YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (3 Viewers)

[TheForger]

Love the glow in the dark material idea. I’d definitely get a new backplate if you made logos on them (TOYOTA, sombrero, IH8MUD, etc..) Of course then there might be copyright issues you’ll have to work around but I’m not sure. Also looking forward to the 200 series key, I’ll make my purchase on one of those as soon as you list them. I want to give it to my father as a gift since he just picked up a nice ‘14 200 series.

 

[CrusrDug]

Ordered mine, sweet design! 2 broken keys, so doing this for 1 and a crappy $7 shell for the backup.

 

[desert80]

So I just received my black and stone grey covers to finish off my key issues with our 2007 GX470. It only came with one key and it appeared as if it was a cheap aftermarket one at that.

I ordered two keys with remotes from 1010keys on eBay. There are instructional videos on YouTube for programming them and I did not need any software. The keys were surprisingly nice and look like decent quality. Even had the gold Lexus emblem on it.

Then came time to break them out of their soft plastic shells. The one 1010 key I broke apart was the “I”shaped key and went into the grey cover without issue. Fits great and looks killer.

The rather cheap key that came with the vehicle was not so lucky. It was the dreaded “U” shape. The shank itself would not even fit. I was able to squeeze it in and line up the exterior screws but the shank was cocked at an angle and really loose. I pulled it all apart and after messing with it for a few minutes, I noticed there was actually quite a bit of slag from the molding process left on the shank of the cheap key that was an issue. Also it was thicker at the base causing the tilting and misalignment. I broke out my files and removed all the slag and thinned out the base so it would fit properly. After tightening all the screws down there was still a small amount of play in the shank and of course the empty hole in the back cover because of the “U” shape. I continued working with it and decided to file the inside of the “U” so it was large enough to accept the extra nut that was so thoughtfully provided. After some testing and flipping the shank so the “U” is in contact with the larger titanium brace (The U is offset to one face of the shank) it all came together perfectly. The shank is seated VERY tight and in alignment and there is a tightened screw in every hole. Hopefully if there’s other people with “U” keys that will help.

I am VERY happy so far with keys and gaining two fully functioning keys for around $200 total is fantastic! Well worth the money and effort! I do like the grey one as that key has just a plan red button.

Thank you for making a great product!

 

[hundyHAM]

@desert80 Great idea. I have the same U on the doner LC100 let and was considering the ways to keep it from sliding. However, I've been less than successful in the programming department. I got the locks to work but the starting part is a no-go.

 

[Slashzero]

These key fobs look awesome. My keys are pretty beat up. Ordered one in lime green, thinking that color would be easier to find when the key is dropped. Also, it looks like a Creeper from
Minecraft.

In any case, I wish I had owned my LC100 back when you had the intro discount promotion going on.

 

[Ambledog]

When I got my cruiser, I read about this and thought wow that is a lot of dough for a key case, and my keys were working just fine from the PO. One with remote buttons and one without. Well, then the shell cracked a bit on the remote key and I debated for the last 6 weeks - buy plastic replacement, or go all out on the Yota. The crack got worse, I was pinching the two halves together so I could start the truck. Decided to put that one aside and have been using the non-remote key. The darn spring or whatever is in the key column is so strong, I just cannot see a cheap eBay key lasting all that long, and I can see what a huge issue it would be if it were to break out of town, or offload, if you don't have an intact key - how could you even start it when it breaks?

So I just ordered the beast key from YotaMD. In grey. Decision DONE and looking forward to an excellent product.

 

[suprarx7nut]

So I just received my black and stone grey covers to finish off my key issues with our 2007 GX470. It only came with one key and it appeared as if it was a cheap aftermarket one at that.

I ordered two keys with remotes from 1010keys on eBay. There are instructional videos on YouTube for programming them and I did not need any software. The keys were surprisingly nice and look like decent quality. Even had the gold Lexus emblem on it.

Then came time to break them out of their soft plastic shells. The one 1010 key I broke apart was the “I”shaped key and went into the grey cover without issue. Fits great and looks killer.

The rather cheap key that came with the vehicle was not so lucky. It was the dreaded “U” shape. The shank itself would not even fit. I was able to squeeze it in and line up the exterior screws but the shank was cocked at an angle and really loose. I pulled it all apart and after messing with it for a few minutes, I noticed there was actually quite a bit of slag from the molding process left on the shank of the cheap key that was an issue. Also it was thicker at the base causing the tilting and misalignment. I broke out my files and removed all the slag and thinned out the base so it would fit properly. After tightening all the screws down there was still a small amount of play in the shank and of course the empty hole in the back cover because of the “U” shape. I continued working with it and decided to file the inside of the “U” so it was large enough to accept the extra nut that was so thoughtfully provided. After some testing and flipping the shank so the “U” is in contact with the larger titanium brace (The U is offset to one face of the shank) it all came together perfectly. The shank is seated VERY tight and in alignment and there is a tightened screw in every hole. Hopefully if there’s other people with “U” keys that will help.

