York front seal needed (1 Viewer)

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60wag

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Jun 25, 2003
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Location
Boulder, CO
My York compressor puts out plenty of air, unfortunately its also putting a lot of oil out the front shaft seal. Where can I find a replacement seal? Would NAPA have it or do I need to go through a bearing distributor? The clutch could use a new bearing too. Anyone have the bearing number and seal number handy? TIA
 
Howdy! Just go to your friendly neighborhood auto A/C shop. These are very common compressors. They should have just what you need. John
 
For future ref:

My compressor is a York (now CCI) 210
The front seal kit is available from NAPA 207243 for 11.44$
The clutch bearing is NAPA 6206-2RSJ for 24.88

the service manual is found at : Welcome to Tcci Manufacturing LLC
 
interesting, the front seal kit would cut down on the oil output? Hmmm......
 
The seal doesn't affect the oil going into the discharge line, it just stops the leak at the main shaft.
 
interesting, the front seal kit would cut down on the oil output? Hmmm......
Howdy! York compressor has the crank in an oil bath, like a motorcycle engine, but backwards, because the crank drives the compression, instead of vicy vercy! John
 
Howdy! York compressor has the crank in an oil bath, like a motorcycle engine, but backwards, because the crank drives the compression, instead of vicy vercy! John

Yes, yes, I'm aware of that..I am running one :D I was more curious as to the reason mine is leaking so much oil can be slowed down by swapping out the old seal, that's all. But it appears as though this seal won't help the oil leak in the outlet of the air port. Oh well....

Thanks.
 
Yes, yes, I'm aware of that..I am running one :D I was more curious as to the reason mine is leaking so much oil can be slowed down by swapping out the old seal, that's all. But it appears as though this seal won't help the oil leak in the outlet of the air port. Oh well....

Thanks.
Howdy! Are you running it for A/C or compressed air? Is it positioned straight up, or otherwise? John
 
Yes, yes, I'm aware of that..I am running one :D I was more curious as to the reason mine is leaking so much oil can be slowed down by swapping out the old seal, that's all. But it appears as though this seal won't help the oil leak in the outlet of the air port. Oh well....

Thanks.


The front (shaft seal) is unrelated to the oil that is discharged from the outlet port. There is an oil galley that feeds oil to the front bearing and seal. If your seal or shaft are worn then it will leak oil at the front.

The oil galley can be plugged either at the front seal or from up top (top is easier). Some folks report a decrease in oil discharge after plugging the galley, others not.

I did the mod to mine and it did help some.....but keeping the crankcase oil level fairly low and keeping the compressor rpm at (high idle) seems to make the most difference.
 
Howdy,

It's fairly upright

linky
Howdy! Yup, it is. So you get oil leaking at the base of the fitting on top of the head, or at the discharge compression fitting? My York is very early model, and I had the weird sized hose barbs on both top fittings. I got an air filter for the intake and a threaded hi pressure fitting to replace those little square suckers. Works good for me. I think there was both an O ring, and a paper gasket to go under each one. John
 
Howdy! Yup, it is. So you get oil leaking at the base of the fitting on top of the head, or at the discharge compression fitting? My York is very early model, and I had the weird sized hose barbs on both top fittings. I got an air filter for the intake and a threaded hi pressure fitting to replace those little square suckers. Works good for me. I think there was both an O ring, and a paper gasket to go under each one. John


Hey John,

The oil leaks in my situation is strictly in the outlet air stream during operation. The fittings on top of the head leaked (not the head gasket) a little but that has stopped after an application of the Right Stuff.

I've plugged the oil galley as well but I'll try the "high" rpm operation as someone stated previously to see if the oil leak diminishes quite a bit. Even having two filters, I get copious amount of oil leaking into the air tank. This is no biggy but I'd like to reduce the amount of oil in my air stream as much as possible.

Thanks.
 
It's an automotive air compressor, which when functioning properly it mixes oil and refrigerant and sends it down the line. Why would you expect it to function any differently when you use it for an on board air supply?

Buy an air/oil separator and adapt it to your system.
 
Last edited:
Ali,
What kind of coalescing filter are you running? Does it use a bronze insert? From the different guys I've talked to, the bronze insert is definitely the best when it comes to reducing oil volume.
 
