Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter ginmtb
- Start date
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actually it was probably easier to cover the whole flap then make a perimeter gasket.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #742
Okay ready for paint! Metal is rust treated. Unpainted metal top will get silver paint. Even dipped the little clip that holds the cable housing in Mastercoat silver!
And scraped all the dead foam off the firewall.
@SSCR decided I couldn't wait for the paint to arrive since it has to go via ground so I'm going with this (charcoal grey):
And scraped all the dead foam off the firewall.
@SSCR decided I couldn't wait for the paint to arrive since it has to go via ground so I'm going with this (charcoal grey):
That looks like a great match! Cant wait to see it finished.
nice job with the heater blower that thing looks awesome. What tape did you use around the motor housing? You need a sticker for that radiator and booster
Outstanding work, Mike!!
It won't be long before you buy another TLC to do a full frame off...
It won't be long before you buy another TLC to do a full frame off...
Are you sure it's a red hose and not an orange hose? I have this hose that is of similar color:
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #753
Got home a bit early and got a chance to do some work. I had ordered something from cruisercorps but needed a bit more to get the free shipping at the time. So I ordered a fuel filter. Figured wouldn't hurt to have one of those. Well decided to swap it out, and I mounted it to the spot it was supposed to be (it was just floating before). Looked weird with that big old bracket built into it.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #754
I am going to replace the fuel hoses while I'm at it. Replaced pretty much all the other rubber in the engine compartment seems prudent.
Also, does anyone know how to properly cap a hard fuel line? That is the return line in the picture that I no longer need. But I want to keep the hard line in there just in case I go back to a return line.
Also, does anyone know how to properly cap a hard fuel line? That is the return line in the picture that I no longer need. But I want to keep the hard line in there just in case I go back to a return line.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #758
Hey so I found what appears to be a good solution for plugging the fuel hoses:
http://beverageequipmentcompany.com/check-valves/39451-plug-hose-barb-14-stainless-steel.html
Cheap too! Shipping will cost more than the few I need.
http://beverageequipmentcompany.com/check-valves/39451-plug-hose-barb-14-stainless-steel.html
Cheap too! Shipping will cost more than the few I need.
You didn't realize you're actually building a 1:1 scale model kit?
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
- Thread starter
- #760
Not sure what I did wrong or what bad is going to happen but the TRE removal was stupid easy. I waited a long time and hit it up pretty good with penetrant. Certainly that helped. I read so many horror stories that I kept putting this part of the project off. And then easy peasy.
Will clean up the rods and coat with POR15 taking great care not to get it on the threads. And then I believe I need to paint the 555 TREs as they're raw metal from what people have said.
So close to getting this thing back running again... Yet so far. I plan on having it towed out to Georg (@orangefj45) to put the finishing touches on it and to dial it in. Unfortunately that won't happen until the week of 7/27.
Will clean up the rods and coat with POR15 taking great care not to get it on the threads. And then I believe I need to paint the 555 TREs as they're raw metal from what people have said.
So close to getting this thing back running again... Yet so far. I plan on having it towed out to Georg (@orangefj45) to put the finishing touches on it and to dial it in. Unfortunately that won't happen until the week of 7/27.
