64 RE-build.... (1 Viewer)

[35snmud]

Well...when I bought the 64 from Miker a couple years ago it looked like this...

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/64cruiser1.jpg

Then came an eventful lack of paying attention in January of this year. Hit a patch of ice doing 55 and OH S*** double roll, then it looked like this...

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0109.jpg

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0110.jpg

I'm thinking not too bad for rolling twice Now comes time to haggle with the insurance. I had full coverage on it, and the lord was smiling on me. Both the appraiser and the adjuster were 4x4 folks. They had jeeps, but they were still pretty good guys Long story short I got 9K out of the insurance to rebuild it and not totaled. It took some convincing regarding the value but it paid off.

Off it went to the local body shop for a visit to the frame rack. The frame was actually straight. The cowl and tub...not so straight. They did an awesome job stretching everything back into shape though. And as an added bonus they let me come in and work with them getting it put back together. Pretty cool.

So now to find some parts. The windshield frame was pretty much toast. As you know they are not a stock item. I start searching and what do you know. Timmbuc2 has this one for sale in CO.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/white651.jpg

Game on. Windshield frame and a hard top!!! Ended up picking it up for $700.00 minus a few things I didn't need. Another $600.00 and it was shipped to Reno where I met the driver and loaded it up for the ride home.

I stripped everything I needed off donor rig (mainly windshield frame and hard top) and took it to a bead blaster so I could see what had to be repaired. It was actually in pretty good shape. There were a few places that had to be cut out and patched, but over all not too bad. I worked on this at home while they straightened the tub and cowl at the shop.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0149_1.jpg

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0162_1.jpg

Above is a couple patches on the windshield frame and door bottom. I also had messed up the windshield bolts/threads when removing the hinges, so I cut out the metal inserts, made new ones and welded everything back up (see below) I had to do this on both sides, mainly due to my impatience.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0159.jpg

One of the door limiter attachments was missing, so I patched the hole and made a new one.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0151.jpg

I'm upgrading to the over head 70 version windshield wipers, si I drilled the holes and added stainless nutserts to mount them up. Only problem...I did the layout on the bench, with the frame upside down. So take a guess...yep, the motor is on the drivers side instead of on the passenger side I'm not sure if the wipers will park in the right place or not. I may have to flip them to the way they are supposed to be and install new nutserts. I guess I will find out when I get to that point.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0156.jpg

Have to call it a day....I'll continue this later

 

[35snmud]

some more

So, while work was happening at the body shop, I took the parts and pieces there to start fitting the hard top.

I have always wanted one of these old school tops. It took quite a bit of work to get it back in shape. But it will be sweet.

Stripped down the fiberglass cap for an over haul.

The spacer strip between the fiberglass and the top of the windshield frame didn't appear to be correct. So we made a wooden filler piece by laminating 1" lathe and sanding to shape. Then this was glassed into the fiberglass top.

 

[My wife said no FJ!]

Are you going to change the rain gutters on the top? You will need an extension piece for the side gutters as the top is longer than what they sell off the rack.

 

[35snmud]

Are you going to change the rain gutters on the top? You will need an extension piece for the side gutters as the top is longer than what they sell off the rack.

I will put up some more pics. I actually just cut out a few sections that were rotted, made new ones and welded them back up.

 

[35snmud]

furthermore

The drip rail was in need of some repairs. Since 75% of it was in decent shape, I decided to just cut and weld in some new sections instead of shelling out the coin for a new one.

After cutting it apart I reassembled it back on the rig so I could get the correct dimensions.

With the drip rail all fit back together, I also repaired the threaded inserts that were damaged. I drilled them out and installed stainless 6mm nutserts. After considering this, I should have just replaced them all.

The area yoiu see above, is where someone had used fiberglass to repair the floor board. Removed all of the fiberglass, cut out the bad section and welded in a patch panel.

While I was in there, I stripped the interior to prep for rhino lining. Made another weld repair in the drivers side wheel well There was a bit if rust working it's way through. Cut it out and welded in another patch panel.

Made a little angle piece to go across the back. The idea is to make a better place for the door seal to ride.

Doing a little mock up to figure out how I will route the new fuel system. Going all -6 an fittings and hoses. upgrading the filters in the system and where they are mounted. This is in prep for an LT4 install this winter.

Finally got some paint shot on the exterior.

Finally got it back home. I still have a bunch of work to do. New roll cage/seat brackets. Install all new glass. Get the windshield wiper upgrade working. fuel system installed.

 

[35snmud]

last one for now

Here is how it sits, at least for another month til I get some time to work on it.

 

[mruff]

Looking good

 

[35snmud]

Thanks mruff....

Finally got the fuel system complete. Made a bracket to hold the main fuel filter.


http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0312.jpg

Ran the -an lines all the way from the tank. Thanks to someone here on mud (I can't remember who posted it) showing the correct fitting that adapts the tank outlet to -6 an. I learned something while doing this fuel system upgrade. There seems to be a check valve inside the tank. I put 10 gallons of gas in and tried to get the rig started. After cranking over several attempts. Nothing......cracked the line open at the fuel pump...nothing, dry as a bone. Took the fitting loose at the side of the tank, you guessed it, nothing. I now know if I ever run it dry, I will have to prime it by pouring fuel in the carb. Once I did this it created enough vacuum to get the system filled. Runs like a champ now.