One of the best methods for decreasing oil/water/poop in the air supply is to have the holding tank or pressure vessel upstream of the coalescing filter. This allows separation of liquids/solids and lets the filter do what it was designed to do. Make sure any regulators are downstream of the filter.
 
It's an automotive air compressor, which when functioning properly mixes oil and refrigerant and sends it down the line. Why would you expect it to function any differently when you use it for an on board air supply?

Buy an air/oil separator and adapt it to your system.

I expect better performance because from the feedback from this board and other boards. Not sure of the reasons, but some Yorks emit less oil than others and this has nothing to do with piston rings. I suppose another trip to PicknPull for another York if I have the time is in order.

Yes, I also have two separators (per my post above). One is a brass insert, the other is a high quality (read expensive) coalescing filter.

I like Jon's idea of using the tank as a natural filter but unfortunately I have only one port (inlet/outlet) to work with so this will not work. :crybaby: I could drop the tank and weld on another bung (steel tank) and may end up doing just that.

In any case, this thread is about the shaft seal replacement, not lowering the oil content in the air so I'll keep quiet now.
 
Hey John,

The oil leaks in my situation is strictly in the outlet air stream during operation. The fittings on top of the head leaked (not the head gasket) a little but that has stopped after an application of the Right Stuff.

I've plugged the oil galley as well but I'll try the "high" rpm operation as someone stated previously to see if the oil leak diminishes quite a bit. Even having two filters, I get copious amount of oil leaking into the air tank. This is no biggy but I'd like to reduce the amount of oil in my air stream as much as possible.

Thanks.


https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/202873-anyone-done-york-210-oil-mod.html
 
I expect better performance because from the feedback from this board and other boards. Not sure of the reasons, but some Yorks emit less oil than others and this has nothing to do with piston rings. I suppose another trip to PicknPull for another York if I have the time is in order.

Yes, I also have two separators (per my post above). One is a brass insert, the other is a high quality (read expensive) coalescing filter.

I like Jon's idea of using the tank as a natural filter but unfortunately I have only one port (inlet/outlet) to work with so this will not work. :crybaby: I could drop the tank and weld on another bung (steel tank) and may end up doing just that.

In any case, this thread is about the shaft seal replacement, not lowering the oil content in the air so I'll keep quiet now.
Howdy! I think Flintknapper's comment about rpm was about keeping it down to high idle speed, but that was in regard to the front crank seal leakage. I have several bungs on my 3.5 gal holding tank, and there is one on the very bottom that I have a drain valve rigged up on. I usually blow it out every 3rd or 4th time I run th system to fill up my tires on the trail. I still don't get much blowing out, but "it's a dry heat" here in Az. I am running Campbell Hausefield compressor oil in the case on my York. Seems to do the job. I even have a water/oil seperator and an oiler in line for air tools, but I rarely use that side of the system. John
 
Howdy! I think Flintknapper's comment about rpm was about keeping it down to high idle speed, but that was in regard to the front crank seal leakage.

Well, that was 1/2 right. I do advocate keeping engine rpm down to what amounts to high idle (no more than 1,000 rpm).

But this was not to reduce front seal leakage. My experiments suggest that keeping a fairly low level of oil in the York/Tecumseh crankcase and maintaining low engine speed helps in reducing oil discharge into your lines/tank.

As long as your front seal (and shaft) are in good condition, there should be no leaking from that area regardless of rpm.

I like to keep mine at 800 rpm (engine speed, compressor has a 6" pulley). This gives the best balance of air to oil discharge rate.

I have a 5 gallon tank...and the compressor will fill it at the following rates:

0-50 psi.....20 seconds.
0-100 psi...50 seconds.
0-135 psi...73 seconds.

I just set my hand throttle and let the pressure switch do its work. I recently used it to run a powerful 1/2" impact and it never wanted for air...nor did I have to wait. I have run a nail gun off it, used it with an air blower and an air grinder (grinder kept it running but never faltered).

A higher rpm would definitely make air quicker...but you'll get a lot of oil discharge along with it. At least thats been my experience.
 

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