I am VERY happy so far with keys and gaining two fully functioning keys for around $200 total is fantastic! Well worth the money and effort! I do like the grey one as that key has just a plan red button.

Thank you for making a great product!

View attachment 1680127

View attachment 1680134

Nice work! Those U keys are really annoying and you've probably done the best thing you can with those. I tried a few ideas, but was unable to come up with anything worthwhile without modifying the key since the screw lines up right on the border of the metal.

Anyways, glad you sorted it out and thanks for the helpful photo showing your work.

These key fobs look awesome. My keys are pretty beat up. Ordered one in lime green, thinking that color would be easier to find when the key is dropped. Also, it looks like a Creeper from
Minecraft.

In any case, I wish I had owned my LC100 back when you had the intro discount promotion going on.

I've got everything in stock so I expect yours to go out late this week (as soon as I can squeeze in a post office run during business hours).

When I got my cruiser, I read about this and thought wow that is a lot of dough for a key case, and my keys were working just fine from the PO. One with remote buttons and one without. Well, then the shell cracked a bit on the remote key and I debated for the last 6 weeks - buy plastic replacement, or go all out on the Yota. The crack got worse, I was pinching the two halves together so I could start the truck. Decided to put that one aside and have been using the non-remote key. The darn spring or whatever is in the key column is so strong, I just cannot see a cheap eBay key lasting all that long, and I can see what a huge issue it would be if it were to break out of town, or offload, if you don't have an intact key - how could you even start it when it breaks?

So I just ordered the beast key from YotaMD. In grey. Decision DONE and looking forward to an excellent product.

It is an investment, for sure. I think you'll find it more than worthy of the price tag. There have been a handful - or even a dozen at this point - of folks how have said the same thing: "I thought it was a lot of money for a key shell, but then I received it, assembled it and cranked the car. Now I get it. Totally worth it!"

I make sure quality is top notch on these. The titanium parts are reamed for precision on the dowel pin holes. Those holes are only utilized in the "I" style key (10% of the users), but I still ream every one that goes out the door so the dowel pins are a perfectly tight slip fit. The screw clearance holes are all currently tight clearance. So tight, the waterjet can't reliably cut the dimension I want. I have them undersized and drill/ream them to spec. I received a batch of Titanium parts with tapered edges - while they were still functional, every part was sent to the reject bin or worked to bring the edge square so it assembles perfectly with no edges jutting out. I bought a small sander for that process alone, actually. One sheet of Titanium came in with slightly wavy edges - the machinist skipped a cutting brick and sped up the cut speed. I worked every edge prior to shipment or sent them to the scrap bin for recycling. I say this not to pat myself on the back or anything, but to explain that part of the cost is ensuring you get an excellent product from a design, engineering, fabrication and quality control perspective.

There are plenty of corners to potentially cut and still have a functional product - I cut *none*. I also enjoy much of the manufacturing process so I don't mind having to buy a new tool or spend some time machining in the garage if it means a better product. I hope that shows through when folks open up that package, assemble it and put it to use.

 

[Slashzero]

I've got everything in stock so I expect yours to go out late this week (as soon as I can squeeze in a post office run during business hours).

Thank you, @suprarx7nut!

 

[VinylSeats]

After a stupid amount of time delaying, I finally pulled the trigger this morning. My boring, predictable side won out and I went with the Stone Grey over the Orange that seriously tempted me. I swear, I'll have the courage to make a simple, inconsequential, "wild" decision... some day.

Thanks for supporting the community with this great mod, @suprarx7nut.

 

[ibrahim83]

Just got my key in today. I snapped my old key off and put it in it's new home.

Thank you @suprarx7nut !

 

[jdlobb]

View attachment 1685332 Just got my key in today. I snapped my old one and put it in it's new home.

Thank you!

Ok. Now that I’ve seen it in tan I’ve gotta get one. Is it payday yet?

 

[ibrahim83]

Ok. Now that I’ve seen it in tan I’ve gotta get one. Is it payday yet?

I love it. I didn't like them before, but once my friend got some, it sold me on the idea. i wish wish it was sanded down and smoothed out a little more, otherwise, it's a great option to have. Expensive, but it is what it is, and @suprarx7nut has been great throughout the process. No regrets here!

