Would you buy this 87?+PICS+

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cant be a carrier bearing making noise. Only extended cabs have those.
For 800 bucks, its a score. rust-smush. if any of the rusty parts break, its excuse to beef it up anymore.
buy it.
buy it.
buy it.
buy it.
 
buy it.
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I did, I pick it up tomorrow afternoon.:cool:
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A couple questions.
What year rears will bolt in the 87 ??
I used to have an 82, I put 5:29's in it. I think I might still have the original gears out of the 82.
Will they work in an 87??
I think I would rather find a whole rear and just swap it right now. I know there is a 82 or 83 longbed rotting away down the road from my house. I think I could get it cheap but need to know if I could swap the whole rear axle into my 87 without any mods.

Thanks
Aaron
 
If by "rear" you mean the differential, then yes this will swap in no problem. If you still have the gears from your '82, they should fit in your differential, but it would cost a lot more to have them installed than it would be to just get another entire differential. Open 4 cyl diffs with 4.10s are cheap, I've had to give them away just to get rid of them sometimes.

I wouldn't bother with that other truck, if all you need is a differential. The rear axle is different, narrower and the brakes are not as good as what you have now (drums are smaller on the older trucks).

Before you start buying parts to fix it, find out what's wrong with it now. Then go from there. It might just be a U-joint in the driveshaft.
 
Thanks for the info.

Yeah I'm gonna check it out first but it doesn't sound too good, Its not a U-joint, I hope its just the bearing behind the yoke.
If I still have the gears it won't cost much to fix. A freind of mine knows how to swap em and adjust the backlash and all that stuff. It might cost me a case of :beer: . :)
 
The IFS front gears are 7.5 inch, and gears for an 8 inch diff (Front and rear on solid axle trucks) will not work.

Is it me, or are these tires pointed funny?

TOY2-26-07012.jpg
 
Your right, it does look funky.
It looks like the left front tire is still somewhat straight. I think its just the picture though. Look at the pic I took of the rear from the rear, both wheels are turned to the right. I will double check it when I pick it up tomorrow BEFORE I give him the $$$$.;)

What could/would it be if it is out of wack??
 
Tracker said:
I bring it home thursday night. The first thing will be to fix the rear and then I gotta get tires. The 35's that are on it are worn pretty good and they are dry rotted pretty bad. Once thats done then its time to rip and tare.
Someone earlier said to lock 1 hub and turn the DS, I did that and it would not spin.
You guys like EFI better than a Carb?? Why?
Anyone close by have any tires 4-sale....cheap?:eek:
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IF, you did this with the TC in 2Hi (will NOT work in neutral or 4wd)and indeed it did not spin, I'd say you got somethin there, what it is I can not comment on :)
But none the less a traction aiding device.


Worst case cenario is somebody welded the stock front diff.

Best case senario is somebody put 4:88's with a pocket locker, Detroit locker, or a Detroit TrueTrac:) in the front, either way some one did something to it
consider this when you "swap" the rear.

IOW check the front or rear so you know exactaly what to replace it with.

Ask others but I am sure you can turn the front shaft and count how many times the (C.V) shaft turns this will give you an idea(done accuratly exactaly) what gear is in the front.
 
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toyotaman22r said:
efi has 20 more hp and it'll run at steeper angles. Have you thought about an sas? I dont know if i missed it in earlier posts but...the truck would be a good candidate. Also maybe a flat bed??? its up to you. just my 2 cents.
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IF, it's EFI you got a sweat deal.(and transfer case)



EFI motors last longer, waaay longer than carbies
better fuel economy & power


Before any one asks it runs at it's optimum mixture at all times, try that with a carburator.

Here it comes I can feel it..............
 
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tntoyota said:
Before any one asks it runs at it's optimum mixture at all times, try that with a carburator.

Here it comes I can feel it..............
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Negative Ghostrider,

It tries to run at optimum and misses the mark constantly. Little rich, little lean, little rich, etc....
 
KliersLC said:
It tries to run at optimum and misses the mark constantly. Little rich, little lean, little rich, etc....
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But at least (6/10th of a secound) it's adjusting or compensating.

You'd look real good with a screwdriver under the hood driving around all the time doin that ;)


So that's why all those carbie cylinder walls allways wear better than the EFI's
And the ring's
 
IF, you did this with the TC in 2Hi (will NOT work in neutral or 4wd)and indeed it did not spin, I'd say you got somethin there, what it is I can not comment on :)
But none the less a traction aiding device.
Click to expand...

I had it in 2hi. :cool:

Ask others but I am sure you can turn the front shaft and count how many times the (C.V) shaft turns this will give you an idea(done accuratly exactaly) what gear is in the front.
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You mark and count the drive shaft rev. PER one rev. of the tire.
Is that correct??

I'm thinking it has lower gears. When the guy at the lot tried to pull out of the snow bank it was parked in, the left rear tire was on pavement and started spinning with little effort. I locked the hubs and he put it in 4hi and it walked right out.
I'm thinking its nothing major, I hope its just the pinion bearing, so I hope it has 5:29's:cool: .
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Its not EFI. I was kinda glad it was not. I'm older and grew up tinkering with my cars and trucks. That was the mid 80's and computers were around, but I had older carbed vehicles. :cool:
I have a few Eclipses and hate working on the because of all the little sensers and crap. I just sold my GSX (awd turbo) and kept the RS (non-turbo w/NOS) and a parts car. This past summer I had the motors out of the GSX and the RS, that was not fun at all. :frown:

Here is my 67 dodge dart GT, 340 4-speed, 2 carter 4-barrels.
fc57c5fa.jpg


Here is a pic of the GSX and RS.
I hate computers.:eek:
ef3c1e18.jpg
 
02-12-07 12:44 AM
tntoyota put a 20R head on it, header, carb? On webber snorkle is cheap. Dead reliable....cheap.....(20/22R) D.U.I Davis Unified Ignition . Fuel consumption? Weight? Range? (MPG) Cam it. Have i broke a $1,000 yet? IMHO @150 H.P, stroker crank, You said 22r right? Shall I continue?
IH8W8
 
I drove it home tonight.:D
What a mistake though.:frown:

It was only 6 or 8 miles, BUT half way home 3rd gear stopped working :doh: Then I was about 1&1/2 miles from the driveway and the rear quit turning, not that big of a deal it was shot anyway. I had to lock the hubs and drive home in front wheel drive.
It looks like I need a tranny now too. I guess I should have rollbacked it. :frown:
Its in the garage and I'll mess with it tomorrow.
 
Doh!!

Well, if you can wait a month or so for me to get my R151F rebuilt and installed, I'll have a nice W56 available.
 
Bah! No worries man! We'll get you through this! Skipping 3rd will get you around for a while. Plus KLF has already got you covered there! :cheers:

I'd suggest you pull the rear apart and see what's going on.

Did the rear make any bad noises before it gave up?
 
Did the rear make any bad noises before it gave up
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Yeah it was binding and clunking pretty bad, but is sounded that way before I left the lot. It reminded me of a spooled rear, the binding was worse around corners.
I posted a want ad on a PA based board and someone contacted me and said they have a complete rear off an 87 4-runner for sale. He said it has 4:10's, I thought 4-runners had 4:56's. :confused:
 
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