- Thread starter
- #21
I just used wheel bearing grease but it was the window runs that fixed it. Do it! Fast and smooth.
Window channel/guide install
- Thread starter Biga27110
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I just used wheel bearing grease but it was the window runs that fixed it. Do it! Fast and smooth.
Sounds good! So just yank the old out and press new ones in..... Even I can do that.
- Thread starter
- #23
Ya its pretty easy and straight forward. If you take out the glass DONT MOVE THE WINDOW.
Frugal option is to remove runs soak them and clean them with toothbrush.
I have cleaned the runs a few times with dry silicone spray and it helps for a few months. Yesterday I changed out the window Channel run (Toyota part 68151-60032 ~$70). I followed the Door Panel Removed Instructions and then the information here. It was really easy once I was able to find the the access hole for the front window retaining bolt. I had a helper so we didn't damage the glass. once it was time to remove it. Just went slow so the new run was in there good and secure, no special tools needed other than patience - small hands helped. Just followed the instructions in reverse to put it all back together. Window is about 25% faster in operating and very smooth. No more slowing down in the middle of the upper movement or speeding up near the bottom in downward operation!
Thank you all for the instructions and guidance here!
Thank you all for the instructions and guidance here!
loeky
SILVER Star
Hey @Biga27110 - to clarify install of the channel runs, you simply pry out the old run and replace/insert the new? I've the parts on the way and will be happy for a simple install.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yes very straight forward. Hardest part was removing the windows which wasn't hard just uncomfortable. DO NOT MOVE THE WINDOW WITH THE WINDOW OUT. In other words DONT press the window switch up and down. If you do you have to do the reset procedure which requires removing the window regulator.
Its been a while since I did my install and the window is working great i recommend it.
loeky
SILVER Star
Fantastic. Thanks for this.
After doing a search this one of the only threads I found about window issues on lx470s. Thought I'd bring it back to see if anyone has had issues like mine.
All my other 3 windows work great in normal and auto except for the drivers front which after being lowered will only raise about 5 inches. Then after each tap of the switch itll go up another couple inches at a time. Then I have to wait about 15 sec before trying again or it wont move much at all.
I've tried a couple used master switches and a new one off the Bay and I get the same results with a little variation here or there. I was looking at replacing the motor and regulator but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and found a fix first
All my other 3 windows work great in normal and auto except for the drivers front which after being lowered will only raise about 5 inches. Then after each tap of the switch itll go up another couple inches at a time. Then I have to wait about 15 sec before trying again or it wont move much at all.
I've tried a couple used master switches and a new one off the Bay and I get the same results with a little variation here or there. I was looking at replacing the motor and regulator but wanted to see if anyone else has had this problem and found a fix first
- Thread starter
- #29
I would probably change the regulator/motor. If you want to do the pinch reset procedure you could try that before buying anything.
I was thinking it wouldn't hurt to reset it and see if it helps. Thanks
To be honest that reset procedure looks a bit complicated. Was just reading it. I think replacing my globes will be an easier job
...
So was I seeing it right that you get the door panel off and start by disconnecting the window motor? Then
((b) Connect the power window motor and power window switch to wire harness of the vehicle.) That b. line confused me
...So was I seeing it right that you get the door panel off and start by disconnecting the window motor? Then
((b) Connect the power window motor and power window switch to wire harness of the vehicle.) That b. line confused me
- Thread starter
- #32
From what I remember it was very easy just a pain to take it all out.To be honest that reset procedure looks a bit complicated. Was just reading it. I think replacing my globes will be an easier job
So was I seeing it right that you get the door panel off and start by disconnecting the window motor? Then
((b) Connect the power window motor and power window switch to wire harness of the vehicle.) That b. line confused me
B just says once you pulled it all out reconnect the motor and the switch so you could technically run the motor if you wanted.
Last edited:
Red Beard
Cruisin'
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2007
- Threads
- 113
- Messages
- 1,083
- Location
- Kennett Square, PA
- Website
- cruisin4parts.com
Did this today! Can’t wait to test out the wind noise now. Also I found out I have after market speakers and tweeters.
Had to do some figuring out how to get the glass out. Here are some photos from my install.
Here’s what the driver side glass looks like removed. Notice on the bottom there are 2 white clips in the front and back. These are where the glass attaches to the motor arms.
So with the window slightly up and the plastic removed, you can see the rear bolt in this window.
