Woody (12 Viewers)

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Deadmau5 smell is going away, once I have a chance to shampoo the carpets it should be much better.

Got a late start and only had about 90 min to work. Valve cover gasket pulled, valves adjusted. Looks pretty good under there, no sludge at all. Appeared like the valves were maybe adjusted once before, gasket cracked into pieces as I pulled it. Power steering pulley wobbles even under tension, yikes.

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Underneath. No scraping necessary.

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I also pulled the flywheel cover to mark the 7* ball for timing and TDC with a paint pen, and while it does only look like an oil pan gasket issue, I don't want to get too excited yet. Up tomorrow - power steering pump, rear output seal, oil pan gasket if I get that far, and lots more cleaning. Hot out this weekend.
 
Is the pulley bent or the PS shaft loose? PS pump leaking?
 
PS pump is leaking bad. Pulley doesn't look bent but will know once I have it out. Figured it was the shaft or bushing that was worn out.

Smog pump got doused. Hoping I can resurrect it.

EDIT - and it's out. Total mess, had to remove the bracket with the PS pump along with the smog pump. Smog pump pipes looked good and clear, but thinking I should probably get it rebuilt anyway.
 
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Congrats on the rig. Looks like a great find and your are breathing new life into it.

My truck had those same wheels when I got it back in 2010.

Check if the galley plug has been done on the head.

I’m north of LA in the Thousand Oaks area if you ever need a hand or tool access.
 
NookShneer said:
Congrats on the rig. Looks like a great find and your are breathing new life into it.

My truck had those same wheels when I got it back in 2010.

Check if the galley plug has been done on the head.

I’m north of LA in the Thousand Oaks area if you ever need a hand or tool access.
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Awesome, thanks! TO isn't too far, great area. The wheels are very retro and growing on me, I took that windshield banner off though. This one was out in Frazier Park, kind of a haul but explains all the trash under the hood and in the truck.

It doesn't look like the galley plug was done. I probably have to get after that.

Today was just cleaning a bunch of grime from parts and the frame, and pulling the rear driveshaft to access the output seal. Even though the smog pump puts out some air, I'm getting it rebuilt anyway as it was soaked in ATF from the PS pump. I also managed to find a couple of check valves on Rockauto, one which should be a direct replacement for the one on the rail. Dumped the oil but ran out of juice as it warmed up, I'll pull the pan later.

Also needs new low pressure lines for the power steering, which basically cracked into pieces as I pulled the pump. Just adding to the list.
 
majdomo said:
Awesome, thanks! TO isn't too far, great area. The wheels are very retro and growing on me, I took that windshield banner off though. This one was out in Frazier Park, kind of a haul but explains all the trash under the hood and in the truck.

It doesn't look like the galley plug was done. I probably have to get after that.

Today was just cleaning a bunch of grime from parts and the frame, and pulling the rear driveshaft to access the output seal. Even though the smog pump puts out some air, I'm getting it rebuilt anyway as it was soaked in ATF from the PS pump. I also managed to find a couple of check valves on Rockauto, one which should be a direct replacement for the one on the rail. Dumped the oil but ran out of juice as it warmed up, I'll pull the pan later.

Also needs new low pressure lines for the power steering, which basically cracked into pieces as I pulled the pump. Just adding to the list.
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hey did you buy it off a guy named Richard?
 
majdomo said:
No - it belonged to a guy called Todd. Was his mom's truck, literal grocery getter.
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OK, I had a neighbor here up the street who sold his house and moved to Frasier Park area. I remember him saying he has a 60 series up there. just wondering. keep up the good work.
 
Been slow going as I've been gathering parts and dealing with some life stuff. Picked up the rebuilt smog pump this morning, waiting on a BVSV and a VSV to show up early next week.

Started scraping the tint off with a hair dryer and a razor blade, works for the most part but not the fastest process. Finding that the less bubbled and cracked the better, as it tends to come off in one big sheet rather than a bunch of tiny flakes. Unfortunately it's mostly bubbled and cracked, especially the rear window with the defroster. That's going to be fun, planning to get some plastic razor blades for that. Hitting the cleared window with 3M adhesive remover to take off the old glue. Looking better already.
 
Oil pan gasket. Worst. Job. Ever.


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Pan itself is in decent shape, but the gasket was completely ossified and frozen solid to the block. Took me a day to get it to pop off, repairing a small dent in the pan that I made with the bottle jack and a 2x4, and then spent most of today scraping and cleaning and reinstalling. Every time I do this, I swear up and down it's the last time, and it's just not. Hoping this is the problem. Subsequent pulling of the pan will be much easier, however.

