Yet another fj55 build thread...zzzzz

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Well plans changed and I didn't pick up the wheels yesterday. :crybaby:

Today I added some more seafoam, added some fresh gas, sprayed some carb cleaner all over the carb inside and out, changed the fuel filter, unhooked and plugged the vacuum line to the brake booster (no change), checked all the vacuum lines again, looked at the vacuum line diagram again, and somehow got it almost to idle without the choke out at all! It would idle rough but idle down for a minute berfore dieing. I could do this for about 1/2 an hour... then it started acting exactly the same! I adjusted the idle screw and fast idle screws again to get the damn thing to come back and it wouldn't.
I am frustrated by this bullsh:censor:t! :mad:

I have heard of using propane to find vacuum leaks too, does anyone know anything about that?
 
j2custom said:
I wonder if it is starving for fuel (?)
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This is why there's the little port-hole window in the float bowl of the carb. If the fuel level stays in the middle of the window while the engine is running, it's not starving for fuel.
Are you adjusting the timing at all?
Can you please put a vacuum gauge on the manifold to see if you do have a vacuum leak?
 
Sorry for the rant... I get pissed at myself that I don't know more about carbs...:rolleyes:

The sight glass indicates fuel in the carb all the time. I have revved up the engine and the fuel level stays just below 1/2.

Are you adjusting the timing at all?
Can you please put a vacuum gauge on the manifold to see if you do have a vacuum leak?
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I didn't/haven't adjusted the timing, I was thinking it was just a carb issue. But I will put a timing light on it asap. I am going to have my mechanic friend stop by (or take the truck to him) and we'll check the vacuum and diagnose the problem(s). I am ordering the FSM today in hopes that I will have it by Friday.

I noticed I have an exhaust leak under the exhaust manifold at the connection to the downtubes.

I also notice that there is something that is cycling (sounds like the smog pump?) that wasn't before. It is a low hum that sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine.

It ran well without the aircleaner cover on, and when I installed the aircleaner it was almost like it was choking it out? I don't know if that has anything to do with it but I am listing all the info I can. I drove it around my yard in the snow too to make sure the 4x4 worked. :grinpimp: So I will: check timing and hook up a vacuum gauge. Thanks again, Jeff
 
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I ordered the FSM for the engine (2F) and the FJ55...:bounce:
I am excited to have the right info, the chiltons manual leaves a lot to be desired...
 
pics of possible replacement carb?

Here are some pics of a carb for sale. I can't tell if it is the right carb for the F2 engine, 1979 but desmogged. Can you guys help identify this carb? Thanks
carb6.jpg


carb5.jpg






carb4.jpg


carb3.jpg


carb2.jpg


Any info would be helpful. Thanks again, Jeff
 
It's a single carb for sale on ebay. Far as I can tell it is the same as a trollhole carb. Just a guess though...
 
vaccum gauge to manifold where?

Can you please put a vacuum gauge on the manifold to see if you do have a vacuum leak
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Hey guys, wondering where I would hook up a vacuum gauge to the manifold? I have a vacuum gauge that fits into the small vacuum lines and I have 14-15 in some and 0 in others (likely different vacuum curcuits). Any input is appreciated. Jeff
 
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More info: I hooked up a gauge to the port on the intake manifold and it reads 14-15 in.Hg. What does this indicate? The fuel shut off solenoid clicks when I turn the key on but when the truck is running and I disconnect the power to it the truck still runs. Should it die? Thanks It requires choke to start, then when not requires atleast 1/4 carb to idle (high). If I push the choke in it dies. When I get it to idle at 1/4 choke it runs for approximately 1 minute then idles down sputtering and dies. I have to pump it 20 times (not kidding) to get it to start always requiring more choke (at least 1/2). Runs rough and clears out then runs OK. Thanks again.
 
