worse, even with a slimline wrench.


Front departure angle now..


Rear departure angle now..