 

[Noob Nate]

Mine came in today. Went with the clear coated gray. Really sharp and great construction. Thanks for making a great product!

 

[jdlobb]

I love it. I didn't like them before, but once my friend got some, it sold me on the idea. i wish wish it was sanded down and smoothed out a little more, otherwise, it's a great option to have. Expensive, but it is what it is, and @suprarx7nut has been great throughout the process. No regrets here!

Yep. The tan put me over the edge. I’m ordering on friday. @suprarx7nut go a head and warm up the printer

Edit: I don’t see the desert tan listed on the website. Do I need to send you a PM with my order number or can I put in a comment field when i place it?

 

[suprarx7nut]

I love it. I didn't like them before, but once my friend got some, it sold me on the idea. i wish wish it was sanded down and smoothed out a little more, otherwise, it's a great option to have. Expensive, but it is what it is, and @suprarx7nut has been great throughout the process. No regrets here!

Not that this helps anything now, but I have a "Premium" option that is yet to be posted for sale that has no discernible texture or step lines, but it'll carry a ~$20 price adder and only available in black. I haven't released it because I need to test long term durability. I don't want to charge a premium for something that'll look "meh" after a few months. I might get that posted up in the next few months, but it's been a low priority.

Yep. The tan put me over the edge. I’m ordering on friday. @suprarx7nut go a head and warm up the printer

Edit: I don’t see the desert tan listed on the website. Do I need to send you a PM with my order number or can I put in a comment field when i place it?

Nice! The tan is a one-off paint job, so it'll need a special invoice. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send an invoice over to you. You can pay at your convenience. I've already got the white, paintable parts on hand and ready for some tan paint so you won't face any extended lead times!

 

[ibrahim83]

I love it. I didn't like them before, but once my friend got some, it sold me on the idea. i wish wish it was sanded down and smoothed out a little more, otherwise, it's a great option to have. Expensive, but it is what it is, and @suprarx7nut has been great throughout the process. No regrets here!

Not that this helps anything now, but I have a "Premium" option that is yet to be posted for sale that has no discernible texture or step lines, but it'll carry a ~$20 price adder and only available in black. I haven't released it because I need to test long term durability. I don't want to charge a premium for something that'll look "meh" after a few months. I might get that posted up in the next few months, but it's been a low priority.



Nice! The tan is a one-off paint job, so it'll need a special invoice. Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send an invoice over to you. You can pay at your convenience. I've already got the white, paintable parts on hand and ready for some tan paint so you won't face any extended lead times!

Thanks for the heads up. I'm already planning to sand it down if it ever peels or chips. And as long as i can buy the clamshell part, I'm A ok.

 

[suprarx7nut]

UPDATE on Grey parts: I have now split the greys into two separate parts - Stone Grey (or perhaps $tone Grey) and Battleship Grey.

Stone grey parts cost more than any other color. These are printed on a very cool HP printer that very few shops have, unfortunately. My sourcing options are very limited and there's only one in the US right now that produces good parts. They bumped their prices up a while back (perhaps knowing they were/are the only ones doing it well) and I scoured for an alternative. Unfortunately, there is none that I can find for now so I finally need to increase my price accordingly. The Stone Grey parts cost about $7 more than typical, so I am charging $7 more.

Also note the Stone Grey parts have a significant variation in the shade of the color. They are like a stone (hence my name for the color). If you want a uniform grey that will have a consistent shade, go for the Battleship Grey. If you like the granite/stone look, go for the Stone Grey.

Clear coating makes the Stone Grey significantly darker. The Battleship Grey changes very little in shade with or without the clear.

Separate note:
Clear coats are all now very matte and have been for a while. When I started this whole deal my "matte" clear was still somewhat glossy and few customers liked the glossiness. I've got a new matte clear that's very matte. It seems to adhere better and keeps the parts matte all while enhancing color. It's a win-win.

Picture time. Attached you'll see a Stone Grey (exact shades vary, remember), a Battleship Grey and a picture with 3 sets of Stone Grey on the left and Battleship Grey on the right. The 3 and 3 picture shows only "Basic" parts (aka, no clear coat).

 

[Slashzero]

Received mine and boy are these things great!

 

[VinylSeats]

Got my orange one today. Looks and feels great!

In case anyone runs into a similar situation, my existing key shell was a fairly new Denso unit. The plastic that housed the T end of the key was so strong, I had to use my Dremel tool to grind away the plastic to free the key. Once done, the install into the YotaMD fob shell was quick and easy.

 

[Slashzero]

I had to use my Dremel tool to grind away the plastic to free the key.

Me too!