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Can someone tell me how to get ahold of FJ40 Jim? I have emailed him 2x with no response and he doesn't take PM on this board. Thanks Any help is appreciated. Jeff
 
j2custom said:
More info: I hooked up a gauge to the port on the intake manifold and it reads 14-15 in.Hg. What does this indicate? The fuel shut off solenoid clicks when I turn the key on but when the truck is running and I disconnect the power to it the truck still runs. Should it die? Thanks It requires choke to start, then when not requires atleast 1/4 carb to idle (high). If I push the choke in it dies. When I get it to idle at 1/4 choke it runs for approximately 1 minute then idles down sputtering and dies. I have to pump it 20 times (not kidding) to get it to start always requiring more choke (at least 1/2). Runs rough and clears out then runs OK. Thanks again.
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Carb in pics looks like TH carb. It should work on your 79 2F. Has 2 barrels, vacuum secondaries
Idle solenoid should stop idle fuel w/o 12volts- Truck should have died when you disconnected the power to the solenoid. Possibly have the throttle plate open too far at idle(idle speed screw) allowing the truck to pull fuel thru the primary barrel. You should have at least 16.5 inches of manifold vacuum at idle. Back the idle speed screw out to close the plate all the way and then screw it back in to just barely make contact w/ the link and then add a quarter turn down. Turn idle mix in all the way(gently) and then back out 4 full turns. Do a lean drop adjustment, adjust timing to spec.
Carb second barrel should not be dripping fuel into the bore w/o being in WOT. Possible clogged air way internal to carb causing siphon effect. At idle fuel should only be allowed in via idle port and idle mixture screw, if it is getting in there any other way, you will have a rich condition and bad idle. Timing can affect your vacuum quality, too. Once I got my carb somewhat dialed in, I adjusted timing for max vacuum(advance for more)then retarded it to drop vacuum by 1-1 1/2 inches. HTH
 
Thank you thank you thank you thank you

LAMBCRUSHER,
THANK YOU!!!! THANK YOU!!!!THANK YOU!!!!
Seriously, thank you. I will apply all this info on Sunday.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
 
update:

Well I finally had some time in the garage. I tell you I have never worked on a more frustrating truck (or car, lawnmower, motorcycle or home appliance for that matter) in my life. I replaced the fuel cutoff solenoid. No change. I checked the original one and it clicks and the part inside moves but it moves a very small distance. I backed the fuel/air mixture screw 4 turns from all the way in. I adjusted the idle screw to 1/4 turn after contact. After warming up I screwed the idle screw in to adjust the idle up and to get it to idle. No change. I made sure the butterfly is closing all the way and even disconnected the carb linkage. Nothing. Still the same. :mad: I am going to try to adjust the timing next but how can I do that if it won't idle by itself? I may have to have the carb rebuilt. The FSM doesn't even reference the fast idle screw or the idle screw. Where is the throttle positioner adjusting screw on the 79 carb? Any thoughts? Thanks
 
Hey Pablo, who did you have do it? And how much?
 
Jim C did it. I cannot remember how much, I had him do the dizzy at the same time, so I would have to go back and look. I know it was several hundred dollars.

Mark A builds carbs as well, he is in Cali. Jim is in PA.

Can someone post up their online names? I cannot remember...
 
PabloCruise said:
Jim C did it. I cannot remember how much, I had him do the dizzy at the same time, so I would have to go back and look. I know it was several hundred dollars.

Mark A builds carbs as well, he is in Cali. Jim is in PA.

Can someone post up their online names? I cannot remember...
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I think jim is fj40jim and Mark A. is fj45swb (or something like that)?

EDIT: Mark's is 65swb45
 
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Any luck getting her to run better? I can't imagine the weather in MN is helping you. I grew up there. Sure don't miss the sub-zero standard temps in winter. The coldest I had my cruiser through in Idaho was about zero degrees. I had a Weber carb on my '72 with the 1F engine, so I couldn't help ya figure yours out. Mine would start right up after pushing the throttle to the floor once before turning the ignition and maybe a light pump or two as it turned over. Would start and run, eventually kicking up the rpms pretty high. It would only idle down if I touched the gas at that point. Wouldn't drop down on it's own. Don't know if that helps...
 
jtrocks26, I very gratefully have a heated garage that the pig is in. We got 17"+ of snow last Saturday and and some killer drifts so I have lost some motivation due to snow moving... I am planning on taking the carb off tomorrow and either having it rebuilt or buying a weber, very likely the former. Got to take some pics and video of the carb from all angles and vacuum line pics too before removal so I can reinstall correctly!:D
 
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