Yet another fj55 build thread...zzzzz

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J

j2custom

Joined
Aug 30, 2006
Threads
12
Messages
89
Location
EAGAN, MN
Hey guys! I already posted the beginning of the story on this truck in the "owners post here" section so I won't repeat that. This will focus on the build up. I picked up my '79 about a week ago and spent Saturday scrubbing the entire vehicle with scotchbrite pads to get the black mold that was growing off of it... took all day but I had help:princess::
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It looks like a new rig except for the horrible body work attempts... mostly bondo spread over rust holes. Anyway it is much better now. I happen to have a 35" mud terrain on a 15x10" wheel with 3.75" back spacing so I put it on to see how much lift/trimming I was going to need and it fit right in. No lift required:
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The bump stop is approx. 1" from touching and there is 2" to the inner fender/tire contact. The front fits with some very minor trimming at the front edge of the fender. I am stoked! Tires and wheels next, R&P and lockers, body protection etc. :D
 
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Lee777, the PO said the truck was originally green (lower part) but not the spray painted color (of course). I see a really cool color under the white (like a gold/green)? in some spots; maybe a primer. I will check the vin tag to see what color it really was. How old is your daughter now?


BTW: what is the best rust stopper/converter/preventer you guys have used? Thanks
 
is that the rim you plan on using?

Instead of cutting the front fender, any chance of moving the axle by putting new hole in springs pads?

What is your choice for PS conversion? I saw in your intro you weren't happy with the OEM PS.
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I only have one of those wheels :frown: so I am currently looking locally for 4 wheels, preferrably 15x10 aluminum with 3.75" backspacing. Then I will pick up some 35" BFG's I think. I don't/won't actually know if fender trimming will be necessary until I have the actual wheel/tire combo on :D. The PS issue was only if I did a SOA and if I don't have too I won't mess with the PS. I will run a cooler and keep it.
 
carb master in Twin Cities

Hey gang, I am going to replace all the vacuum lines on Sunday to see if I can address the non idling issue (only runs with 3/4 choke). It is the stock carb with all the emissions crap :mad: still on it. Is there someone in the Twin Cities area that anyone would recommend to rebuild the carb (if neccessary)? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Jeff :cool:
 
j2custom said:
Is there someone in the Twin Cities area that anyone would recommend to rebuild the carb (if neccessary)? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Jeff :cool:
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if you want to try to do it yourself, there are links to videos here
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/379609-aisan-carb-rebuilding-videos-2.html#post5828462
but if you want someone else to do it, then jim chenowith is your man...not in twin cities, but midwest area and he will make it work better than you could ever imagine. FJ40Jim @ aol.com
 
j2custom said:
Hey gang, I am going to replace all the vacuum lines on Sunday to see if I can address the non idling issue (only runs with 3/4 choke). It is the stock carb with all the emissions crap :mad: still on it. Is there someone in the Twin Cities area that anyone would recommend to rebuild the carb (if neccessary)? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Jeff :cool:
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Will local regs allow you to ditch all that emissions crap? If so then you can hit Trollhole up for a new carb for less than a rebuild. He advertises here on Mud so is easy to find.
 
j2custom said:
(only runs with 3/4 choke).
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nuclearlemon said:
if you want to try to do it yourself, there are links to videos here
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First, make sure your fuel cutoff solenoid is working and you don't have any obvious vacuum leaks. Either of those will make you use your choke to keep it running.
Second. It is an easy carb to rebuild.
 
Thanks for all the info/input guys. I replaced all the vacuum lines and it still runs poorly and idles only at 3/4 choke.

Will local regs allow you to ditch all that emissions crap?
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Yes, there are no emissions testing places in MN and haven't been for 10 years! :bounce: If I can remove all that stuff and get it to run right that will be my next move. I will research on MUD all that needs to be removed and start there. I will check out the vids and contact the two guys recommended and see what they say regarding rebuild/new carb. Thanks again!!:D
 
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OK i have spent the night (and some time at work today;p) searching the de-smoging deal here on MUD and I think that is the route I am going to go. I am also seriously considering having the carb rebuilt due to the smell of mediocre gas... Tried seafoam and carb cleaner... no change:mad:. I now have two questions: 1) do I de-smog the engine and then send the carb in or 2) do I send in the carb and de-smog at the same time? Do I tell the carb guy that I a de-smoging the engine? Do I get a different carb back (earlier) that is not set up for smog? (ok make that 4 questions). Any info is greatly appreciated. Jeff:D Anybody that wants or needs the emission stuff let me know...
 
Pighead said:
First, make sure your fuel cutoff solenoid is working and you don't have any obvious vacuum leaks...
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Do these before doing anything else.

Take small steps.

If the carb does need rebuilt, Jim will ask you questions about how you want to run your rig before rebuilding. He will rebuild yours and send it back to you.
 
Lil'John said:
To add, even if you pull the smog stuff off, it would be in your best interest to save it.

There keeps being rumbles that California's style smog rules going national:eek:
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to hell with that
 
First, make sure your fuel cutoff solenoid is working
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Still diagnosing idle issue. Maybe this is a silly question but can I pick one of those up at the auto parts store or do I need to source it elsewhere? I am quite sure that part is not functioning, there is no noise upon turning the key on before starting and in the #2 barrel (away from valve cover) the fuel is dripping in occassionally... but not as it should? It is plugged in and I will check to see if it is getting power. Is that potentially a different issue than the fuel cutoff solenoid? Any info is greatly appreciated. :p
 
j2custom said:
Lee777, the PO said the truck was originally green (lower part) but not the spray painted color (of course). I see a really cool color under the white (like a gold/green)? in some spots; maybe a primer. I will check the vin tag to see what color it really was. How old is your daughter now?

BTW: what is the best rust stopper/converter/preventer you guys have used? Thanks
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She is about 4 and half years old. Last week she helped me tear off the roof insulation under the headliner (wearing a dust mask and safety glasses of course) (lol)

The only one Ive worked with is POR15 and i've been happy with the results. The only complaint i have is if it will be uv exposed, it will need a topcoat because it breaks down somewhat and turns glossy black to dusty gray. If exposed, will need tie-coat primer on top of it before topcoating, or Ive heard you can go right to top coat if you do it when the POR15 is still tacky. I often use the POR15 marine clean to degrease and the metal ready to neutralize/remove rust before por15.

Look forward to the build!

Lee
 
Lee777, good luck with your build too! :D My daughter just turned 4 and likes to help papa...
 
Lee777 and PabloCruise that is awesome!

I managed to only start the truck this weekend. The fuel cutoff solenoid appears to be clicking when I turn the key to the on position but not "start". It won't idle down still (but I haven't worked on it at all either) so I will check for a vacuum leak some more and go from there. I wonder if it is starving for fuel (?) or the fuel tank is dirty... plugged line? Anyway I am picking up some new wheels :D on Saturday from another board member and am very excited. It may take me longer than I would like to get it on the road but it will be worth it.
 
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