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/64 rebuild/IMAG0310.jpg

You can't see it in the pic above, but I used a bulkhead fitting to route the lines through the tub. No more fuel line rubbing on the tub

Made a little progress on the roll cage. Set up the bender to give it a go..

Can anyone tell me whats wrong with the A pillar in the pic above?

Got the B pillar and rear hoop tacked in place..

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/cageleft.jpg

The A pillars are bent and tacked in place as well. It took a little doing but I was able to squeeze them in between the windshield latches and the doors. I had to move the A pillar out a little further from the dash than I was going to, but I really wanted to use those latches. I don't think I will be able to use those bug catcher wing windows though. The linkage that operates the window is going to be right behind the A pillar I guess you can't have it all. They may still work, we'll see when it all get put back together??

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/apillarleft-1.jpg

http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx209/ddmk6/apillarright.jpg

Working on figuring out the seat frame now. Hopefully have that done tomorrow. It will be nice to get some seats back in so I can at least putt around the yard. I have all new glass to install as well.

Thanks for looking..

 

[cult45]

If you were meh about rollcages before you'd be fan by now! Damn lucky..

Build looks good.

 

[miker]

Hey Kenny, just ran across your re-build thread. cool.

I'm damn glad that roll cage held together and you were ok, besides the bumps and bruises.

You rebuild is looking good! Looking forward to spending some time on the trail again with you and Judy.

 

[35snmud]

Closer

Inching closer to actually getting some seats installed. Got the frame work pretty much figured out.





I got a little creative on the passenger side door bar. I know it's not as strong as going on an angle down from the edge of the tank, but it sure makes it easier getting in and out. I couldn't bend it that short with a 7" radius die so used the cut and weld trick. I think it will look OK once it's all rhino lined. Hope so...I don't want to have to redo it.



Time to put it away and go back to work for a bit. More to come...

 

[35snmud]

If you were meh about rollcages before you'd be fan by now! Damn lucky..

Build looks good.

Thanks, I am definitely a fan of a stout roll cage Hopefully that was the first and last time I will ever need one.

 

[roma042987]

Nice job with the patch panels and windshield frame repair labor some work that is. By the looks of that cage you should be well prepared in case of another mishap.

 

[35snmud]

Nice job with the patch panels and windshield frame repair labor some work that is. By the looks of that cage you should be well prepared in case of another mishap.

Thanks. Your right, that was a bit of work. It's worth it knowing the cancer is gone. I still have a bunch of small detail work to do, but most of the progress has been forward . Should be able to finish the cage pretty quick when I can get back to work on it. Few more braces to put in and finish the seat mounts, good to go.

 

[35snmud]

Hey Kenny, just ran across your re-build thread. cool.

I'm damn glad that roll cage held together and you were ok, besides the bumps and bruises.

You rebuild is looking good! Looking forward to spending some time on the trail again with you and Judy.

You did a damn fine job on the other cage Mike. I managed to wrinkle it up a little but it held tough. It hit hard too. I'm a firm believer in roll bar padding now...

Sure wish I had a new tig machine like yours, I could really make this new cage look purty Maybe I need to go shopping. Or maybe I'll just use wire and get it done. Deer season is fast approaching.

 

[SteveH]

You have put in a ton of hard work - looks great.

 

[35snmud]

You have put in a ton of hard work - looks great.

Thanks Steve H. All that work is about to be rewarded. Hoping to have it roadworthy within a few days. The toughest part for me is figuring out how to rewire the new (to me) wipers, I always stumble when it comes to the electrical part. I know there's lots of folks around here that will help me out if I get in a jam.

 

[miker]

Hey Kenny, I looked but can't find the info on what year/make the bucket seats were from.
Posting a couple of pics. Maybe someone here recognizes these seats and knows what kind of car they are from. I think they are pre-95.

Anyone know what these seats are from??

 

[GaFJ40Jeff]

Good looking cage you got going on there. Just got me a new JD2 bender and ready to put it to work. What size tube are you using? Is it regular steel or DOM?

Jeff



Got a 2" die… these dies are MAD expensive.

 

[35snmud]

Good looking cage you got going on there. Just got me a new JD2 bender and ready to put it to work. What size tube are you using? Is it regular steel or DOM?

Jeff


Got a 2" die… these dies are MAD expensive.

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the compliment. It's turning out pretty good for my first attempt at building a roll cage. I built the bender as well. I know what you mean about the die$$ I bought a 1 3/4 240* die and a 1 1/8" 240* die. Quite the investment. I'm pretty sure I'm going to be ordering a 1 1/2" 240* die here pretty soon.

The main parts of the cage are 1 3/4" DOM, A pillars. B pillar and rear hoop. Seat frame and door bars are 1 3/4" and 1 1/2" HREW.

Enjoy your new bender.....