And here’s the forward bolt. You want to move until this lines up. Then you can unbolt both. To remove, I had to push the motor arm off of the glass plastic. The motor arms threads actually stick out for the glass to seats into. So you can just yank out the glass once you unbolt it.
Then just press the moulding into the corner and feed it down the sides. Make sure the corners match up perfect. I had wind noise from my old mouldings because they got tired and came off the corner edge (see below)
Before
Before
After! Seats nicely into the corner. There is some cleaning to do but it already looks so much better.
Now I was going to replace my belt moulding while I was at it, but I somehow ordered the FJ80 version instead of the 100 version. If you have an 80, it’s for sale in the classifieds. If your belt mouldings are old and tired like mine, you may want to replace them aside from the aesthetic reasons. It seems like water can get in there. My door has rust forming on the bottom. I see now it’s probably from water getting in there. Here’s the inside of my door below.
Anyway, I hope these photos help others who have never taken the door panel off and taken the glass out!
Had to do some figuring out how to get the glass out. Here are some photos from my install.
Here’s what the driver side glass looks like removed. Notice on the bottom there are 2 white clips in the front and back. These are where the glass attaches to the motor arms.
So with the window slightly up and the plastic removed, you can see the rear bolt in this window.
And here’s the forward bolt. You want to move until this lines up. Then you can unbolt both. To remove, I had to push the motor arm off of the glass plastic. The motor arms threads actually stick out for the glass to seats into. So you can just yank out the glass once you unbolt it.
Then just press the moulding into the corner and feed it down the sides. Make sure the corners match up perfect. I had wind noise from my old mouldings because they got tired and came off the corner edge (see below)
Before
Before
After! Seats nicely into the corner. There is some cleaning to do but it already looks so much better.
Now I was going to replace my belt moulding while I was at it, but I somehow ordered the FJ80 version instead of the 100 version. If you have an 80, it’s for sale in the classifieds. If your belt mouldings are old and tired like mine, you may want to replace them aside from the aesthetic reasons. It seems like water can get in there. My door has rust forming on the bottom. I see now it’s probably from water getting in there. Here’s the inside of my door below.
Anyway, I hope these photos help others who have never taken the door panel off and taken the glass out!
Does the window channel you referenced go down inside the door or just on the upper frame? I feel like mine is binding lower down in the door. Thanks for the info!
James Bentley
SILVER Star
Inside the door
The run channel supports the glass from "all the way up" to "all the way down" (and everywhere in between)
Awesome. Thanks for confirming! @James Bentley
Did this resolve the wind noise? I purchased a 2002 LC a couple months ago. The wind noise on the highway is annoying, and the window moldings look like the “before” pictures posted.
Red Beard
Cruisin'
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2007
- Threads
- 113
- Messages
- 1,083
- Location
- Kennett Square, PA
- Website
- cruisin4parts.com
Ohhh yeahhh! Definitely want to bump this thread up, as this is such a great fix. So happy to find this thread and yes, I had a whistling high pitched wind noise RIGHT by my ear that was driving me a little crazy. And yes, this totally fixed it! Hooray!!!
Parts are not that expensive, and with a little patience the door panel removal isn’t that bad.
One note for a part you can skip: When I was ordering the channels, I also noticed that you can replace the part that runs along the bottom of the window where it enters the door. The part is called: WEATHERSTRIP ASSY, FRONT DOOR GLASS, INNER LH. It wasn’t too much more to add this to my partsouq order so I changed those as well. Can’t say this really helped anything though. (Although the new ones seem to butt up a little tighter to the glass and are more flexible.) Anyway, just wanted to give the heads up you can probably skip this part in case you were wondering the same thing.
Big thanks to those that figured this out! Probably improved wind noise by at least 2-4 db in that area.
Parts are not that expensive, and with a little patience the door panel removal isn’t that bad.
One note for a part you can skip: When I was ordering the channels, I also noticed that you can replace the part that runs along the bottom of the window where it enters the door. The part is called: WEATHERSTRIP ASSY, FRONT DOOR GLASS, INNER LH. It wasn’t too much more to add this to my partsouq order so I changed those as well. Can’t say this really helped anything though. (Although the new ones seem to butt up a little tighter to the glass and are more flexible.) Anyway, just wanted to give the heads up you can probably skip this part in case you were wondering the same thing.
Big thanks to those that figured this out! Probably improved wind noise by at least 2-4 db in that area.