I've also noticed that pressure in the gas tank that builds up during the day is forcing gas past the diaphragm in the fuel pump. I opened up the tank to a lot of whooshing, new charcoal canister is coming tomorrow as a result.
 
MWM1 said:
I swapped the hoses left to right on the charcoal canister and the enormous pressure was gone!
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Nice. I will have to pass CA smog, they will check this and want it to be hooked up correctly. The charcoal canister I bought was the same one from the FJ62, should fit fine but will need to review the routing for the hoses.
 
Swapping the Purge/Tank hoses on the charcoal can nipples takes the tank line off the one with frozen check valve. Easy way to relieve built up pressure in tank.

Make sure your purge valve is working when you swap out the canister.
 
Spike Strip said:
Swapping the Purge/Tank hoses on the charcoal can nipples takes the tank line off the one with frozen check valve. Easy way to relieve built up pressure in tank.

Make sure your purge valve is working when you swap out the canister.
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Excellent. I just left the cap slightly open to keep it from building up pressure, but swapping might be better in keeping the vapors in the canister? I checked the purge valve and it's working fine (this is the external one just next to the canister with the solenoid, correct?)
 
Yes, just swap hoses back before smog test.

Yes, purge valve next to can.
 
Parts are here, tint is scraped and windows looking way better. This took hours with a razor blade and a hair dryer but think it was worth it. Plan is to get it ready for smog by the weekend.

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EDIT - parts all installed, need to get more ATF for the power steering but that's it. Plan is to go through the emissions FSM tomorrow afternoon and run it down for smog on Saturday, assuming everything checks out. It fired right up and idled nice at 600-650. I need to check timing too.

90% de-moused but there are still some areas I need to get after, like under the front seats. I also did not baseline the cooling system yet. I know there's some duplication of effort with that but wanted to get it smogged first, and it looks like someone was on it just before it was parked.
 
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Timing checked and set, idle speed turned up a bit, dumped the old gas and replaced it with fresh stuff, replaced the fuel filter, charcoal canister, etc. and it's running... sort of ok, sort of not. It's fine enough to finish out the checks on the emissions systems, but driving it around it sort of bogs and has random flat spots, and idles slightly rough even for a 2F. I ran it up to about 45 on a main road and it died while coming to a stop. It's also pulling 14" at 7* BTDC idle (we are at 2200') even after the valve adjustment, which could be better. It also hasn't run this much in 25 years, so that could be part of it.

I have to guess that the carb needs a rebuild, it's got a miss on one of the cylinders (will check distributor and cap), or there's a vacuum leak somewhere. Thought it was old gas, and while I'm sure that helps, it wasn't the silver bullet I thought it'd be. I'm going to finish the emissions checks tomorrow, then if I can't find a vacuum leak or distributor issue, I'll take the carb down to Mark @65swb45 for a rebuild.
 
Bit of a thrash today - pulled the carb for a cleanup (not rebuild) to see if that would help, which it sort of did but there's still a bit of work to do. There was a ton of varnish and trash in the bowl, jets, and all the little passages. I got most of it but it's just a stopgap. I did NOT pull the cap on the idle mixture screw, and after running it up and down the freeway and around town a few miles, I think that needs to come out so I can set lean drop. It runs just a little too lean and I'm just old school..

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Emissions checking continues, managed to break one of the VCVs while trying to check. Ugh. Hate those things. The AI bypass is running at idle, which doesn't seem right - will have to do a more detailed check on that tomorrow.

EDIT - also pulled the dizzy cap and all looked fine there, if anything may have been replaced just before it was parked. Cleaned off the rotor contacts and sent it. The more I drive it around the neighborhood the better it seems to get - got it to idle smooth down around 750 without wanting to croak at a stop sign, so that's good. May delay pulling that plug, idk.
 
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Emission check ongoing. AI system check is incomplete - I can pull and hold vacuum manually on the ASV which reroutes the air away from the air cleaner, but both VSVs are toast - resistance is way out of spec and the system is aiming the air at the air cleaner at idle (should be exhaust, I think).

Anyway - take a look at this connection on the left, which is, um, not there. Mickey got to the wires here, PO tried to repair, and it just busted off when I pulled the "plug" or what's left of it. Wires down below that are a little munched but probably salvageable.

So looks like I'm in the market for a couple of early 60 VSVs - if anyone has them from a desmog let me know! Continuing on with the rest of it...

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Unless you can find good used cheap, you can get various Japan made Aisin VCVs on RockAuto that will work well for the same price as used. But you'll also have to get a pig-tail connector. ToyotaMatt will know which one. I have the part # somewhere, for the generic pigtail that are cheap on ebay.

If I can find the Toyota part number (I've posted on MUD before) there's a substitute still available that has the built in lead, but you'll have to de-pin the 'T' connector and reuse the round green one.

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